DJAngelicon

Hey guys i was wondering someoen was telling me a while back about an oil that help stop some leaks from the engine. What was the name of it if anyone know of one?

Kentetsu

LOL. You mean the lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer? Stuff works great man...

Shamrock.James

you can also just jump up to a lower viscosity oil, it will plug the holes as it's thicker ****, but in the end these options are always going to be bandaid.

FB II

where is oil leaking from exactly? near the omp? oil pan gasket? the infamous rear end plate? you might be able to actually fix the leak instead of trying to go to a thicker oil.

DJAngelicon

The oil leak is between the front two plate of the engine on top near where it say 12A MAZDA. The other oil leak I can fix near the oil cooler which I think is a ring I have to change. The other one is near the omp which for what I was told is a common oil leak that is very very slow.

I know the one between the two plates at front the only way to fix it is a rebuilt. So trying to find options to actually slow down the leak as much as possible if not bandaid it.

Kentetsu

Okay. The Lucas helped me with the oil control rings. When decelerating in gear from anything over 4k I would start blowing lots of smoke, due to the oil getting sucked past the rings. I haven't had an issue since using the Lucas addative. I have no idea if it helps with external leaking though. Good luck...

leknaw69

iTrader: (30)

With your next oil change put a bottle of automatic transmission sealant in the engine. Do this a couple of time with your oil changes and it should take care of your end plates leaks and OMP leak. Trust me

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

They call that the leak of death but it's actually the leak of rebuild opportunites. That means porting.

Wankelguy

I like the way you think.

DJAngelicon

Hahaha, funny Jeff20B but true. The problem I can't rebuilt or port this car right now because is my daily driver. If I am down from my car that means down from work. Beside that don't you think is alot easier to just get a 13B or 13BT running engine and just swap them?

Hey leknaw69, thanks I will keep that in mind.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It's easiest to swap in another 12A that's already been rebuilt. All the parts simply swap over to the new engine. It could be accomplished in a day if you had everything ready such as all the tools you'd need like an engine crane etc, and a working knowledge of what to do.

If I knew as much about 1st gens as I do rotary trucks, I'd consider taking on your car as a short term project. Unfortunately, my 1st gen knowledge is limited. I don't even have a 1st gen to work on here. I also have way too many other projects going simultaneously so I shouldn't even think about such things right now.

DJAngelicon

Hey Jeff, what kind of stuff for the engine I would need to have a complete rebuilt? Is the Gaskets and is there anything else I might need? beside tools, crain etc...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Oh man, I'm not sure of everything you'd need. A typical shop setting would be a place to start. Let's see... compressed air, air tools, 54mm or 2 1/8" socket for the nut on the flywheel, torque wrench, socket and wrench sizes 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm, 23mm, 24 or 25mm, screwdrivers, clutch alignment tool, uh... stuff like that.

As for the gasket stuff, yes a complete gasket set around $100, oil o-rings, rotor seals (if necessary), rotor springs, rotor housings (if missing chrome), side plates (if step wear is too great), bearings maybe, stationary gears amybe, oil pump maybe... well, that's just the basics. You won't know what you'll need until the engine is torn down.

DJAngelicon

I c, thanks Jeff for the info.