1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

spark plugs and wires question

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Old 04-24-10 | 07:25 AM
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spark plugs and wires question

Ok so I've come to realize that even with the 2g leading coil my ignition system is the weakest link in my engines performance right now. I've read threads and even seen vids of 1st gens with the 2g leading coil that just start instantly when the key is turned but that's not the case on my car so I'm not sure if my 2g coil is failing me or if i need better plugs and wires. I found some plugs and wires on ebay that i was thinking about getting and I just wanted some opinions.

Can I upgrade to these NGK's that say they're for a 13B?


or should I just get these NGK's that specifically say they're for a 1st gen?


Also I wanna go with 10mm plugs. Would either of these sets be fine?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Any feed back would be appreciated.

Thanks
Joe
Old 04-24-10 | 09:50 AM
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Nobody has an opinion or suggestion?
Old 04-24-10 | 10:22 AM
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idk, but there is a 24 hour limit on bumps. Don't make the mods angry...
Old 04-24-10 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by whitey85mtu
idk, but there is a 24 hour limit on bumps. Don't make the mods angry...
Sorry! def dont wanna upset anyone

btw i think ive been running with no trailing cuz the pos wire post for my trailing coil was corroded.
Old 04-24-10 | 10:51 AM
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I also would like some feed back on this, as it will help me deside which would be a better set up for my 84gsl....
Old 04-24-10 | 11:33 AM
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Ok, use the NGK plugs for the 12a not the 13b plugs. Probably will work the best
for you.

Both those ebay links to the 10 mm wires look like they are for HEI
type dizzy plugs which the 2G coil doesn't have. What you want are
spiral wound 8mm universal wire sets. They come with both dizzy boot
options usually so you can build HEI or non HEI wires up. Accell, MSD etc
all make sets like this. They carry them at Oriellys/Autozone etc. Usually
run you 40 to 60 bucks depending on what your getting. Since these kits
are always for v8s you could split the cost with another rotary buddy
who needs wires and get new wires an a great price.
Old 04-24-10 | 11:40 AM
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Would it hurt to use the 13b plugs? Or would I benefit any from using 13b plugs for the 2g coil and 12a plugs on the stock coil? Also wouldn't 10mm wires be better? Just wanted to ask cuz I know a lot of guys use 10mm. Btw thanks for the input.
Old 04-24-10 | 01:54 PM
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i've always used 13b plugs in my 12a....
Old 04-25-10 | 08:16 AM
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Certainly no expert on this, but I know I've seen posts on this.....It seemed like most guys said "use the plugs that were designed for the coil" ie...use the 2nd Gen plugs on the leading, and 1st Gen plugs on the trailing.
Old 04-25-10 | 11:49 AM
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I have the 13b plugs in my 12a. Starts up in a jiff.
Also, no trailing = no tach.
Old 04-25-10 | 04:46 PM
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Well as soon as I get paid I'm replacing the plugs with the 13b plugs I posted a pic of and getting 10mm wires. My tech still works so that must not be the problem but if the new plugs and wires don't make a difference I'm gonna unhook the 2g leading coil and go back to the stock leading coil.
Old 04-25-10 | 08:46 PM
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im still using the 12 a plugs with my 2g coil. was a good difference when i swapped over to it and runs great with them. but now im curious to whether the 13b plugs would help. dang u rx7 club for putting ideas in my head
Old 04-26-10 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeezus
I have the 13b plugs in my 12a. Starts up in a jiff.
Also, no trailing = no tach.
I have no trailing but still have tach. Explain?
Old 04-26-10 | 08:27 AM
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You have to remember that in order to get your car to start by just turning the key, there is more involved than just the coil/wires/plugs. You also have timing, and carb tuning to go along with that, and maybe another item or two I can't think of right now.

I built my own wires using a kit from Autozone, made by Accel. I believe they are 8mm, and since it is a DIY kit, I made them to the perfect length. It was easy to do, and cheap, and came out perfect. Much better than trying to find something prebuilt.

If I remember right, you are running a Nikki carb. Is that correct? If so, make sure that you go through Sterling's How to Tune Your Idle writeup. That is found at www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Make sure that your vacuum advance is hooked up (I route mine to the forward port at the base of the carb).

Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight at both ends. Proper grounding of the engine is very important for good spark.

Good luck.




.
Old 04-26-10 | 10:34 AM
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I think a really good ignition is what makes it start up with a twist of the key.
Since I did my TFIDFIS, the car starts cold before the crank finishes one turn
a lot of times. Its amazing and really drives home how important the ignition
is to a rotary running well.
Old 04-26-10 | 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
I built my own wires using a kit from Autozone, made by Accel. I believe they are 8mm, and since it is a DIY kit, I made them to the perfect length. It was easy to do, and cheap, and came out perfect. Much better than trying to find something prebuilt.
Thats how I made my wires as well. They were the spiral wound 8mm and they
look great and work great.
Old 04-26-10 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
I have no trailing but still have tach. Explain?
1980 tach is on leading.
Old 04-26-10 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
I have no trailing but still have tach. Explain?
When your trailing ignitor is shot, you have no trailing spark/tach.

I have no trailing either, but used the YG wire to connect to the MSD, viva la RPM!
Old 04-26-10 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeezus
When your trailing ignitor is shot, you have no trailing spark/tach.

I have no trailing either, but used the YG wire to connect to the MSD, viva la RPM!
My point exactly, the tach just needs to see the negative signal from one of the
coil setups. I just hooked mine the C connection on one of my leading HEIs to
get the tach signal.
Old 04-27-10 | 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
You have to remember that in order to get your car to start by just turning the key, there is more involved than just the coil/wires/plugs. You also have timing, and carb tuning to go along with that, and maybe another item or two I can't think of right now.

I built my own wires using a kit from Autozone, made by Accel. I believe they are 8mm, and since it is a DIY kit, I made them to the perfect length. It was easy to do, and cheap, and came out perfect. Much better than trying to find something prebuilt.

If I remember right, you are running a Nikki carb. Is that correct? If so, make sure that you go through Sterling's How to Tune Your Idle writeup. That is found at www.sterlingmetalworks.com

Make sure that your vacuum advance is hooked up (I route mine to the forward port at the base of the carb).

Make sure that the battery cables are clean and tight at both ends. Proper grounding of the engine is very important for good spark.

Good luck.




.
yep ive got the nikki carb its a 79.
Old 04-27-10 | 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
Ok, use the NGK plugs for the 12a not the 13b plugs. Probably will work the best
for you.

Both those ebay links to the 10 mm wires look like they are for HEI
type dizzy plugs which the 2G coil doesn't have. What you want are
spiral wound 8mm universal wire sets. They come with both dizzy boot
options usually so you can build HEI or non HEI wires up. Accell, MSD etc
all make sets like this. They carry them at Oriellys/Autozone etc. Usually
run you 40 to 60 bucks depending on what your getting. Since these kits
are always for v8s you could split the cost with another rotary buddy
who needs wires and get new wires an a great price.
could i just use the boots that on the wires im using now on the wires in the link?
Old 04-28-10 | 11:42 PM
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Vacuum advance question. I do this right?


Old 05-18-10 | 03:37 PM
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Got the 12a ngk plugs out and the 13b nkgs in and the difference is like night and day! Havin a hard time with the 10mm do it yourself wires cuz the spark plug wire crimper I bought isn't big enough for the huge wires. Might just set them aside for now and get some fd 10mm wires and a set of fc 10mm wires (the fd wires don't look long enough to reach the dizzy). Not sure what I'll be able to do about the wire from the trailing coil to dizzy but I'll figure somethin out.
Old 05-19-10 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
1980 tach is on leading.
^ This. 1980 emissions design shuts down the trailing ignition under some engine conditions (like acceleration below 3k rpm), so tach signal must come from leading or else it gets schizophrenic.

You have to deal with acommodating this when removing emissions from an '80, too.
Old 05-19-10 | 12:27 PM
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I'm with Kentetsu. I think to get it to start easy it's gonna involve timing and carburetion just as much as spark. I'm not saying you shouldn't upgrade your ignition... But if you have monster spark smoothing out your idle and low end and making it start easily it might be masking some carb tuning issues.

With my old tired 180,000 mile 12a i used to have, I could get it to start with just a tiny bump of the starter, and I had completely stock ignition. I just had the carb tuned well. You don't have to have upgraded ignition to have the car start and drive smooth. That said, I had an 85, and I realize the older ignition types were different, so of course you'l wanna upgrade your ignition. I'm just saying, tune that carb, you'll see a big difference from that too.


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