Stock NIKKI questions...
03-12-09, 10:13 AM
#26
I uploaded the new version of Adobe and the Mazspeed tutorial keeps opening up with the old one... I'm don't really want to upload another program that isn't going to work.
I used to do the silicone bit, but it turned out not to be necessary (There's a thread around here where it was discussed at length). No harm, though, if you keep it out of the vacuum ports. Biatch to get it all off later, though.
03-14-09, 12:42 PM
#29
Alrighty, so after following the Mazspeed tutorial I have a few questions..?
In order according to the tutorial:
- I removed the Anti-afterburn valve like the tutorial said, however on my YAW carb this thing is still there but only half hooked up. I bought the YAW off a reputable guy from the forums and I'm not sure if it came this way from him for a reason or me in my infinite wisdom decided to put it back on..? Anyways If I do remove it completly like the tutorial said... they don't mention plugging this pipe off the lower intake....?
Anyone know what this thing (anti-afterburn valve) actually does...? I only ask b/c I prefer knowing why I'm taking something off vs just removing it b/c someone said so even if they do know alot more then I do.
I'll be back w/my next question in a bit. I need to regroup and grab a bite to eat.
In order according to the tutorial:
- I removed the Anti-afterburn valve like the tutorial said, however on my YAW carb this thing is still there but only half hooked up. I bought the YAW off a reputable guy from the forums and I'm not sure if it came this way from him for a reason or me in my infinite wisdom decided to put it back on..? Anyways If I do remove it completly like the tutorial said... they don't mention plugging this pipe off the lower intake....?
Anyone know what this thing (anti-afterburn valve) actually does...? I only ask b/c I prefer knowing why I'm taking something off vs just removing it b/c someone said so even if they do know alot more then I do.
I'll be back w/my next question in a bit. I need to regroup and grab a bite to eat.
03-14-09, 01:01 PM
#30
Lives on the Forum
I believe the technical term for that is "BIG ASSED VACUUM LEAK". Plug it. I used a section of temperature resistant hose with a fat bolt in the end to plug it, secured with a hose clamp.
03-14-09, 01:36 PM
#31
Chad Carson
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Block that off with a hose and bolt for now. hen later when you remove the lower intake again run it buy a shop to have it welded shut.
03-14-09, 02:17 PM
#32
http://maz_tutorials.ten15.net/
^ Emissions removal
I forgot that that hose is the one that gets hot b/c it's right near the exhaust and usually gets all cracked up causing a vaccum leak / high idle / etc... Plugging it up with a piece of hose and bolt would probally do the same thing down the road sometime, so yea welding it shut is prob best.
And the tutorial does say to block it off... haha they used a hose bolt and hose clamp toooo. I musta missed that.
Well my dizzy is hooked up w/vaccum advance and my vent solenoid is all routed correctly tooo thanks to the tutorial. Now it's off to Glazedhams thread in the archives to remove all unnecessary carb components...
^https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/
^ Emissions removal
I forgot that that hose is the one that gets hot b/c it's right near the exhaust and usually gets all cracked up causing a vaccum leak / high idle / etc... Plugging it up with a piece of hose and bolt would probally do the same thing down the road sometime, so yea welding it shut is prob best.
And the tutorial does say to block it off... haha they used a hose bolt and hose clamp toooo. I musta missed that.
Well my dizzy is hooked up w/vaccum advance and my vent solenoid is all routed correctly tooo thanks to the tutorial. Now it's off to Glazedhams thread in the archives to remove all unnecessary carb components...
^https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/intake-carb-rebuild-how-strip-nikki-down-648376/
03-14-09, 04:38 PM
#34
That valve stops small backfiring on deceleration by stopping air and fuel to the rear rotor. They go bad every 80k miles. You don't need it. You will hear small popping every now and again as you decelerate the engine though. Most of us already have it plugged up. It's no big deal.
03-15-09, 06:40 PM
#36
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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That's the sub-zero starting assist port. It's where an antifreeze mixture was pumped through into the carb.
It terminates at the rear of the AP nozzle, so it wouldn't pose a vacuum l;eak threat. But it also contains a checkball, so it can't suck anything in. It doesn't need to be capped.
Only certain 9colder) regions had these on the carbs.
It terminates at the rear of the AP nozzle, so it wouldn't pose a vacuum l;eak threat. But it also contains a checkball, so it can't suck anything in. It doesn't need to be capped.
Only certain 9colder) regions had these on the carbs.
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