Talk to me about rust.
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Talk to me about rust.
Hey guys, checking out an 83' tomorrow and know the basics about where and how to search for hidden rot.
Just hoping that you could give me some tips on trouble spots for first gens. Thanks a lot and I'll be sure to post some pics up if all goes well.
Just hoping that you could give me some tips on trouble spots for first gens. Thanks a lot and I'll be sure to post some pics up if all goes well.
#2
Common spots are in front of and behind the wheel wells. Should be pretty easy to spot. Look for any bubbling under the paint. That's an indicator that there is rust underneath. Also, look in the wheel wells themselves. This is a key spot. It's really common to find rust and even gaping holes back behind the wheel. Push on the material and see if it is brittle.
The engine bay is another place to look. The frame rail along the driver side is a very common place for rust because at some point, brake fluid has probably leaked/spilled on it and eaten the paint. Also, check on the firewall around the brake booster.
Lastly, remove the spare tire if there is one and have a look there. When the hatch leaks, water likes to pool up in there. If it has a rear wiper, have a good look at the motor. That's another place water likes to creep in. Good luck!
The engine bay is another place to look. The frame rail along the driver side is a very common place for rust because at some point, brake fluid has probably leaked/spilled on it and eaten the paint. Also, check on the firewall around the brake booster.
Lastly, remove the spare tire if there is one and have a look there. When the hatch leaks, water likes to pool up in there. If it has a rear wiper, have a good look at the motor. That's another place water likes to creep in. Good luck!
#4
Round and Round
iTrader: (10)
I would check the metal lip under the rubber hatch seal at the bottom edge of the hatch. The rubber weatherstripping should pull off the metal lip fairly easily. Bad sign if it is glued in place (it shouldn't be). If the lip is rusted badly, water will seep into the car even when the drain holes are clear. Metal sun roof and the hinge holes for it are other possible problem areas. Probably not much rust if it's a Cali car.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I would check the metal lip under the rubber hatch seal at the bottom edge of the hatch. The rubber weatherstripping should pull off the metal lip fairly easily. Bad sign if it is glued in place (it shouldn't be). If the lip is rusted badly, water will seep into the car even when the drain holes are clear. Metal sun roof and the hinge holes for it are other possible problem areas. Probably not much rust if it's a Cali car.
Anything else I should look out for? Mechanical things or any quirks to watch for?
#6
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
Rust under the battery tray! Not likely enough to damage the frame, but it will be there so worth getting at it once you get the car.
Another EAST coast problem area can be the rear UPPER trailing arm mount points and the INside of the rear storage bins. The bins need to be pulled (easy) to see inside for damage.
Even my S. Cali 80 SA had rust in the rear fender bottoms so even if they look solid outside, you will want to pull the taillights and get a flashlight in there to see how much you have. And you will have some...
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Another EAST coast problem area can be the rear UPPER trailing arm mount points and the INside of the rear storage bins. The bins need to be pulled (easy) to see inside for damage.
Even my S. Cali 80 SA had rust in the rear fender bottoms so even if they look solid outside, you will want to pull the taillights and get a flashlight in there to see how much you have. And you will have some...
'luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Sup guys, just posting to thank everyone for the advice and to let you all know that I now own an 83' RX-7. Pictures?
Yes, 40,698 meticulously documented miles.
Yes, 40,698 meticulously documented miles.
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#10
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lol, and you're worried about rust? the cad plating on the bolts is still good...
BTW thats NICE
BTW thats NICE
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments guys.
The horns not working and I'm missing a bolt for the rear hatch mounts. But other than that just about everything works and is clean. The original owner was a mechanic who kept records of literally everything the car has ever done. So, never had anything to worry about, but thanks for the knowledge and comments.
The horns not working and I'm missing a bolt for the rear hatch mounts. But other than that just about everything works and is clean. The original owner was a mechanic who kept records of literally everything the car has ever done. So, never had anything to worry about, but thanks for the knowledge and comments.
#17
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#18
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look under the carpet!
#21
1st-Class Engine Janitor
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Failing that, it's Mazda common hardware part number 998330610B; you may luck out and be able to get a new one from the dealer. Some of the common hardware parts were used on dozens of models/years.
#22
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it IS available, list price is $1.48. mazdausa has 27 (canada has 2). none on the west coast though, so its a few days away.
#23
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RE: Outdoor car cover.
I recently bought a Covercraft Weathershield HP Car Cover. Although I have only used it indoors, I can say it fits very well and appears well made. Takes about a minute to cover the car and about the same amount of time to remove, fold and roll it up. If you are worried about ding protection I doubt that it would be very helpful. It has grommets on the bottom that you can string a rope or a wire lock through to keep it in place in windy conditions.
Last edited by iowa_hawk1; 08-30-11 at 11:19 PM. Reason: spelling
#25
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I'll look into the $1.48 piece of hardware that I'm missing.
And DivinDriver, thanks for looking anyways. I'll try some dealers.
Iowa Hawk1, how much did that cost? Sounds pretty good.
And DivinDriver, thanks for looking anyways. I'll try some dealers.
Iowa Hawk1, how much did that cost? Sounds pretty good.