Spec-7
#1
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Right near Malloy
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Spec-7
So I've heard it called as "Wreck-7"...
Lots of bumping and sliding into one another.
But it seems like a good cheap entry into racing. Pick up a running S or non-sunroof GS (Done), grab an AutoPower roll bar (done) and cut off the cats...
But if it's gonna be banged up, I'd rather not use body parts that're in good shape.
What's the worst lookin stuff you've teched in with? Mangled fenders, rusted doors, dented header panels, etc...
Why does everyone have good lookin' race cars with nice paintwork? Paint = expensive...
Lots of bumping and sliding into one another.
But it seems like a good cheap entry into racing. Pick up a running S or non-sunroof GS (Done), grab an AutoPower roll bar (done) and cut off the cats...
But if it's gonna be banged up, I'd rather not use body parts that're in good shape.
What's the worst lookin stuff you've teched in with? Mangled fenders, rusted doors, dented header panels, etc...
Why does everyone have good lookin' race cars with nice paintwork? Paint = expensive...
#2
^^^They have good looking racecars because they have the money to blow LOL. Spec-7/IT7 is a very viscious class. I've seen them race and I've seen modified stock class(just roll cage and non essential elements removed) and when the FBs start racing against the Miatas you don't want to be near. It's sick. But 30 straight piped 12As sound absolutely beautiful LOL. Kinda like a really big swarm of very angry bees LOL
#4
You would probably have more fun doing AutoX. You compete against time instead of bashing up your car. I presonally rather go to the local tack on the test nights and run as long as you want.
#6
If you don't have alot of money then forget about wheel to wheel competition racing. There is no such thing as racing cheaply. Even though running in Spec7 class is the most cost effective way of being involved, you will spend thousands in preparation before you will be allowed onto the track.
The closest thing that you'll be able to do on an open track is run on a weekend HPDE.
#7
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Right near Malloy
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
Originally Posted by RacerX7fb
If you don't have alot of money then forget about wheel to wheel competition racing. There is no such thing as racing cheaply. Even though running in Spec7 class is the most cost effective way of being involved, you will spend thousands in preparation before you will be allowed onto the track.
The closest thing that you'll be able to do on an open track is run on a weekend HPDE.
1985 GS, running - $250 (Already in front yard)
AutoPower roll bar - $150 (Already in back yard)
SNELL certified helmet - $80 (Google for "Snell helmet" JCWhitney has em plus some for cheaper.)
Race seat - $220 plus shipping ( IOportracing
What else do I need?
Probably need an e-brake cable and the carb tweaked, but aside from, I should be good.
EDIT:
****. Forgot about tires and wheels...
Diamond racing stamped steel wheels - $50 each (Total $200)
Hoosier R compound 205-60R13 tires - $100 each (Total $400)
Still looks like I'm below $1500
Last edited by Pele; 03-11-06 at 01:54 AM.
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#8
Not roll bar - cage ($1000+) Big difference. Also:
Competition belts with current dates. ($120)
Snell "SA" rated helmet, not the readily available and cheap "M" rating ($300)
Fire extinguisher ($60)
Multi layer fire suit - (not many below $500)
Fire resistant gloves ($100)
Fire resistant boots ($100)
Fire resistant sox ($40)
Fire resistant balaclava ($40)
Transponder - required alsomost everywhere ($350)
Thats just a begininng, and prices shown indicate the low end usually spent ....................
Competition belts with current dates. ($120)
Snell "SA" rated helmet, not the readily available and cheap "M" rating ($300)
Fire extinguisher ($60)
Multi layer fire suit - (not many below $500)
Fire resistant gloves ($100)
Fire resistant boots ($100)
Fire resistant sox ($40)
Fire resistant balaclava ($40)
Transponder - required alsomost everywhere ($350)
Thats just a begininng, and prices shown indicate the low end usually spent ....................
#10
Originally Posted by Pele
So I've heard it called as "Wreck-7"...
Lots of bumping and sliding into one another.
But it seems like a good cheap entry into racing. Pick up a running S or non-sunroof GS (Done), grab an AutoPower roll bar (done) and cut off the cats...
Lots of bumping and sliding into one another.
But it seems like a good cheap entry into racing. Pick up a running S or non-sunroof GS (Done), grab an AutoPower roll bar (done) and cut off the cats...
#13
Originally Posted by Lt. Dan
I know what track that is... hehe...
Personally, I'd go with auto crossing. While it may be expensive to get things up to spec, at least your car (if you decide to continue to keep it) will last longer due to the fact that the only thing you'd damage would be the orange cones. Also, I think you could only go so far into Spec-7 before they'd say your car is too damaged to continue to run. Plus, you might find it fun to race against the clock.
Last edited by 85 FB; 03-11-06 at 09:15 PM.
#15
Thread Starter
Right near Malloy
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From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
I'd replace ****, like front fenders and doors... People get rid of rusted doors all the time, as it's a common area to rust... Nothing would be the same color.
Rear quarters would be hard to replaced, I'd just drill holes and slap hammer it out and bondo over it shittily...
I guess auto-x it is... I just would like something a little faster... I went and watched soem HPDE last summer and was hooked.
Rear quarters would be hard to replaced, I'd just drill holes and slap hammer it out and bondo over it shittily...
I guess auto-x it is... I just would like something a little faster... I went and watched soem HPDE last summer and was hooked.
#19
Originally Posted by Pele
I guess auto-x it is... I just would like something a little faster... I went and watched soem HPDE last summer and was hooked.
#20
I suggest trying autocross and HPDE and decide what you like.
There are plenty of HPDE's that you can enter at Summit Point look at: www.carguys.com; www.bsr-inc.com; www.trackmasters.com and there are more.
I have raced Spec 7 in the Wash DC region of the SCCA since 1999 consistantly run at the front of the field and have only had contact once with another car requiring a visit to the body shop. However the nature of Spec racing be it SRX7 or Spec Miata is that contact is a greater possibility than some of the other classes that have a wider range of cars competing, however it takes 2 to tango so you have alot of control over the outcome. The governing body requires that the cars are clean and presentable for many reasons but mainly as a deterent against contact.
To me Autocrossing and HPDE/Roadracing are very different arts I personaly dont care for autocrossing if I had no other option I would do it but its just not my thing. HPDE's are a great way to get your feet wet and If you catch the disease and can't help yourself wheel to wheel racing is the next step.
If you decide road racing is your thing and your local to the DC area then SRX7 is the most cost effective way to go. There are a couple of ex DC region SRX7 drivers competing at the profesional level in world-challenge and grand-am and we are graced with the prescence of a couple of former SCCA national champions who come out and compete with us on a regular basis, so the competition is stiff. The cheapest way to go is to buy a built car and go from there. Crewing(read beer) for a driver is a great way to get involved in the community and get the contacts to make getting started much cheaper.
Schedule is at http://www.dlbracing.com/default.aspx?ClubID=40
Seeing 30+ 1stgens take the green flag is a wonderfull thing
There are plenty of HPDE's that you can enter at Summit Point look at: www.carguys.com; www.bsr-inc.com; www.trackmasters.com and there are more.
I have raced Spec 7 in the Wash DC region of the SCCA since 1999 consistantly run at the front of the field and have only had contact once with another car requiring a visit to the body shop. However the nature of Spec racing be it SRX7 or Spec Miata is that contact is a greater possibility than some of the other classes that have a wider range of cars competing, however it takes 2 to tango so you have alot of control over the outcome. The governing body requires that the cars are clean and presentable for many reasons but mainly as a deterent against contact.
To me Autocrossing and HPDE/Roadracing are very different arts I personaly dont care for autocrossing if I had no other option I would do it but its just not my thing. HPDE's are a great way to get your feet wet and If you catch the disease and can't help yourself wheel to wheel racing is the next step.
If you decide road racing is your thing and your local to the DC area then SRX7 is the most cost effective way to go. There are a couple of ex DC region SRX7 drivers competing at the profesional level in world-challenge and grand-am and we are graced with the prescence of a couple of former SCCA national champions who come out and compete with us on a regular basis, so the competition is stiff. The cheapest way to go is to buy a built car and go from there. Crewing(read beer) for a driver is a great way to get involved in the community and get the contacts to make getting started much cheaper.
Schedule is at http://www.dlbracing.com/default.aspx?ClubID=40
Seeing 30+ 1stgens take the green flag is a wonderfull thing
Last edited by tsbracer; 03-13-06 at 01:57 PM.
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