i would say no dont do it becuase when the engine dumps it in due to redline it cant burn it and just ***** everything up.

 

hmmm, you have the not burning part right (although some synthetics do burn) but it is more the long term use of synthetic without the removal of the oil injection system that "***** everything up." There is a big debate about synthetic oils and rotary engines.

-Marques

 

ive tried synblend this month on my 82 and didnt feel any boost in performance. (takes longer in the morning to warm up seems like it) so ill probably go back to regular oil next month.

 

Plain old Dino oil works great and you know it will be safe in your engine as long as you change it often.

Never heard ANYONE say, Damn I was short FTD buy .5 seconds, I should have used the synthetic.

Also never heard anyone say, **** I blew my motor. Should have used the Agip instead of Pennziol.

 

This sums it up pretty good. http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/synthetc.htm

 

In either case, whether synthetic does anything bad or not, it's still WAY more expensive.

I can get my oil changed twice as often with dino oil as I can with synthetic. So just get a good quality dino oil and save yourself the money

After all, most of us are young, and definitely not rich - or we'd be in the 3rd gen forum!

Jon

 

"Big Debate"?
More like groundless misinformation and conjecture by a clueless few repeating some BS they heard.
Synthetic oil is perfectly safe to use in rotary engines.
End of debate.

 

one name. AMSOIL. solves everything

 

There is not enough long term info regarding the useage of synthetics for the claims (of ******* them up) nor the benifits. Its more of an expense that I will not apply to my car, the savings will buy other cool ****. Now thats the end of debate.

 

WORD

 

I don't even care about this debate anymore. I'll keep using the cheaper mineral oil. Oh, and decent oil filters.

 

"Many customers have asked for our recommendation on engine oil. After years of testing, we have found that Amsoil, a very high quality synthetic lubricant, prevents wear best. We used Amsoil exclusively in our 1980 IMSA GTU-winning RX-7 road racers, and the results speak for themselves. The only problem we have ever found with Amsoil is that, because it reduces friction, it slows the "break-in" period substantially. Once we recognized this problem, we began "breaking-in" engines with mineral based oil on the dynamometer, then switching to Amsoil in the race cars. The problem is not as severe in street-driven cars, since "break-in" normally occurs over a period of thousands of miles of street driving rather than a few hours on an engine dynamometer."

Racing Beat-1985

 

go the dino oil

 

I think this is a dead topic, unless someone can come up with some hard evidence as to wether synthetic is good or bad.
I have run redline oil in my car for the last 40,000 miles and it is almost WAY to damn expensive to justify, but I personally am not going to change.



Micah

 

Thanks guys, thats what i thought! no synthetic for me

 

yea AMSOIL. I use it. it's proven to gain small amounts of horsepower. and you can go easily 3 times as long without an oil change. AMSOIL synthetic diff lube will also help free up a little power.

 

Synth for sure in tranny and diff, other than that well you know what I would say.

 

Then why does mazda STILL say not to put synthetic oil in the RX8? They would have changed the oil reccomendation if they had found it safe!

 

Good call, : I guess they would if it had there name on it.. (Devils advicate)

 

Do any car manufacturers recommend synthetics from the factory? I am just curious.

I will switch to synthetic on the next oil change. I have researched it myself and not taken someone's opinions. I think my motor deserves the best anyway.

 

Where did you read or hear that?


Saying in essence "you should use expensive oil in this car" is not exactly a clever marketing practice, lol.



FWIW, I've seen no proof whatsoever to support the notion that synthetic oil is somehow bad for your rotary engine, save for a bunch of internet fooferaw of an anecdotal nature at best.
(That's my polite way of saying bullshit...)

In fact, this forum was the first place I had ever heard anything but glowing praise for Amsoil synthetic oil, and I go back a few years with rotary cars.

 

I plan on using synthetic oil in my Turbo FB. That being said, I need to qualify how I'm doing it.

First, there is no OMP--totally premix as far as oil that goes into the combustion chambers.

Second, I'll break the engine in with the dino oil and switch to synthetic on my second or third oil change.

The primary reason I want to use synthetic is for turbo lubrication and cooling. Synthetic oil is just better at doing that job when high temperatures are involved.

Sure it's good for the engine also--but as far as injecting it into the combustion chamber, I'm not sure it's a good idea. May be OK but there is no proof either way.

Scott

 

Originally posted by Wankelguy

"Big Debate"?
More like groundless misinformation and conjecture by a clueless few repeating some BS they heard.
Synthetic oil is perfectly safe to use in rotary engines.
End of debate.

Exactly....

Originally posted by Steve Shulz

There is not enough long term info regarding the useage of synthetics for the claims (of f***ing them up) nor the benifits. Its more of an expense that I will not apply to my car,,,

Racing in 1980 and using the synthoil since then would seem to me, anyway, to be long term enough to know if rotaries are hurt by the oil. There are still NO blown engines due to coke buildup from synthetic oil. 24 years is a long time no matter how you cut it.

Originally posted by 851stgen12a

I think this is a dead topic, unless someone can come up with some hard evidence as to wether synthetic is good or bad.

How's this? In the '80 RP streetport I had, it ran on Mobil1 5W-50 synthetic after the break-in period of 7,000 miles. At the 25,000 mark or there-abouts, the fuse holder for the electric fan melted and I had no way to cool the engine except to keep going forward above 30 mph. So, of course, this happens to me on the drive home during rush hour in Big D where you do not have this luxury on westbound I20 ...I was deep into the high temperatures with the temp needle just over the first line on the hot side, taking the shouder when I got near my exit with the heater on and blowing hard, all windows down, hood popped open from inside. Did I mention this happened in Summer? I could only keep that needle at the 3/4 mark on the H side at best and limped the car home keeping the revs down and coasting where I could, pumping out steam like a stoopid train. It was an embarassing ride home but I did it and, 45 minutes after this whole ordeal started, I had it in the driveway where I kept it running with the dime-on-the-choke-**** trick so I could work outside and run power directly to the fan with a jumper wire and run cool water on the radiator. I kept it running until the temp needle was back to the very cool side, shut it down and prayed for the best the next morning, after I replaced the fuse-holder of course. That engine was still running and not blowing ANY smoke, not even on start-up the next day and thereafter. It's at the 46,000 mile mark now, but unfortunately is entombed in the blue '80 RX-7 carcass totaled May 2002....I have it all sealed up and I turn it by hand each month as the day draws near to drop it in the silver '83, Furious Rex..lol...

Originally posted by hornbm

Then why does mazda STILL say not to put synthetic oil in the RX8? They would have changed the oil reccomendation if they had found it safe!

News to me, too, I hadn't heard of this disclaimer....time to back it up with a link or just say you "heard it somewhere"...

 

I WORK for mazda! All the documentation on the rx-8 says to use non-synthetic 5W20 oil.

 

Does it specifically say non-synthetic?

What about the Mazda6 or the Protege? Does the documentation for those cars say anything specifically about synthetic?