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Terrible road noise

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Old 10-03-05, 01:18 PM
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Terrible road noise

Okay, so I went out the other day and hopped in my car and started it, went through my little warm-up time and then took off. Well, while I was reversing down my insanely long driveway, i heard a click, click, click coming from what sounds like the rear-right wheel. I ignored it for the time and took off in 1st, then i heard it again, but this time it was a lot faster sounding. When I hit about 20 mph the click goes away and it turns into this hideous sound that sounds like something rubbing on the axle or something, and the sound it makes is directly related to the speed i'm going, the faster im going the faster the sound sounds, the slower im going, the slower it sounds, and if i'm going slow enough it clicks.

anyone have any ideas?

I looked under there but didnt see anything that would be causing the noise, nothing sitting on the axle, nothing sitting on the driveshaft, and If it was my read-end i'd really notice other things as well.
Old 10-03-05, 01:53 PM
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Rear wheel bearing going?
Old 10-03-05, 01:58 PM
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^ what he said.
Old 10-03-05, 03:20 PM
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Rear wheel bearing is toast Wait until it gets really bad and sounds the gravel bouncing around inside the rear end. Dont ask me how I remember that
Old 10-03-05, 05:01 PM
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is quite serious btw it could seize
Old 10-04-05, 12:19 AM
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Or maybe one of your rear brakes are dragging a bit...
Old 10-04-05, 12:33 AM
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anyone have a rough estimate on repair/replacement costs?

and anything I can check to make sure thats what it is? Would it be pulling or anything like that?

I think I see some drag marks in my right rear brake, But i'm not sure if that is just normal wear or not.
Old 10-04-05, 01:30 AM
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one last question, is it a lot of work to do? If so then I will probably just take it somewhere and have them do it.
Old 10-04-05, 01:32 AM
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While driving slowly and listening to the noise, jerk the wheel side to side and see if the noise changes. Change = wheel bearing, no change = brakes?
Old 10-04-05, 01:38 AM
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1983 GSL, 1987 323 "GX"

 
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I thought of brakes before I thought of wheel bearings myself. . . .
Old 10-04-05, 01:24 PM
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But if it is the rear-wheel will the noise still change?

Either way I will try it when I leave for class in about an hour. My neighors sure are going to be looking at me weird.

But I'm going to do it at 80 MPH on the highway too, see if I scare anyone around me. not really
Old 10-04-05, 02:00 PM
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If it is a wheel bearing, then the noise should change as you heave from side to side. Just make sure you're not going too fast for this test, its not necessary. Can you tell if your parking brake is releasing fully?
Old 10-04-05, 05:41 PM
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yeah, my parking brake releases all the way, i can let it off on even the slightest hill and start rolling.

Well, I did your little test the nosie didn't change at all, and I got to talk to my dad about it and he said I need to check my brake pads, something about the rivits in the break pad if it wears down so far. And I noticed some grooves in my rotor. So this weekend i'm going to change my breakpads and probably have my rotors turned and see if that fixes the noise, if not, i hate my car for another couple of weeks.

i really dont want to take the axel out then take it somewhere to have the bearing pulled then repressed then packed with grease then put it all back together, but, ya gotta go what ya gotta do.

but i did try the test at several different speeds, i tried it at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25 and 40 and it stayed the same it didnt change.
Old 10-04-05, 05:48 PM
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Ummm, right now I am taking a mechanics course at my local college. A couple weeks ago we were shown how to repack bearings and stuff. You really should not have to get the bearing pulled and repressed. You only need to inspect it for damage, then clean it with varsol, and repack it... It really should not be that much of a job.
Old 10-05-05, 02:23 AM
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Ummm, right now I am taking a mechanics course at my local college. A couple weeks ago we were shown how to repack bearings and stuff. You really should not have to get the bearing pulled and repressed. You only need to inspect it for damage, then clean it with varsol, and repack it... It really should not be that much of a job.
Yeah, but that is if the bearing is still intact. The bearings are pressed into place. If the bearing is toast, the remaining bearing needs to be removed, the new one put in, grease packed in, then it all has to be put back together.

But, I think it is the brakes, I am checking all that this weekend, and I think im going to try and figure out how to get rid of my shotty idle, and I also need to check for carbon build up. My car has 206k miles on original everything. except transmission.
I probably need to get new apex seals new springs new oil seals new o-rings. But, i dont have an extra 1500 laying around to have it rebuilt, and I don't want to do it myself because im a retard and mess most things up pretty bad.
Old 10-05-05, 02:44 PM
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Waffles - hmmm good

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First check your brakes and make sure they aren't dragging or worn down to the rivets. One way to see if its the brakes is to roll slowly with the clicking noise happening and lightly apply the brakes, if the noise goes away its probably a brake issue. To see if its the front or rear use the parking brake next and if it goes away its back brakes otherwise look at the fronts.

If its bearings they usually growl, not just click, and the growl gets loader with wheel speed.

Front bearings are easy and should be replaced if the rotor is replaced. The back bearings are a bitch but can be done on your own for the most part. The bearings on the rear axles require 5 tons of pressure to mount them, so you may want to have a shop do that part.
Old 10-05-05, 03:13 PM
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Hoo, I KNEW it was the brakes. I'm guessing you have zero pad left. Check your pads. If not, then you kinked a line or something (busted caliper?) and the pads are sticking. That's what I think.
Old 10-05-05, 08:41 PM
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Hoo, I KNEW it was the brakes. I'm guessing you have zero pad left. Check your pads. If not, then you kinked a line or something (busted caliper?) and the pads are sticking. That's what I think.
Well, i'm not sure if is them quite yet. Friday I will be removing wheels and putting it on jack stands and changing brakes. BUT, out of pure curiousity, I contorted my body into a weird position almost inside the wheel and looked down my rotor, and I couldnt even spot the pad. I'm pretty sure it is non existent. Damn me for my carelessness on scheduled maintenance, it will be the downfall of this car. Maybe while I have it up on jack stands I should change the oil too, probably needs it. And my local AutoZone is having a sell on Castrol 10w30, which is what I run, dont know if I should, but it is.

But yeah, I think you are right jay, and if you are, you will recieve a big shiney nickel, and a cookie in the mail.

First check your brakes and make sure they aren't dragging or worn down to the rivets. One way to see if its the brakes is to roll slowly with the clicking noise happening and lightly apply the brakes, if the noise goes away its probably a brake issue. To see if its the front or rear use the parking brake next and if it goes away its back brakes otherwise look at the fronts.
Yeah. Read up there ^. Brakes on friday, if that doesnt fix it, its obviously the bearing. I'm solving the problem by deduction, the most expensive, indirect approach to take, but at least you get other stuff fixed along the way too!
Old 10-05-05, 10:11 PM
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Sounds like my 323. You've brought the pad down to no-pad status, and chipped the rotor, and a peice of the rotor is clicking against what USED to be a pad.
Old 10-05-05, 10:27 PM
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Probably. Hopefully it is the brakes and not the bearing, I will be ever so angry if it is the bearing. The rotor has some pretty deep groves, so i'm almost 100% sure thats what itis now. I just hope so, I only have 250 in my bank account
Old 10-05-05, 10:37 PM
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Rotors only cost you about $30 each, if I remember right. So that isn't too bad. Rotors and pads (doing both sides) will be around $100, for pads all around and rotors on the half that's scraping. Resurfacing the other rotors (I wouldn't resurface the one that's fucked) is about $5 a rotor depending on where you go.
Old 10-07-05, 01:23 PM
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Yeah. I dont know if I will have that one rotor turned, probably just replace it. It looks like its got some pretty nasty gooves in it, so i'm going to take one of those uhh..oh god..those things that you can measure the thickness of stuff with, looks like a funky C-Clamp. Well either way, i'm going to get ours and measure how deep the grooves are then measure the thickness of the surface, see if it is even worth it.
Old 10-09-05, 04:10 PM
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oh how nice . I just finished removing my caliper, and wow, look at that, my brake pads look brand new. arghhh.

But the caliper, the rotor and everything is a complete mess of grease, and it looks like it is coming from the axel, like that seal has been broken or something, which would explain the noise, because my bearing is probably trashed. arr. Oh well, I will be working on it for awhile, now I just have to deal with getting the rotors off.

Today has been a horrible day in my history of owning this RX7, when i went ot get my jack i saw standing water in the spare wheel area, i completely freaked and threw cat litter all over down there to soak up anything I can, but I dont have the time to deal with that right now. This week I am going to try and get all my carpet out in one piece and clean up all the water. I think it is just leaking in from the weather stripping.

but, back to rotor removal.
Old 10-09-05, 08:07 PM
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hope that your pads aren't shot from the grease now, douse them with brake cleaner to get it all off.
Old 10-09-05, 09:00 PM
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I don't care about that, I have another set of pads sitting right next to me on my desk.

This car is just turning into a damn nightmare all of the sudden. I need to do so much to it but i'm pretty much broke. This car has a gutted main cat for sure, and I don't know about the others. I want to get an exhaust with cats back on it, I've heard that will keep the 5 and 6th ports from opening or some **** when the cats are gutted, i don't even know how to check if they are "stuck" or whatever it is that everyone talks about. I almost want to sell it for what I paid for it, which was 1000, which isn't bad considering it has pretty nice rims on it and the interior is in pretty freaking good shape. But it is just turning into a hassel. But I have to keep it since my bank account is only 300 dollars and I couldn't afford another car even with that extra 1000.

I just need about 1500 dollars, and I will be happy with it for a while
i want to get new paint and get the little dings fixed and then have the motor tuned and get it back to running as good as I can get it. 200k on everything original, so I should be happy.
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