Started New Sub Enclosure
#1
What?
Thread Starter
Started New Sub Enclosure
Well I started the dreaded bin sub enclosure. I know there are some out there that say it not a good place to put subs, but none have even tried it. Well I have!! I made templates of the sides and tops then made them out of 3/4" MDF. After fitting the wood pieces, I stapled automotive carpet inside and hardened it with fiberglass resign. I will put two more coats of resign then reinforce it with fiberglass. Each side well have a 12" Alpine ZR sub with about .65cuft of air space, perfect for these subs. I have some pics now and well update as time goes on.
John
since this site won't allow me to upload the pics, please email me directly and i will send you the pix
ejwalker@optonline.net
John
since this site won't allow me to upload the pics, please email me directly and i will send you the pix
ejwalker@optonline.net
Last edited by John64; 10-28-03 at 04:43 PM.
#2
GSL-SE PRO
iTrader: (2)
Just passed by this thread and I've done the sub box thing, pounds hard BUT plan to lose your hearing in your right ear. No jokes my right ear is fucked! So I might actually rip that **** out and just keep my 4 speakers in the stock locations.
Good luck, I remember it took awhile to finish mine but it'll look good I'm sure. My set up is just one 12 inch, due to weight concerns, your setup will be insane.... you'll like the results.
JIMMY
#4
'84 5-letter
iTrader: (5)
I can think of 3 ppl off hand who have done the storage bin subwoofer setup.
The reason it isnt as good as a rear mounted setup is because you are giving the sound waves NO room to resonate. I remember something like, it takes 18 feet distance for optimal resonance. by putting them directly behind you, 1 ft away, you are giving them about 2 ft (to your head). This is a quiet area of the sound range.
By putting them in the rear of the car, they can bounce up, then forward, then down to your head. this is maybe 10 ft distance (thats being generous), but thats better than 2.
However, i've never compared the two, just gone off of what pros have told me (mike p-28 used to be a pro car audio guy)
The reason it isnt as good as a rear mounted setup is because you are giving the sound waves NO room to resonate. I remember something like, it takes 18 feet distance for optimal resonance. by putting them directly behind you, 1 ft away, you are giving them about 2 ft (to your head). This is a quiet area of the sound range.
By putting them in the rear of the car, they can bounce up, then forward, then down to your head. this is maybe 10 ft distance (thats being generous), but thats better than 2.
However, i've never compared the two, just gone off of what pros have told me (mike p-28 used to be a pro car audio guy)
#5
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
I had some Becker 8" in the doors of my storage bins behind the seats. Redid the doors in plywood and and used steel hinges to mount it to the car in the factory spot. Put storage pin lights in there too, the storage pins remained completely functional
Sounded pretty good, had some BASS, we could feel the bass in the back of the seats and it didn't overpower our ears.
Sounded pretty good, had some BASS, we could feel the bass in the back of the seats and it didn't overpower our ears.
#6
What?
Thread Starter
These subs by Alpine only spec a max enclosure for a car of this size at .75cuft each. The min is .55cuft. They are ment for small enclosures, which one of the major reasons why i bought these 2 years ago at $275 a piece.
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#8
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.55 cubic feet? that's wrong man, that's like
6" by 6" by 6"
How in hell are you going to fit a 12" diameter minimum(cone only I might add) , probably 7 or 8 inch deep sub into a box that's 6 inch by 6 inch by 6 inch deep...?
Think before you believe everything you read...
*** Straight From Alpine's Website, talking about the new Type-R subs, the 12" "SWR-1241D" ***
Specs:
General-Subwoofers
Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Magnetic Weight : 89.4oz.
Mounting Depth (top mount) : 178mm (7”)
Mounting Diameter (top mount) : 275mm (10-7/8”)
Recommended Box Types : Sealed/Vented/Bandpass
Recommended Sealed Box Volume : 0.7 – 1.0 cu. ft.
Spider Material : Nomex
Voice Coil Diameter : 50mm
AND
For the SWS-1241D "Type S" Sub:
Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Magnetic Weight : 64oz.
Mounting Depth (top mount) : 164mm (6-1/2")
Mounting Diameter (top mount) : 274mm (10-3/4")
Recommended Box Types : Sealed/Bandpass
Recommended Sealed Box Volume : 0.8 – 1.5 cu. ft.
Spider Material : Nomex
Voice Coil Diameter : 38mm
My point: .25 cubic feet makes a huge difference.... there's a difference between .75 cubic feet and 1 cubic foot.... and .55 cubic feet, and .75 cubic feet
I rest my case....
6" by 6" by 6"
How in hell are you going to fit a 12" diameter minimum(cone only I might add) , probably 7 or 8 inch deep sub into a box that's 6 inch by 6 inch by 6 inch deep...?
Think before you believe everything you read...
*** Straight From Alpine's Website, talking about the new Type-R subs, the 12" "SWR-1241D" ***
Specs:
General-Subwoofers
Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Magnetic Weight : 89.4oz.
Mounting Depth (top mount) : 178mm (7”)
Mounting Diameter (top mount) : 275mm (10-7/8”)
Recommended Box Types : Sealed/Vented/Bandpass
Recommended Sealed Box Volume : 0.7 – 1.0 cu. ft.
Spider Material : Nomex
Voice Coil Diameter : 50mm
AND
For the SWS-1241D "Type S" Sub:
Diaphragm Material : Kevlar Reinforced Pulp
Magnetic Weight : 64oz.
Mounting Depth (top mount) : 164mm (6-1/2")
Mounting Diameter (top mount) : 274mm (10-3/4")
Recommended Box Types : Sealed/Bandpass
Recommended Sealed Box Volume : 0.8 – 1.5 cu. ft.
Spider Material : Nomex
Voice Coil Diameter : 38mm
My point: .25 cubic feet makes a huge difference.... there's a difference between .75 cubic feet and 1 cubic foot.... and .55 cubic feet, and .75 cubic feet
I rest my case....
Last edited by Keaponlaffen; 10-29-03 at 12:56 AM.
#10
What?
Thread Starter
No one got owned here. If anything I must embarrass keaponlaffen. Direct from Alpine techs= To have a balanced system (i.e. QTC of .7 if you know what that means tuff guy) my subs SWR-304E (not the subs you looked at) should have a sealed box of .64cuft unfilled or .55cuft filled 50% of fiber fill. A box measuring13.5x13.5x8 would give you that internal space. Now the box takes into consideration the displacement of the speaker too. Mounting depth of this sub is less then 6". Now that would tune the box to 87hz in a car that measures between 6' to 7.5' from the front glass to the rear. So MR tuff **** (16 yr old) do your research before you talk ****. Pedestrian X, I owned him
I love people that talk **** and have no clue. :
I love people that talk **** and have no clue. :
Last edited by John64; 10-29-03 at 07:46 AM.
#13
Rotors still spinning
iTrader: (1)
I did installation for 8 years professionally. I have won several IASCA and USAC World Finals and cars I have built have been published several times. I also built a van for Rockford 2 years ago. I worked at Expressive Audio. Our Intrepid, The Reaper, won a few championships in expert 601+ and it's successor, a PT Cruiser called the Reaper II won its share as well. Where am I going with this? I am NOT MECP certified and neither are any of the guys I've worked with. MECP means absolutely nothing! I can still install circles around most of the people out there and quite easily I might add. John this isn't a personal attack against you. It is just stating the point that you do not have to be MECP certified to know anything even though I do agree with you and he was flawed. I could pass the MECP exam anytime quite easily but I have moved on to bigger and better things and no longer have any need to. Not that I ever had a need for it in the first place. Please don't take this personally.
#14
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Ok, you were talking Net Volume, I was talking enclosure volume, big difference. If you want to talk net volume, then .6 cuft is about right for a QTC of .78 with your subs... that'll give you nice smooth bass. Fill is only supposed to allow for about a 20% smaller box, not 50%...
I found specs on your subs, which have a mounting depth of 5 and 1/4", and yes, a 6-7.5 foot interior would be tuned to 87Hz, and would demonstrate a good balance, not too "boomy" and not too tight.
Last thing, Personal attacks are lame on the internet, especially when you have to PM me to do it. I was being sarcastic with my original posts (which I am all the time, and it's hard to tell when I'm typing), I'm sorry if I came across as being a "tuff 16 year old" because I am not. I'm 18, doing my ELTT training for Heavy Duty Mechanics at UCC in Kamloops, and doing my electrical section right now actually. We just covered reactance to resistance and resistance to reactance in series and parallel circuits respectively. Not in depth, but enough. I have also done 3 custom installs in my own vehicles, as well as 2 others on friends' cars. All of which I built custom boxes, tuned to their cars. Mine was tough, I fit two pioneer 10's into a bench seat, regular cab Toyota 4x4.
Anyways, enough about it, build your storage bin box, mostly anyone who's done it before said it wasn't really worth it, and you get a much better sound if the subs are pointing straight up, or aimed from the back corners of the car (like in where the taillights are). I'll take what Mike-P-28 has to say before what you say, simply because he has more credit on the forum, that's just the way it works with me.
I found specs on your subs, which have a mounting depth of 5 and 1/4", and yes, a 6-7.5 foot interior would be tuned to 87Hz, and would demonstrate a good balance, not too "boomy" and not too tight.
Last thing, Personal attacks are lame on the internet, especially when you have to PM me to do it. I was being sarcastic with my original posts (which I am all the time, and it's hard to tell when I'm typing), I'm sorry if I came across as being a "tuff 16 year old" because I am not. I'm 18, doing my ELTT training for Heavy Duty Mechanics at UCC in Kamloops, and doing my electrical section right now actually. We just covered reactance to resistance and resistance to reactance in series and parallel circuits respectively. Not in depth, but enough. I have also done 3 custom installs in my own vehicles, as well as 2 others on friends' cars. All of which I built custom boxes, tuned to their cars. Mine was tough, I fit two pioneer 10's into a bench seat, regular cab Toyota 4x4.
Anyways, enough about it, build your storage bin box, mostly anyone who's done it before said it wasn't really worth it, and you get a much better sound if the subs are pointing straight up, or aimed from the back corners of the car (like in where the taillights are). I'll take what Mike-P-28 has to say before what you say, simply because he has more credit on the forum, that's just the way it works with me.
#15
What?
Thread Starter
I did not mean for this to get out of hand. And thanks for all the comments. I do agree that the certification is exaclty what it says. It does not mean that there are others out there that are better, because there are. I will try to give everyone the results of all of this, and I guess it is personal preference on the location. I just would like as much "trunk" space as possible.
I'm sorry for the personal attack, but you did come accross hard on your first post. I do take it back.
I started a page if anyone would like to see the pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/448049
I'm sorry for the personal attack, but you did come accross hard on your first post. I do take it back.
I started a page if anyone would like to see the pics.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/448049
Last edited by John64; 10-29-03 at 07:59 PM.
#17
Rotors still spinning
iTrader: (1)
Keaponlaffen: I hope you didn't think that I was attacking you personally because I wasn't. Just agreeing that there was an error there. Nothing personal though.
John: I wasn't attacking you either and I don't feel I am any better. It is the local punks that I like to show off around but I have never seen one here. I don't think you took it wrongly and I'm glad you didn't. I'm actually very curious to see new ideas in the industry. Your SE is beautiful. I have one too except I got the awfully ugly tan on brown color. Hey I bought it used and in mint condition for only $300. It was a great deal no matter what color it was. I haven't gotten around to installing a system in it. I have so many ideas and product lying around that I can never make up my mind. I'd love to see more pictures of your system as they become available. I have some ideas for mine but too little motivation and time to do it. I will say one thing though, I do fiberglass way different than you do. If you'd like to know a really good sealing tip let me know. It was a trick that I learned from Mark Fukuda when he owned F.A.S.T. here in Houston several years ago.
We're all friends here!
John: I wasn't attacking you either and I don't feel I am any better. It is the local punks that I like to show off around but I have never seen one here. I don't think you took it wrongly and I'm glad you didn't. I'm actually very curious to see new ideas in the industry. Your SE is beautiful. I have one too except I got the awfully ugly tan on brown color. Hey I bought it used and in mint condition for only $300. It was a great deal no matter what color it was. I haven't gotten around to installing a system in it. I have so many ideas and product lying around that I can never make up my mind. I'd love to see more pictures of your system as they become available. I have some ideas for mine but too little motivation and time to do it. I will say one thing though, I do fiberglass way different than you do. If you'd like to know a really good sealing tip let me know. It was a trick that I learned from Mark Fukuda when he owned F.A.S.T. here in Houston several years ago.
We're all friends here!
#18
In my past ReXes I had sub enclosures..3 amps, etc...
Got away from all that excessiveness...now for bass a 6" Bazooka fitting nicely cornerloaded next to the drivers side taillight...surprisingly clean sounding without the booming headache.. plus its tucked away and out of sight behind the stock carpet
Got away from all that excessiveness...now for bass a 6" Bazooka fitting nicely cornerloaded next to the drivers side taillight...surprisingly clean sounding without the booming headache.. plus its tucked away and out of sight behind the stock carpet
#19
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Originally posted by ioTus
I can think of 3 ppl off hand who have done the storage bin subwoofer setup.
The reason it isnt as good as a rear mounted setup is because you are giving the sound waves NO room to resonate. I remember something like, it takes 18 feet distance for optimal resonance. by putting them directly behind you, 1 ft away, you are giving them about 2 ft (to your head). This is a quiet area of the sound range.
By putting them in the rear of the car, they can bounce up, then forward, then down to your head. this is maybe 10 ft distance (thats being generous), but thats better than 2.
However, i've never compared the two, just gone off of what pros have told me (mike p-28 used to be a pro car audio guy)
I can think of 3 ppl off hand who have done the storage bin subwoofer setup.
The reason it isnt as good as a rear mounted setup is because you are giving the sound waves NO room to resonate. I remember something like, it takes 18 feet distance for optimal resonance. by putting them directly behind you, 1 ft away, you are giving them about 2 ft (to your head). This is a quiet area of the sound range.
By putting them in the rear of the car, they can bounce up, then forward, then down to your head. this is maybe 10 ft distance (thats being generous), but thats better than 2.
However, i've never compared the two, just gone off of what pros have told me (mike p-28 used to be a pro car audio guy)
My set up is:
Kenwood 8v Pre Out Head Unit
150x2 Sony amp bridged to power:
2 MA 10's in a competition bandpass box
MTX Road Runner powering:
2 6.5x Boston Pros with Crossovers in the Rear
2 5's 150 watt kenwoods in the front
All wired with Monster Cable
The amps are mounted in the storage bins for easy concealment (although it is pretty pointless with the huge bandpass box). Along with the grueling usual wiring nightmares... the setup required cutting the frame for the rear speakers... drilling in mounts bought at home depot to keep the subs in one place... custom smoked plexiglass saying "Zachstylez" to fill the space above the head unit... and some modifying of the 5's combined with silicone for the front install.
I am not sure how any of that relates to anything, however i think it has to do someting with how hard everything is already just with a normal install... so why work harder for less sound quality?
Zachstylez
#20
Rotors still spinning
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Zach: Don't take this wrong please. I have never seen a successful competition car with a bandpass box. They are generally more boomy and hollow sounding. For all out jam factor they are wonderful though. I had one several years ago that I designed and built that had one Orion XTR-12 in my 2nd gen. It was insanely loud with even just a little power but it couldn't cut it for a discriminating listener. If you like yours though, that is all that matters.
#22
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Originally posted by rotarygod
Zach: Don't take this wrong please. I have never seen a successful competition car with a bandpass box. They are generally more boomy and hollow sounding. For all out jam factor they are wonderful though. I had one several years ago that I designed and built that had one Orion XTR-12 in my 2nd gen. It was insanely loud with even just a little power but it couldn't cut it for a discriminating listener. If you like yours though, that is all that matters.
Zach: Don't take this wrong please. I have never seen a successful competition car with a bandpass box. They are generally more boomy and hollow sounding. For all out jam factor they are wonderful though. I had one several years ago that I designed and built that had one Orion XTR-12 in my 2nd gen. It was insanely loud with even just a little power but it couldn't cut it for a discriminating listener. If you like yours though, that is all that matters.
Zachstylez
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