lightspd

Hello All,


I'm not sure what could be causing this issue. I was driving home tonight, everything was going fine, Then in the middle of accelerating it was like I got a huge power boost and really started to accelerating. I pushed in the clutch to shift from 3rd to 4th and it red lined. I tapped the gas a couple of times and whatever it was became unstuck, the car backfired and then no problems. If it was just a stuck cable, why did I feel the increase in power? If anyone needs more info or pictures of anything let me know.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

what year is the 7 and if its an S3, is it an SE?

lightspd

Sorry 84 GS stock.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

i would first check for binding in the throttle cable. remember that the hot start assist and choke cables can bind or come loose and **** themselves in the bracket on the carb causing the same issue. check all cables and ensure they are secure

are you still currently having this issue?

lightspd

I'll double check them all in the morning when there is light to see. No, it only happened the once while driving, and hasn't happened since. I'm just at a loss as to why it felt like it gained HP. I actually felt myself get pushed back in the seat a little more.

flight_of_pain

Perhaps the vac secondaries source port was gummed up and it cleared out as you were driving. Work the linkage and you should be able to hear the diaphragm push air.


Isaac

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Check the whole linkage carefully; your secondary linkage may have become disconnected, which could make for very interesting living til you fix it.

jr515

spray carb cleaner on the linkage.

Kentetsu

Very slowly move the linkage by hand, watching carefully for any loose parts, or potential movement that could result in jamming/binding/sticking. If you have removed a cable because it was not needed, then the part that it attached to at the carb may be the cause. Most likely its what Divindriver said, the secondary linkage.

Anyway, definitely fix it right away, and start with the linkage. If it were a cable, it probably wouldn't have fixed itself and not caused problems on a regular basis.



.

lightspd

Well I took a flash light and looked around the best I could. I'm not too sure what the secondary linkage is, not very good with FSM more a visual guy, anyway here's what I saw. There's two cables coming out of the firewall, one thin and one a little thicker, that heads to the carb. The thicker of the cables is loose. I can barely feel and see it. Could this cable be the problem?

Crispin38

iTrader: (3)

Where is it loose..?

Chevsica

My first rx7 came from an older couple that never put thier foot in it. When I bought it I thought that it was really slow and was all gears, no power. A couple of weeks after I bought it I was driving it hard and the same thing happened to me. It felt like it had a sudden increase in power but mine wouldn't quit revving, I had to turn the key to the off position! After it did this a few times it must have loosened up and didn't stick anymore. I guess my point in all of this is, it sounds like the secondaries were gummed up from not being used and on my car they finally worked themselves out. Like others have said, carb cleaner would probably help a lot!

lightspd

If I follow the cable down, to where you can actually see the thin metal cable itself coming out, that is loose.

Chevsica: Sounds exactly like what happened to mine, except the engine went back down.

Just to clarify, because like I said I'm a visual guy. I ask forgiveness if this is a really stupid question, but... Do I just spray the carb cleaner all around under the carb or just on the part closest to the firewall?

Chevsica

Someone correct me if I am wrong, I don't know if this is the correct procedure on the rotary because of the seals in the motor and a reaction to the amount of carb cleaner that goes down the carb.

Take the air cleaner off start the car and rev it up while spraying the cleaner down the carb. You have to keep it revved up a little or else the motor will die. I would then wait until the motor has cooled down and then spary the crap out of the outside of the carb as well as the linkage. Should clean it up nicely!

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the carb cleaner would probably loosen up more gunk in the carb and further induce problems. a carb rebuild is the only correct way to clean a carb imo.

the larger of the two cables protruding from the firewall is the accelerator cable. its not supposed to be loose. the smaller cable is the choke cable. have someone press on the accelerator slowly while you watch for the cable to bind or to loose tension when the accelerator is depressed. check and adjust as needed.

lightspd

Ok...so it looks like I'll have to pickup a carb rebuild kit this weekend, good thing they are cheap. What sucks is, I've never rebuilt a card, nor no how, so I'll have to wait till I have the money for mechanic. I know a lot of you will say, just do it myself, but like I said, I'm a visual guy and also like to have someone around who knows what they are doing. I'll get under the hood this weekend though and see if I can't get the accelerator cable to tighten up a bit. Thanks everyone for the help, much appreciated, I'll have to update you all after the rebuild is done.

cshaw07

iTrader: (14)

its extremely simple. if your a visualy guy, take it apart, draw some pics, clean everything in carb cleaner, replace all the parts that come in the rebuild kit, and put it back together. I was nervous my first too, nikki popped my cherry. hahhaaha

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Not to hard. Here's some pictures http://intertron.com/ron/carb.html

The carb manuals, Factory Service manuals and wiring diagrams can be found on one of these sites.
http://wright-here.net/cars/rx7/manuals.html
http://foxed.ca/foxed/index.php?page=rx7manual

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I'm visual myself, so I either take pics or in the case of carb rebuilds I keep one laying around that's never been modded. That carb only comes apart to reference where a particular part goes, then it's immediately put back together.

lightspd

Thanks for the pictures of the carb, great reference.

trochoid: That is a really good idea. I will have to see if I can hunt down an old carb for reference. Doesn't need to be working, so might be able to pull one from a junk yard.

I found a friend who's done a couple rebuilds, on non rotarys, so I'm going to work with him. Hopefully we just don't screw anything up while doing it.

lightspd

Well, I picked up the rebuild kit and will be rebuilding it this weekend. The rebuild kit is NAPA brand, got it for free. The only thing I'm concerned about it screwing up my carb. In the off chance, when I rebuild my carb it doesn't work right afterwards, what would you recommend replacing it with? I was thinking about ordering a Sterling and saying screw the rebuild, but he isn't taking orders. I've seen Holley recommended, but which one?

Thanks

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I'd just pick up another factory NIKKI and use it if the rebuild doesn't work.

jdmminot

iTrader: (6)

I just rebuilt mine, my first carb rebuild ever, and honestly there is not anything you can seriously mess up. As for all the jets and airbleeds, just make an outline of the main body on a piece of cardboard, and tape them down one by one in the correct position as soon as you pull them off. As for the contents of the kit, it might seem overwhelming at first, but it really becomes clear where everything goes as soon as you tear it down. If you read some of sterlings advice... "LEAVE YER DAMN FLOAT LEVELS ALONE", and I don't see why your carb wouldn't afterwards, apart from some minor adjusting.

ztfdrake61

You may have already came across this page, but i found it to be the most helpful when i first rebuilt my nikki

http://sterlingmetalworks.com/the_nikki_carburetor.htm

I did mine in a shallow 2'x3'plastic tub from wal-mart, a toothbrush, and a cup of kerosene to cut through the grime.
Just take your time, and it's actually pretty simple.