CasperIV

Well, as some of you know I have been working on getting my 84 built, and my goal is to break into the 13's. Until this point I was planning to do all this for under $2000. Well, I'm about $1300 into the project and running high 14's on bald street tires, running too small chokes on the carb, and running headers that are too small for the port job that was done. Anyway, I think I just agreed to a competition with my friends project 240Z. What I just found out is the last dyno put the car at 305RWHP out of the I6, and he has not installed the headers yet (The dyno pull was stock manifolds). My car is estimated at about 180RWHP when it's all tuned in and working correctly, so now I have to decide if it's even possible for this project to keep up.

What do you guys think, is there any way I can build my NA 13b first gen into something that can keep up with a 300+ HP 240Z? I owned a 71 240Z that was pushing about 200HP and I could run high 13's, so I know we are talking about a very fast car he's setting up. Any ideas? Should I just plan on not going after that car?

Here is quick mod list for my 84:
13b street port
webber carb
RB headers and exhaust
GSL-SE tranny and drive train
6 puck clutch
light fly wheel
195 FP + reg
Eibach suspension (I think)

I'm sure I'm forgetting stuff, but you get the idea. I don't even know where to begin if I need to start trying for over 200HP, and I doubt I am interested in spending the money on a first gen to get it to run with his Z.

IanS

iTrader: (4)

75 shot nitrous should help you out a bit. Its only cheating when you beat the other guy. they never cry about it when you use it and they still beat you.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

sounds like ull get whooped...
i think ur best bet is to cut some of his spark plug leads before the race lol

quick hp gain as stated above propaly get u to mid 13s with good tyres
best of luck from most setups to get higer hp would be turbo and since u have a 13b so much easeyer...

Weed Wacker

Are there any rules to this challenge other than you are trying to stay under $2K?

If not: Get a 100 shot (and do it right)
MSD Ignition Boxes W/ retard switch (for the nitrous)
Good Drag radials so you can hook
He won't know your spraying if you know how to hide it

If you spend more than $2K: Turbo
Fuel Injection

P.S. If this exceeds your budget then don't get the ignition boxes, just buy two blaster coils and then retard your total timing 4*, the coils are nice, but the boxes just make things more convenient and efficient

CasperIV

There are no rules actually. I was trying to do a demonstration that I could buy and build a car for under $2000 that would run 13's. This challenge started later, and I know that he will be over the $2000 range with just he tune up stuff.

I could use NOS, but I want to win at more then drag racing. We are also talking about running the PIR road course.... but I don't really think this little first gen stands much of a chance.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

Thats an insult

rotarycrazy

iTrader: (8)

take that motor and stuff in into SA stip it and then you wil have a 13 sec ride for sure.

Naegleria_Fowleri

A good set of drag radials compared to a bald street tire would do wonders. Just ask him to go through the twisties with you after he stomps your *** into the ground in a straight line.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I don't believe that he got 300 to the wheels on an old L28 I6, without using forced induction. I smell BS. Post pics of his setup.

kgray

get a used header and have a 2.5" exhaust fabbed. can be done for under 500 and will have much nore flow than rb's

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

i usually try not to get involved in these "can-i-beat-him"-threads, but this will be one of my exceptions.

first off, if the dyno on that Z is authentic, then my thoughts are that your best bet is a turbo. period. you'll need the torque spread that only a decent (or better) turbo can provide - either that or more "cc's" (i.e. a 20B). i can attest to the great torque that a streetport 13B can make (when done right); but against a 300 HP Datsun L-series? dismal outlook, my man. dismal.

however, i'm skeptical about the Z's output as well. there's an untold story somewhere - compression (pistons), a serious head PLUS ... supercharger, giggle gas, or both are probably there at minimum.

if you are dealing with engine-only, then aside from getting the best tune you can on your current setup, i'd suggest decent suspension and any-and-everything that ensures the most power getting to the ground (torque brace, mounts, slippery lube in the gerabox and rear, and TIRES!). by the way, i was able to go toe-to-toe with a BMW M3 (E36 model) with a poorly tuned Holley and streetport 13B, but i had almost all of the other stuff i mentioned.

those are my thoughts.

CasperIV

Yes, the old L28's can make this power, I made right around 210 with my old L26 in my 71. The turbo L28's can lay down 500HP without a huge amount of work. I checked the dyno sheet, it's 305 at the wheels. It's around 11.5 comp, the head was a customer P&P from a performance shop in washington, the block was reconditioned and sleeved, it's the N42 head I believe, the cams are welded and grinded by the same shop that did the rest of the head work I believe. From what I'm hearing the motors around $5000, which is more then 4x what I spend on my entire car. It maybe a stroker motor, people are pretty tight lipped about it.

One option I am toying with is selling my extra engine and stuff for my SW20 and maybe even the SW20, selling the FB, and trying to pickup an FD I have to check with my wife though, since I just bought the BMW a few months ago she might freak if I go spend another 10-15k on a car that makes no sense to drive in Oregon.

What I really need to know is if he can actually get traction or not. All the power in the world won't help if you can't get it to the ground.

The tracks just closed for winter, so we are going to have to push our race off either to next year or race on some country road (Not a good idea considering air temps and weather around here). Either way I'll post a video.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

wait. how the #$@^$ are you running high 14's??

on a stock port 12a with a 48 IDF weber, RB exhaust, light weight RB flywheel, centerforce clutch, no emissions, open diff, shitty tires, and a bad tune i ran a 15.3.

i was kind of expecting to get low 14's at the least with my current set up:

SP 4 port 13b with S5 N/A internals
dell 48
RB header with almost straight through exhaust
SE rearend
good suspension and sticky tires
weight reduction

im not building a drag car but ill be pissed if i run a high 14.

CasperIV

You will probably get low 14's depending on traction. Most of my problem was the air temp at the track on the last run where we pulled about 14.8 was around 105F and I could not get the thing to get traction at all. This engine wants to build power over 8k, but when I let it get up there it just spins the tires off going into 3rd.

I'm going to tweak and tune it some more and see if I can't pick up a set of slicks. I'm guessing we can get low 14's right now and high 13's with some dyno time to get this finished up. I think one of the biggest problems is the carb chokes.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

good. i was actually hoping to see a high 13. i know if i really wanted a drag queen, which i dont, id go with a holley, but thats not my goal. its just always good to be able to outrun friends and your bosses cars

wow..105F...damn. yeah, i wont have that problem. the night i run itll probably be in the 30-40 range.

Whizbang

should went with a BP and a 4.78 or 5.10!