NatAsp12A

I'm just gonna ask this as simple as I can, does stock 100 or 101 hp out of a stock rotary really feel as sluggish as 100 hp? I've seen acceleration videos of "stock" 12As and they seem to rev up no problem and get right up to speed, which doesn't really make sense with only 100 hp. And also, in the future (hopefully a few months) I plan on buying a rx7. What are some major things I need to look out for? I've already read Dave Disney's rx7 buying guide and it seemed very detailed, but from personal account, what should I look out for when looking one over and possibly test driving one?

7aull

iTrader: (2)

100 hp is "adequate". They are best described as "peppy" by today's standards, when damn near every Jap sedan is pumping 150+HP. Bear in mind these are also lighter cars (SAs weigh in at 2800lbs). And of course there are ways to make them go faster, as you probably have already read. Only limited by your wallet.

Not familiar with Disney's guide. If it points out the foibles and problem areas then, great. Every car has them. Obv with RX7 the motor health is key. esp since motor pieces are either $$ or extinct. I would urge you to have the compression checked at a Mazda shop with the correct tool (unique). Everything else is just mechanics and body, which any car suffers from.

As sage buyers of any vintage car will tell you, buy the BEST you can afford. Most trim is extinct too, so getting a cheep "project" car with a lot of cosmetic needs will bleed you. There are some nice ones out there! patience, and be ready to pounce when "that" car appears.

Mine was on ebay, and in California!

Best of Luck
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Actually the SA weigh in around 2300 lbs but even the FB are very light as well. That 105 hp is
more than enough to have fun with and with just bolt ons you can increase that by at least 50%
to make it more fun.

You want to look for a car that has the fewest owners as possible and with no mods. All stock,
maybe some older ladys car that doesn't get driven now. If up north, rust is an issue behind
the rear wheels in the quarters, around the hatch and sunroof (don't get one if you can help it),
and in the car behind the seats under the bins or rear cover. Also if it sat out alot beware of
rust in the cowl under the wipers.

Compression test can be done with a normal tester but you want to hold down the release
button and watch for 3 even pulses on each rotor. Its not as accurate but can give you an
idea when actually looking at the car.

There will probably be fuel/carb issues if it sat for any amount of time. These may include a
rusty or cruddy tank, plugged lines, gummed up carb etc.

RXTbone

Above are great tips - I'll strongly second the compression test. If you have an issue there - even if you're a capable engine builder, the gasket/seal kit for a rotary is $1K+ alone.

When driving - make sure the car spools up freely to 7K. If it chokes out at 5.5K, you'll have carb/fuel system issues to remedy. Also, crawl up under the car and look for oil leaks. Figure out where the leak is from - pan gaskets are simple - remedying a dowel leak is expensive. Beyond the normal rust check, pull the carpet up that runs down past the storage bins - rust can lurk there. Make sure the tranny syncos are in good shape, I have a few that got chippy going into 3rd...

Sounds like they have all these issues - but really, they're very solid fun unique car.

I'll mention one additional thing - and maybe some of the other, more knowledgeable dudes will hop in here with their thoughts - I have a low mileage '83, but I ended up having to rebuild the engine. You may be better off buying a higher mileage car (lower yearly mileage), than one that's been sitting. Seals harden as they get older, especially if they're not being treated to the oils that keep them pliable... The rest of the car has been great.

Hope this helps - good luck!

hcaulfield57

iTrader: (1)

Before purchasing my 83' GS (12a model) I'd never driven a car with so little power before. I expected with 100 hp for it to be completely dog-slow. My previous car was a modified 91' 300ZX Twin-Turbo, that probably had between 380 - 400 whp before the turbos blew. I enjoy the driving characteristics of my stock 12a more than my old Z's turbo V6. The engine is very lively, peppy and an absolute riot to drive. The sound is fantastic, the way it revs is beautiful and it feels like you have power at any RPM and the entire power range. I've driven with a co-worker who commented on how fast the car felt despite it's low power. The fact is, the SA/FB RX-7's have very little between the road and the driver, so while you're not going that fast, it feels much faster than you're really going. So while you're not going to beat anyone in a drag race, you feel like you're going fast. SA/FB RX-7's weigh around 2,300 lbs (depending on options) which is slightly heavier than a NA Miata, so they feel very nimble and fun to drive.

After owning my 300ZX and my RX-7 back to back, I've totally changed the way I view "fun" cars. I now strongly prefer small engined, normally aspirated, lightweight cars now. I could only use a small percentage of my 300ZX's power, whereas I can use my RX-7's full 100 hp in a safe and courteous way. My RX-7 with around 58,000 miles on it has been very reliable with only some minor things breaking due to age issues. I agree on a compression-test and watch out for rust. Probably anything else can be fixed relatively easy. They're fun, unique cars that offer a very rewarding, pure driving experience.