Strut cartridge removal... Yeah, I searched.
#1
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From: Surrounded by Sebey parts, Rhode Island
Strut cartridge removal... Yeah, I searched.
I finally got that damn eight sided nut off by reinstalling the assembly into the car and loosening it there... Easy.
But now, the damn cartridge won't come out. I thought it would just slide right out, so what the hell am I doing wrong? None of the threads I searched through seemed to cover getting the cartridge out, although one said something about "install the nut and whack it." So, by that, I'm assuming I need to put the nut back on the top of the strut, put my pipe wrench up against the nut, and nail the wrench with a BFH. Does that sound about right?
But now, the damn cartridge won't come out. I thought it would just slide right out, so what the hell am I doing wrong? None of the threads I searched through seemed to cover getting the cartridge out, although one said something about "install the nut and whack it." So, by that, I'm assuming I need to put the nut back on the top of the strut, put my pipe wrench up against the nut, and nail the wrench with a BFH. Does that sound about right?
#3
just keep pulling. just try random things to get a better grip. definately remember what aussie said, watch out for the old fluid. when i did my first one my leg got covered in the grease. a vise helps out a lot to hold the strut tube, or try standing on it and pulling up. standing on it also seems like itll be better in preventing the spilling of the old fluid.
#6
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by $100T2
Do I need to oil around the new strut cartridge? If so, what do I use for it?
Procedure 1 being: Fill Shock absorber tube with 225cc of Shock absorber fluid.
I think that fluid int he tube was from the old blown out shock.
Note torque specs:
Using stock refillable shocks: 36-43 Ft-Lbs (That'd be Procedure 5, not required as stated above.)
Using Cartridge type shocks: 58-108 Ft-Lbs.
Last edited by Pele; 05-29-06 at 12:11 PM.
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#8
On the oem struts, you actually rebuild them. The strut inserts do away with that procedure. Pour a couple of oz. of motor oil in the tube before installing the insert. There should be just enough oil in there so that when the insert is inserted, a little oil comes out.
The oil helps transfer heat away from the new insert, they last longer.
The oil helps transfer heat away from the new insert, they last longer.
#10
yea its only for heat tranfer, a little atf works good for that as its thin and transfers heat well, it only takes a little bit to fill up the housing with aftermarket struts in there, don't put too much and spill it everywhere when you put it all together like i did
#13
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
I've used both antifreeze and motor oil, depending on what I had around at the time. I'm not sure it matters overmuch, just so long as there is some liquid around the insert to help heat transfer...
#14
Anti-freeze or auto trans fluid is what I've used with no problems.
The original strut has the shock built into the strut the replacement is a enclosed unit into itself.
The original strut has the shock built into the strut the replacement is a enclosed unit into itself.
#19
I'm putting Koni reds in and they don't go down all the way. It's almost like they are binding on the way down. Just need like another inch or so.... Anything I can do? What am I missing?
#20
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From: Surrounded by Sebey parts, Rhode Island
Originally Posted by legokcen
I'm putting Koni reds in and they don't go down all the way. It's almost like they are binding on the way down. Just need like another inch or so.... Anything I can do? What am I missing?
#21
Originally Posted by legokcen
I'm putting Koni reds in and they don't go down all the way. It's almost like they are binding on the way down. Just need like another inch or so.... Anything I can do? What am I missing?