Thin red wire coming out of starter solenoid
#1
Thin red wire coming out of starter solenoid
To give a little background, my FB decided to stop starting (not even a click, which made me think of a bad solenoid) about a week ago and I was just able to take a look at it now. I got under the car hoping to remove the starter and saw a thin red wire coming out of the solenoid and just hanging off (so I'm assuming it got disconnected). I've looked at the wiring diagram and haven't been able to find where this wire connects to. There was a harness connector hanging off by the side but I didn't want to fry anything so I decided to ask you guys before I tried to connect anything especially since though it looked like the wires would fit, the harness connector had a plastic cover whereas the wire hanging off the solenoid just had a female spade connector. Any ideas?
Luis
Luis
#4
Black/yellow (B/w for auto tranny) wire with plastic covered female spade terminal is power from ignition switch. It clips onto bare male spade terminal on starter. When this wire falls off, no click, no start. Red wire is not stock. Which terminal is it connected to?
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#10
Can you see where it goes? On the 12A cars, there is usually a fusible link on that side that goes to a LW wire and then to the hot start assist relay. My guess is the fusible link blew or was damaged and the PO couldn't find a replacement, so they just used wire instead.
See if it connects to a blue wire with a white stripe.
See if it connects to a blue wire with a white stripe.
#16
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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From: Chino Hills, CA
Sounds like sombody was bypassing the temperature-dependent activation of the HSA; wired like that, the HSA would activate every time the starter did.
Betcha you've got (or at one time had) a bad temp sensor... or some other fault in the HSA drive circuit (ECU, relay, etc.)
Betcha you've got (or at one time had) a bad temp sensor... or some other fault in the HSA drive circuit (ECU, relay, etc.)
#17
If he disconnects it, the hot start assist will not work. That terminal gets juice only when cranking, so when cranking and the engine is warm enough, the hot start assist pulls the throttle open a bit. There is normally a fusible link there, but I suspect that it got blown or was damaged during a starter replacement or something.
#18
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From: Chino Hills, CA
Yeah, but wired like that, the HSA will be pulled in on crank whether the engine is hot or cold. It's bypassing the logic, right?
That would make cold starts harder, I'd think; throttle open whether you want it or not.
That would make cold starts harder, I'd think; throttle open whether you want it or not.
#20
However, I see where some confusion could come from. It turns out the the wire from the starter fusible link and the wire from the water temp switch are both LW (blue w/ white stripe). I assume that he has it connected to the one that is supposed to go to the starter terminal.
Simple enough to test:
- crank the car (cold) and have someone see if the hot start assist motor moves
- repeat with a hot engine
#21
Well thanks everybody for the food for thought and I just want to confirm that Kent was right. The red wire indeed plugs into the HSA relay and the water temperature switch IS plugged into the other LW wire. On a starter related note, the long bolt on the starter is stuck in there and will not budge even after soaking it overnight with PB blaster (did this twice in a row) and its starting to round off. My neighbourhood shop said they'll remove the bolt for free as long as I provide them with a replacement. Are the 2 bolts the same? Meaning if I remove the short bolt can I take it to the hardware store and match the long bolt to it? If not does anyone know the size of the long bolt?
Thanks in advance,
Luis
Thanks in advance,
Luis
#22
Luis, the bolts are different. order a new one from the dealer, they're cheap enough. i can provide you with the part number if need be. try a little heat on the bolt where it threads into the starter. be careful not to overheat the starter ear and melt it. heat it up, turn the bolt clockwise to break the corrosion and then once it breaks free, loosen it out.