1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

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Old 04-27-09 | 10:16 AM
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From: St Catharines, ON, Canada
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hey guys,

I have an '82 Rx7, ran great for 2 years, took care of it....like it. No problems during one Canadain winter, so i decided to store it last winter with stabil and the works. Went to start it, and she cranked but wouldn't go. Got my wife to crank it while I poured a tsp of gas in the carb with the choke in, and it started right away. It idled to 3K like normal and warmed up. I took it for a ride for about 15-20mins and it ran good. The idle was low after that so i adjusted the idle screw just a tad and it was fine. I went to start it for work 4 hours later and it wouldnt start.

The next day I replaced the plugs and air filter and i couldnt get it started again. So i charged my battery up, but still no luck, and I haven't tried the gas again. Sorry for the long description but i thought i would give the details. thanks
Old 04-27-09 | 10:27 AM
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Take a look at the fuel level in the sight glasses of the float bowls on the carb; one front, one rear (needa mirror for the rear one). Fuel level should be in the middle of the glass.

If you can't see fuel, probably the float needles are sticking - - common problem after storage, they get gummy from fuel varnish.

Sometimes rapping the top of the bowls with a screwdriver handle can knock theme loose.
Old 04-27-09 | 01:42 PM
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Assuming the teaspoon of gas gets it going again, pumping the gas pedal a couple times before you start it should have a similar effect. If it doesn't, then check to make sure the accelerator pump is working and spitting out gas when the pedal's pumped.

This won't fix anything if you've never had to pump the gas before, but if you used to have to pump the gas to get it to start it anyway, it's the first place I'd look.
Old 04-28-09 | 03:16 AM
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change your fuel filter!!!!

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Old 04-28-09 | 10:55 AM
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On the ball Stu.

Part of my routine when I bring the car out of storage is to replace both of my fuel filters. I run one in the stock location and one before the regulator, as added insurance. I'll probably replace them again in a month or two. Stock filters suck and they can get clogged if you look at them the wrong way. But on the other hand, they're very cheap, so it's almost not worth buying something better.
Old 04-28-09 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
On the ball Stu.

Part of my routine when I bring the car out of storage is to replace both of my fuel filters. I run one in the stock location and one before the regulator, as added insurance. I'll probably replace them again in a month or two. Stock filters suck and they can get clogged if you look at them the wrong way. But on the other hand, they're very cheap, so it's almost not worth buying something better.
lol, clog if you look at them the wrong way. I'll change mine this Friday after I finish my finals. What is the best way to make sure you don't drain your tank as you do this? Just use some vice grips and pinch off the line?

Besides that, I had similar trouble starting my FB after 6 months of winter storage. It took 3-4 starts with lubricated ether and some MMO down the carb to keep things extra lubed while using lubricated ether to get her to stay running with the choke. After that I put a can of SeaFoam in the tank and topped it off with fresh gas (put it away with ~1/8 tank with StaBil), and she hasn't given me any trouble since then.
Old 04-29-09 | 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by orion84gsl
On the ball Stu.

Part of my routine when I bring the car out of storage is to replace both of my fuel filters. I run one in the stock location and one before the regulator, as added insurance. I'll probably replace them again in a month or two. Stock filters suck and they can get clogged if you look at them the wrong way. But on the other hand, they're very cheap, so it's almost not worth buying something better.
Learned the hard way
Religiously change every spring when RX is resurrected...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
Old 04-29-09 | 12:29 PM
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ok guys, i checked by bowls and they are both @ 1/2.....which is good right?
i replacing my fuel filter today and ill post back my results. Any other suggestions in the meantime?

I should probably add this point too.....on the first start after the storage, my gas pedal was really stiff and i could hardly press it down. After some effort, i was able to push it down but it will not go to the floor, and it used to. Also, when it did start and i took it for a ride, i still could not push the pedal to the floor and i noticed that it did not have the same power as it used to have......just thought i would add that to my list of issues...thanks......awesome site too
Old 04-29-09 | 01:31 PM
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Sounds like you throttle plates or possibly the throttle cable are sticking. Some carb and choke cleaner carefully sprayed down the bores directed at the throttle shafts where they rotate might clear the gum out and free everything up. Although, its starting to sound like the carb could use a rebuild. You can do it yourself for cheap if you have the time and the know how. I hear it isn't too hard, as scary as it looks.
Old 04-29-09 | 01:33 PM
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From: Pittsburgh PA
Forgot this, make sure your choke flap opens and closes smoothly. Mine used to like to like to stick closed.
Old 04-29-09 | 02:58 PM
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How long was the car down for? Just 1 winter? I am in the process of reviving an old RX that sat for quite a while. The gas was just FUBAR. It was so bad it would not support ignition.
Old 04-29-09 | 03:17 PM
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it was down for only 1 winter
...so i replaced the fuel filter and now when i try and start it, i see the RPM's shooting to 1500-2000 like it wants to start, but now my battery is dead. I will charge up my battery and try her again. The choke flap is working properly BTW

one more thing guys, im looking to rebuild this motor and ive never done something like this before. If i get the DVD from Atkins, should a relatively technical person be able to this?? Thanks again
Old 04-29-09 | 11:11 PM
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Yes, rotary rebuilds are sooo much simpler than thier piston counterparts. I have the Rotary aviation rebuild vid, quite happy with it. Have yet to see the Atkins version. You should also have the FSM and even the Haynes manual handy for reference.

A successful rebuild lies in not only proper assembly, but also measuring and choosing the best used parts within the designated tolerences.
Old 04-30-09 | 12:14 PM
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I have the atkins rebuild video, its really good. You should be just fine.
Old 05-01-09 | 05:12 PM
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ok guys, here;s an update....

the only way i can start it is with gas down the carb. It will start and idle nicely to 3K with the choke, but when the choke pulls in, it will die. Then i struggle to start it back up.

I checked the main fuel line to the carb, and its flowing. Is there any kind of filter on the carb to filter the main fuel line??

I also cannot see a shot of gas when i look down the carb and give it gas. Will carb cleaner help me??

thanks
Old 05-03-09 | 01:28 PM
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From: Atlanta, GA
carb cleaner might help with the gas part. my 83 gsl wouldnt spit gas either. we tried spraying it with carb cleaner everywhere we could while the carb was on the car, but nothing really did it. i took the carb off, and rebuilt it for the first time in my life, and it fixed that problem. it was really pretty easy as long as you keep track of what goes where. and pictures as dissassembly takes place also is a big help.

heres some rebuild links that helped me:

http://www.rx7help.com/carb/carb-reb...build-diy.html

http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/re..._the_nikki.htm
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