Sub Zero Bottle
#4
Originally Posted by trochoid
90% antifreeze, 10% water, for the cold start assist. Few of them work anymore and in your location, you probably don't need it.
Originally Posted by John64
Take it out, they never worked.
#7
Originally Posted by trochoid
90% antifreeze, 10% water, for the cold start assist. Few of them work anymore and in your location, you probably don't need it.
I don't understand, so how does injecting antifreeze into the fuel system/combustion chamber make the car start better in cold weather ?
jeff
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#8
Originally Posted by Dr_Jeff
I don't understand, so how does injecting antifreeze into the fuel system/combustion chamber make the car start better in cold weather ?
jeff
jeff
Rich
#9
i guess the idea is to lube the intake and the carb so they dont freeze. i think its kinda neat and unique to the car. i'd leave it. all of mine have worked. you can test the pump by applying power to it to see if it works. i dont think it would even get cold enough here in ohio to use it...although.....it is ohio and no sooner do you blink, the weather changes....
#10
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
i guess the idea is to lube the intake and the carb so they dont freeze. i think its kinda neat and unique to the car. i'd leave it. all of mine have worked. you can test the pump by applying power to it to see if it works. i dont think it would even get cold enough here in ohio to use it...although.....it is ohio and no sooner do you blink, the weather changes....
Rich
#12
Umm here in Cleveland its a Blizzard of sorts.
I haven't been up in Vermilliion for at least two years. Its always warmer there.
I haven't the foggiest but I'll see if mine works this weekend.
I haven't been up in Vermilliion for at least two years. Its always warmer there.
I haven't the foggiest but I'll see if mine works this weekend.
#13
Originally Posted by mazdaverx713b
i guess the idea is to lube the intake and the carb so they dont freeze. i think its kinda neat and unique to the car. i'd leave it. all of mine have worked. you can test the pump by applying power to it to see if it works. i dont think it would even get cold enough here in ohio to use it...although.....it is ohio and no sooner do you blink, the weather changes....
#17
Originally Posted by mcnannay
I'm pretty sure you are wrong, the idea was to get better compression by sealing the apex seals. Not to mention, i would think it lubricates the housings a tiny bit on startup, not as hard on parts. But i always thought the main purpose was to build better cold start compression.
perhaps.. im not too sure. however, i think you have a great point. it makes sense. since ive never had to use the sub zero assist(and many others it would seem), i guess we dont know its every quirk and purpose. perhaps it has a couple of purposes.....
#19
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by Dr_Jeff
Screw Up ?
It's in near mint condition, along with the automatic transmission & the ice cold air.
jeff
It's in near mint condition, along with the automatic transmission & the ice cold air.
jeff
Run down some options.
14 inch wheels with disc brakes all around? You've got GSL-SE suspension...
Aside from, we can tell what your car used to be. GS or GSL. Auto wasn't available on Base/S either.
#20
Rotoholic Moderookie
iTrader: (4)
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,962
Likes: 33
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
What he means Jeff is that the GSL-SE never came with a 12a. Ever.
The thing that makes a GSL-SE a GSL-SE is the 13b Fuel Injected engine. (well that, and some minor refinements like different bolt pattern etc...)
by saying that you have an -SE with a 12a, it says that someone has swapped out your engine for the engine out of another model (either S, GS or GSL), hence "screwing up" your -SE.
Jon
The thing that makes a GSL-SE a GSL-SE is the 13b Fuel Injected engine. (well that, and some minor refinements like different bolt pattern etc...)
by saying that you have an -SE with a 12a, it says that someone has swapped out your engine for the engine out of another model (either S, GS or GSL), hence "screwing up" your -SE.
Jon
#22
Originally Posted by mcnannay
I'm pretty sure you are wrong, the idea was to get better compression by sealing the apex seals. Not to mention, i would think it lubricates the housings a tiny bit on startup, not as hard on parts. But i always thought the main purpose was to build better cold start compression.
On the old WWII p51-d mustang planes, they used what was called "WEP" (war emergency power)
WEP was simply shooting water into the intake to increase the compression and giving you more power.
I assume this is the same idea in a less rust causing fluid.
#23
Ok dont anyone take any offense to this ok? But Capt Obvious is comming to the rescue. "SUB ZERO" assist. If it was straight water it would be ice no? The antifreeze is to keep it from FREEZING!
I do believe your right about it increasing compression for starting.
I believe WEP was a water/methanol mix used for high altitude performance during dogfights. Just like any engine, you can run more boost without detonation if you have that. Allowed you to escape an attacking fighter but could only be used for short bursts. Everything on those old birds was manually controlled from the cockpit.
I do believe your right about it increasing compression for starting.
I believe WEP was a water/methanol mix used for high altitude performance during dogfights. Just like any engine, you can run more boost without detonation if you have that. Allowed you to escape an attacking fighter but could only be used for short bursts. Everything on those old birds was manually controlled from the cockpit.
#24
ADI - Anti Detonation Injection
I was told years ago that the sub-zero fluid in the rotary was to reduce cranking friction in extreme cold conditions. I can see that it might help with compression if your apex seals are gummed up with high-viscosity oil. We certainly don't need it here in Seattle.
RX7Carl is right - the water injection in the high performance aircraft engines was to allow more boost, and hence more horsepower, without detonation. It was called ADI in some applications (AntiDetonation Injection). It was used on the Pratt&Whitney R-2800s in later Thunderbolts and Corsairs. I believe the methanol was to prevent freezing at high altitudes. War Emergency Power was a rating above Military power, typically limited to about 5 minutes or less. You can read about this here:
http://home.att.net/~C.C.Jordan/index.html
In some early jets like the B-47 bomber and some 707s, water injection was used to allow more fuel burn, and hence more thrust, without exceeding allowable exhaust gas temperature (EGT). It was turned on at the beginning of the takeoff roll, and ran until the water was consumed. You could watch the takeoff and see a heavy trail of black smoke, then at an altitude of about 500 to 1,000 feet the smoke would clean up as the water was consumed.
RX7Carl is right - the water injection in the high performance aircraft engines was to allow more boost, and hence more horsepower, without detonation. It was called ADI in some applications (AntiDetonation Injection). It was used on the Pratt&Whitney R-2800s in later Thunderbolts and Corsairs. I believe the methanol was to prevent freezing at high altitudes. War Emergency Power was a rating above Military power, typically limited to about 5 minutes or less. You can read about this here:
http://home.att.net/~C.C.Jordan/index.html
In some early jets like the B-47 bomber and some 707s, water injection was used to allow more fuel burn, and hence more thrust, without exceeding allowable exhaust gas temperature (EGT). It was turned on at the beginning of the takeoff roll, and ran until the water was consumed. You could watch the takeoff and see a heavy trail of black smoke, then at an altitude of about 500 to 1,000 feet the smoke would clean up as the water was consumed.
Last edited by stilettoman; 11-27-05 at 12:48 AM.
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