SuperCharger
09-18-09, 01:21 PM
#1
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SuperCharger
I'm looking at getting a supercharger for my 85 12a RX7, Camdon quoted me 6000 for a new 13b engine with the supercharger and other parts to complete the 13b, they claim the parts are not made for the 12a. Is this true? Where else could i get this part. I plan on doing a overhaul on the 12a engine, what upgrades are recommended along with the supercharger? Thanks/
09-18-09, 01:48 PM
#3
I need a new user title
If they're not selling the 12A manifold anymore (I believe they used to), it means you'll have to find one used or fabricate something yourself.
As far as prepping the engine, the only thing that's necessary is installing a fitting in the front cover for oil return. If you want to do any porting, do that too. There is some debate on what porting style works best for superchargers, but personally I wouldn't do more than a mild streetport, leaving the intake ports' opening timing stock and not extending the closing timing of the exhaust ports very much, if at all.
As far as prepping the engine, the only thing that's necessary is installing a fitting in the front cover for oil return. If you want to do any porting, do that too. There is some debate on what porting style works best for superchargers, but personally I wouldn't do more than a mild streetport, leaving the intake ports' opening timing stock and not extending the closing timing of the exhaust ports very much, if at all.
09-18-09, 05:08 PM
#4
wait a minute!
The camden kit for a 12a works fine with a stock or ported engine. They did make the intake for it. Being someone who has been there and done that, please take my advise and go with a TII swap. The camden does work well, but even with a 13b you'll get 170 rwhp and great torque, then get used to it and hit the 210hp "BRICK WALL". No hope beyond that! Now you can "start" at 170 rwhp with a stock TII and stock TII ecu and upgrade to 350+ easily in the future (standalone, turbo, porting, etc etc).
the only way past the brick wall:
For me, I stand at the brick wall peering over seeing what I should have done, next year will be an interesting story though!
the only way past the brick wall:
For me, I stand at the brick wall peering over seeing what I should have done, next year will be an interesting story though!
09-18-09, 05:53 PM
#5
This post is great timing for me. I'm gearing up to build a 4 port 13B specifically for a Camden 5". It's going in the GLC.
I'd like to know what level of porting I should do. I'm thinking totally stock ports on 1st gen Y plates. It is to be a daily driver.
84stock, you mentioned the exhaust close timing should be left alone. You also said intake open timing should be left alone. I agree on the intake but the exhaust ports are US-spec early open/early close. We're talking very early closing. They're very tiny, like half the height of a T2 port. I bet I could port upward 2mm (so the bevel is gone, then redo it). Thoughts?
I'd like to know what level of porting I should do. I'm thinking totally stock ports on 1st gen Y plates. It is to be a daily driver.
84stock, you mentioned the exhaust close timing should be left alone. You also said intake open timing should be left alone. I agree on the intake but the exhaust ports are US-spec early open/early close. We're talking very early closing. They're very tiny, like half the height of a T2 port. I bet I could port upward 2mm (so the bevel is gone, then redo it). Thoughts?
09-19-09, 03:40 AM
#6
This post is great timing for me. I'm gearing up to build a 4 port 13B specifically for a Camden 5". It's going in the GLC.
I'd like to know what level of porting I should do. I'm thinking totally stock ports on 1st gen Y plates. It is to be a daily driver.
84stock, you mentioned the exhaust close timing should be left alone. You also said intake open timing should be left alone. I agree on the intake but the exhaust ports are US-spec early open/early close. We're talking very early closing. They're very tiny, like half the height of a T2 port. I bet I could port upward 2mm (so the bevel is gone, then redo it). Thoughts?
I'd like to know what level of porting I should do. I'm thinking totally stock ports on 1st gen Y plates. It is to be a daily driver.
84stock, you mentioned the exhaust close timing should be left alone. You also said intake open timing should be left alone. I agree on the intake but the exhaust ports are US-spec early open/early close. We're talking very early closing. They're very tiny, like half the height of a T2 port. I bet I could port upward 2mm (so the bevel is gone, then redo it). Thoughts?
You can do a standard streetport on the exhaust. I had a half bridge at one point, had great midrange but had to cruise at 3000. I like the streetported 4 port TII irons I have now.
Twin charge next year!
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09-19-09, 12:38 PM
#9
But on the 7" in the REPU, I have a mild streetported 4 port R5 13B, and it does pretty well. It needs a rebuild though due to terminally low oil pressure from worn stat gear bearings. It has the old school heavy 9.2 compression rotors. RB light steel flywheel.
Yeah, I like the 7" in my REPU. It has more low end than the 5", and the extra spinning mass makes the light steel flywheel feel more like an FC stock 24 pound flywheel. Unfortunately I'm only borrowing the SC from a friend to work out the bugs for his REPU 7" SC install. So far so good. But when it goes back to him, the 5" will swap in to my truck so I've got to build my next engine with that in mind. That's why I asked about ports for a 5". The GLC is getting the 5" for now and then it will go in the truck when the time comes.
09-19-09, 02:31 PM
#11
The Big Ugly!
I have the Camden 7" set up on my big street ported 13B with 9.4:1 rotors. I couldn't seem to get the info from Atkins about pulleys either. My charger uses the 4 bolt pulley design not the newer single bolt style. I had a larger main pulley made to overdrive the charger thus making more boost. I was at 12 psi, but last time I called about the pulley they had found a smaller blower pulley back on a shelf so I bought it. The car is down currently due to some electrical issues so i'm not sure what the boost will be now with new pulley. I don't use a carb set up I have a custom fuel injection system. If i can figure out why my computer won't read my media card I'll post some pics
09-19-09, 05:58 PM
#12
Yep.....would love the proper turbo thing, but a standalone and quality turbo are out of my budget. I do like the camden, but yearn for more. I will be using a holset, blowing through the carb into the camden, using a fmic from a volvo, water meth in the lower intake and for timing I will use a locked dizzy. Already have the carb modification plans, have a carb hat, custom header will only be about $200, intercooler on hand already (a donation), budget intercooler piping as well so the experiment will be well under $1000 total.
09-19-09, 08:15 PM
#16
Yep.....would love the proper turbo thing, but a standalone and quality turbo are out of my budget. I do like the camden, but yearn for more. I will be using a holset, blowing through the carb into the camden, using a fmic from a volvo, water meth in the lower intake and for timing I will use a locked dizzy. Already have the carb modification plans, have a carb hat, custom header will only be about $200, intercooler on hand already (a donation), budget intercooler piping as well so the experiment will be well under $1000 total.
higher boost turbo for higher RPM running. If you were going to do both at 7PSI or
what have you there would be little or no gain (yes, I know 7psi on one app is not
the same as 7psi on another). I could see a SC boosting about 8psi down low, and
a big (read: Laggy) turbo start boosting 8+psi after around 4k.
Also when you go to boost, I would go supercharger -> turbo -> carb. I wouldn't
want to run more boost through the SC than it is pushing out (12...15... whatever
PSI) for fear that it could blow the lobe seals out. Camden's are pretty expensive
to be blowing seals out all the time!
Have the SC suck air from an airbox, blowing into the inlet of the turbo. When the
turbo starts sucking in more air than the SC will let in you open the one way valve.
I think you could get by with opening the SC's bypass, but better safe than sorry.
I am bored, and drew a pretty bad picture to get the point
09-20-09, 03:03 AM
#20
Here is the article http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=h...num=1&ct=image
this project achieved 700 rwhp, I saw a magazine article with a built motor running 1000. Check out the dyno results on the third page. So for me, without a standalone, efi and optimum timing control, I hope for a 50% increase in torque and power.
this project achieved 700 rwhp, I saw a magazine article with a built motor running 1000. Check out the dyno results on the third page. So for me, without a standalone, efi and optimum timing control, I hope for a 50% increase in torque and power.
09-20-09, 05:26 PM
#25
The Big Ugly!
The Radiator on top is for the water to air aftercooler I have mounted between the blower & the manifold. I'm using the Turbo II hood scoop for air flow didn't want to put in front of the cars radiator. I had thought of doing a compound set up before. I had found a few mustangs, pro drag cars, a V6 camary swapped MR2 with a compound system, the meguiars integra & the lancia delta intregal came with a compound set up. Also I remember the supercharged mini's adding a turbo to the mix