I started my t2 swap and noticed that the factory 89 Fuel Pressure Regulator is going to hit the heater hose as seen in these pics. Any ideas? I was thinking of keeping the stock fpr because I am using aftermarket ecu but I'm open to any ideas.

thanks

 

i would say that if you wanted to keep your stock fpr, i would buy a little copper L pipe, like this

http://doityourself.com/ori/200x200/6837256.jpg

the same size as your heater core piping, and cut and splice it on there with pieces of rubber hose, and clamps, it would work great, another idea is to just get rid of the heatercore all together, like ive done, saves wieght!! just an option,...

great work on the swap so far, can i ask you how much youve spent so far on the t2 core and parts, (not to steal the thread or anything)

 

Thanks for the idea's. I think that elbow might make the problem worse though as the heater line is solid that comes out of the firewall.

I have spent more than I care to calculate, t2 engine/tranny, microtech, guru diff, ACT lightweight flywheel and clutch, RC Engineering injectors, FMIC, Bnr stage 2 turbo..........still need to buy griffen radiator, custom driveshaft, fuel pump, maybe a fpr? And probably some unknowns at this time.

I'm supposed to be saving for a house


I got a spare used series 5 t2 block for sale 400.00 (with lightweight flywheel/ without turbo)
Local pickup only.

 

wow! nice to see that you got that in there already. is it already bolted down? is the tranny on it cuz i cant tell by the picture. Call me up. i wanna check it out

 

You're in SoCal - just cap off the heater outlet on the firewall.

 

just say screw it and run the line from the rad to the back driverside of the engine, thats how it is on my TII engine.

 

Was your car a 12a or 13b? Wonder if the engine on a 12a sits a little further back?

On mine it was close with the S4 FPR but I no longer have it on the car. The connection you show goes to the metal tube on the passenger side, not across the engine.

Perhaps you could cut off a little of the hose and remount it to the firewall.

HTH,

Scott

 

damn your going to run ac? im not going to...
also REX4LIFE do u have the charcol canister still?or do you need it for emissions?

 

Tranny's not in, the bolts that connect the clutch to flywheel that came off of the 12a motor are different than the t2 flywheel. Probably gonna do the tranny tomorrow since I now have the correct bolts. the back of the engine is supported with a jack right now.


It came with a 12a, I'm using that bracket from racing beat to mount the 13b into 12a chassis. Yeah I thought about cutting that hose down, haven't examined it to closely yet but that may be a possiblility. Also, the tranny is not in and motor is not bolted down yet, maybe once its all in firm, it will clear, barely.

lol, I would like to keep the heater for those early morning cruises.


I was gonna run a/c, the compressors just hanging loose in the pic but the system is still charged for the time being. After looking at where the ac reciever/dryer sits, I may not be able to keep the a/c. My front mount intecooler will sit there and exits out the sides and will go through the radiator supports. I don't think there will be room to keep that ac stuff up there

 

Is the tranny bolted up in the pic?

 

very nice mang.

let's see it during the next car meet

 

we did a 13b into a gsl and the guy all ready had that racing beat mounting bracket it made the front of the oil pan sit on the crossmember. so we fabed one up

 

nope

Really, I checked the clearance under mine and it seems fine. Did he put the gsl-se oil pan on the motor?

Won't be ready by the next meet (beach bbq). I'm just hoping it's ready for Sevenstock.

 

Why not just cut some of the hose end and slip it on a bit furthur?
Are you using the right mounts and crossmember?Mine was a 12A car and I have no clearance issues with my FPR running an SE crossmember and right mount.In fact theres nearly 2 inches of room between the two......

 

have you checked your shifter linkage to see if everything is going to line up? it seems like your farther back than what other people have experienced.

on another note i wouldn't worry about it till you get your tranny in there and the crossmember in there supporting it UP.

 

Yea,that too.If your mounted that much furthur back,your gonna have even more distance to make up with the shifter,if you run a TII trans.With my engine placement,the TII shifter only had to be moved up about an inch.
To reduce clearance hassles with the front cover,oilpan,firewall and shifter,be sure to run an SE front member and an SE right mount.
Cant tell from the pic what mounts your using,but looking at where the heater hoses' bulge is at near the clamp,there looks to be plenty of extra meat to cut out so you can push that hose towards the firewall and gain some clearance at the elbow.

 

Steve, are you running a series 4 or 5 motor? THe series 5 fuel rail has the fpr built into the rail and it does leave quite a bit more room so that may be why?

I am using the racing beat bracket to mount the 13b into 12a chassis with the gslse front cover and oil pan. Under the car, the pan looks like it's sitting perfect.

If I was to use a gsl-se front bracket, then I would need to use the gsl-se crossmember or the pan would hit (I have a few of the se brackets but didn't want to change out the crossmember because I don't have a spare se member.....and those bolts are tight!) .


Scott's pic of his engine looks like if he had the stock fpr on there, it would sit pretty close as well so I'm hoping the engine will be sitting alright with that racing beat bracket.


Probably my best bet is to try and cut down that hose. Once I get the engine and tranny firmly mounted I will see exactly how much clearance I will have as I am sure the position of the motor will change just a bit. I'll let you guys know what happens once it's tightened down.
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.Actually, I just went out and looked at it again and I think it will have room once I get the tranny under there and mounted up. I'm almost positive it will be fine. Hopefully I get that done tomorrow or at least the tranny under there and held up with a jack so I can visualize how to do the tranny mount.

 

I have a complete 90' TII engine,stock rails and FPR.
GSL-SE front cover(converted for S5 OMP)
GSL-SE front mount bracket and oilpan.
Original 12A crossmember/suspension subframe.
GSL-SE right rubber mount,left side is the same on all 1st gens.
I did run a full 87 TII engine on the same mounts,before the S5 conversion.No problems with that either.I did however switch my 84 heater hoses and hardlines for 79-82 pieces,long before the TII swaps.

It looks to me like the heater hose is just sticking out a lot.Id just remove it,cut off an inch and push it back on to get the room you need.If your oilpan-to-crossmember and oilpan-to-center tierod clearances look good,then your probably OK on the mounting.There isnt much room to play around when it comes to those 3 items.....

 

Yeah my clearances in those areas look good. Thanks for all the help guys, I think it's gonna work out once it's all mounted up. I jacked up the back of the motor alittle more and there's some clearance now. I was thinking that the back was jacked up about right but I guess I was wrong.

 

Ahhh.....no trans on there yet,thatll screw things up a bit!

 

Yup, install that tranny. On a 13-B swap to 12-A, it best to have the tranny in prior to installing the engine. This way, you only have to battle the engine side instead of engine and tranny at the same time.

Also, swapping to a GSL-SE cross-member is a waste of time. If you do, you will still need to notch the front engine bar. The GSL-SE will bolt-up but since a 13-B is longer, the cross-member is bolted further away from the firewall.

 

Yeah, I would have liked to drop the motor and tranny in together but I didn't have the right bolts to attach clutch to the flywheel so we said what the heck, lets just put the motor in there for now Besides, it clears up some room in my garage which is much needed at the moment

 

I got plenty of flywheel bolts. let me know. For test fitting, you can have a junk tranny. Just use teh tranny casing so you dont have to line up the input shaft.

 

got the clutch and tranny bolted up today. I also bolted up the crossmember but still need to figure out how to do the tranny mount. I just have the tranny resting on the crossmember for the time being. Will probably work on it more this weekend. Looks like that hose won't be a problem after all