Soo They Stopped Making 12a Rotor Housing's...
06-07-09 | 01:51 AM
#28
the hard part about machining down 13b housings will be the fact that 12a's had the coolant o-ring grooves machined into the housings, you would have to use later 13b irons that had the o-ring grooves machined into them instead. so it will still be some kinda frankenstein motor. although, other than the length of the motor, everything would appear to be a 13b externally
06-07-09 | 02:07 AM
#29
glassman (NRS ceramic seals guy) is working on re-chroming housings and he's almost done with the process last I heard. He has a thread that he was contributing in on this forum
06-07-09 | 10:47 AM
#32
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Maybe it's because they haven't produced a 12A engined car in roughly two and a half decades?
I mean, jeez. Most other automakers, you're lucky if you can get parts for things over ten years old. If at all. There are a lot of engines were internal parts simply do not exist, "replace as assembly", and the aftermarket doesn't/hasn't/won't pick up the slack. How do you make service parts for an engine for which there is no service information?
I mean, jeez. Most other automakers, you're lucky if you can get parts for things over ten years old. If at all. There are a lot of engines were internal parts simply do not exist, "replace as assembly", and the aftermarket doesn't/hasn't/won't pick up the slack. How do you make service parts for an engine for which there is no service information?
06-07-09 | 12:03 PM
#33
Those are some photos of their re-chroming tests, looks REALLY good. Maybe it'll be a couple of years of testing them before offering the service. If the service costs less than that of a new 13B housing (~$600), I'm in.
06-07-09 | 01:28 PM
#34
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
http://members.shaw.ca/nrsrotorsports/photos.html
Those are some photos of their re-chroming tests, looks REALLY good. Maybe it'll be a couple of years of testing them before offering the service. If the service costs less than that of a new 13B housing (~$600), I'm in.
Those are some photos of their re-chroming tests, looks REALLY good. Maybe it'll be a couple of years of testing them before offering the service. If the service costs less than that of a new 13B housing (~$600), I'm in.
i also wonder about the tolerance, mazda has a unique 5 axis machine to grind the surface, they get to microns...
06-07-09 | 02:25 PM
#35
I think its more for housings that have been damaged by a blown seal, or if the original chroming was flaking off. From seeing all the trouble that NRS has went to in the past about making product, I think he would take the time to make as accurately as possible before making it reach the market.
06-07-09 | 05:01 PM
#36
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I think its more for housings that have been damaged by a blown seal, or if the original chroming was flaking off. From seeing all the trouble that NRS has went to in the past about making product, I think he would take the time to make as accurately as possible before making it reach the market.
If that is in fact what he's able to do, then I'm glad I hung on to every 12A rotor housing I ever had
I think I have six engines sitting in the garage right now, all blown to one degree or another, except for the P-port, which might as well be blown.I love 12As. However, I have come to realize that:
1 - 2mm seals are much kinder on rotor housings
2 - 2mm seals work at high RPM
3 - 12-pin rotors don't have gear problems like 9-pin rotors
4 - It's a lot easier to find two FC engines with cracked side housings than it is to find one 12A in good condition (see 1).
So as such, I'm playing with FC engines now. It's just time, it marches on, and as painful as change can be, it will happen whether one likes it or not. (Remember when I used to curse at people who put 13Bs in 1st-gens?)
06-07-09 | 11:11 PM
#39
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Chrome flaking, sure, but the engines I have seen that had 3mm seals that let go suggest that the housings are pretty much "done". The sheetmetal insert ends up getting a few substantial dents, so you'd have to some tricky fill-work.
If that is in fact what he's able to do, then I'm glad I hung on to every 12A rotor housing I ever had I think I have six engines sitting in the garage right now, all blown to one degree or another, except for the P-port, which might as well be blown.
I love 12As. However, I have come to realize that:
1 - 2mm seals are much kinder on rotor housings
2 - 2mm seals work at high RPM
3 - 12-pin rotors don't have gear problems like 9-pin rotors
4 - It's a lot easier to find two FC engines with cracked side housings than it is to find one 12A in good condition (see 1).
So as such, I'm playing with FC engines now. It's just time, it marches on, and as painful as change can be, it will happen whether one likes it or not. (Remember when I used to curse at people who put 13Bs in 1st-gens?)
If that is in fact what he's able to do, then I'm glad I hung on to every 12A rotor housing I ever had
I think I have six engines sitting in the garage right now, all blown to one degree or another, except for the P-port, which might as well be blown.I love 12As. However, I have come to realize that:
1 - 2mm seals are much kinder on rotor housings
2 - 2mm seals work at high RPM
3 - 12-pin rotors don't have gear problems like 9-pin rotors
4 - It's a lot easier to find two FC engines with cracked side housings than it is to find one 12A in good condition (see 1).
So as such, I'm playing with FC engines now. It's just time, it marches on, and as painful as change can be, it will happen whether one likes it or not. (Remember when I used to curse at people who put 13Bs in 1st-gens?)
06-08-09 | 02:02 AM
#41
Last I heard, he took a whole bunch of 12a's from Robert at rotary shack IIRC. I do also believe that glassman said he's going to get the 12a's working before the 13b's due the fact that they are discontinued. You might want to contact him and see what is going on and see if he's still taking 12a housings.
Chrome flaking, sure, but the engines I have seen that had 3mm seals that let go suggest that the housings are pretty much "done". The sheetmetal insert ends up getting a few substantial dents, so you'd have to some tricky fill-work.
If that is in fact what he's able to do, then I'm glad I hung on to every 12A rotor housing I ever had I think I have six engines sitting in the garage right now, all blown to one degree or another, except for the P-port, which might as well be blown.
I love 12As. However, I have come to realize that:
1 - 2mm seals are much kinder on rotor housings
2 - 2mm seals work at high RPM
3 - 12-pin rotors don't have gear problems like 9-pin rotors
4 - It's a lot easier to find two FC engines with cracked side housings than it is to find one 12A in good condition (see 1).
So as such, I'm playing with FC engines now. It's just time, it marches on, and as painful as change can be, it will happen whether one likes it or not. (Remember when I used to curse at people who put 13Bs in 1st-gens?)
If that is in fact what he's able to do, then I'm glad I hung on to every 12A rotor housing I ever had
I think I have six engines sitting in the garage right now, all blown to one degree or another, except for the P-port, which might as well be blown.I love 12As. However, I have come to realize that:
1 - 2mm seals are much kinder on rotor housings
2 - 2mm seals work at high RPM
3 - 12-pin rotors don't have gear problems like 9-pin rotors
4 - It's a lot easier to find two FC engines with cracked side housings than it is to find one 12A in good condition (see 1).
So as such, I'm playing with FC engines now. It's just time, it marches on, and as painful as change can be, it will happen whether one likes it or not. (Remember when I used to curse at people who put 13Bs in 1st-gens?)
06-09-09 | 12:54 AM
#44
Yeah - same here. You have to run a 12A to run in ITA or IT7. Where 13B's and 12A's are allowed - E Production and Super Touring U. - a 12A gets a weight break that is worth having.
Seems to me that the easiest way to "make" a 12A out of a 13B is to use all 86 and later parts. Narrow 13B housings and use irons that have the water seal groves.
Seems to me that the easiest way to "make" a 12A out of a 13B is to use all 86 and later parts. Narrow 13B housings and use irons that have the water seal groves.
06-09-09 | 11:33 AM
#45
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Besides the class-specific racers, there's still a few of us that 1) live in the People's Republic of California, and 2) actually try to stay smog-legal.
I couldn't do a swap to a 13b if I wanted to - - it's illegal, unless I wanted to completely gut and replace my engine management, electrical, and exhaust components. And then have to deal with referees and such forever.
I couldn't do a swap to a 13b if I wanted to - - it's illegal, unless I wanted to completely gut and replace my engine management, electrical, and exhaust components. And then have to deal with referees and such forever.
06-09-09 | 07:39 PM
#46
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We're All Fkd..
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From: Whittier,CA
that is another question of mine..since they stopped making them (housing's..) what's going to happen when a person like D.D. here when he doesent have any other option's? will they force him to retire the car..? or what will happen? an actual 13B smog leagal swap..which will only lead to more headache's as he pointed out already.
:AA:
:AA:
06-09-09 | 08:22 PM
#47
Technically, as long as you dont port a 6port 13-B motor or TII motor, you can make it street smog legal provided you have the stock smog components. Use an adapter plate to fit 12-A intake to a 6port motor. Most smog techs wont even know the difference between a 12-A and 13-B motors.
besides, with CA smog, it's not what you have...it is WHO YOU KNOW
besides, with CA smog, it's not what you have...it is WHO YOU KNOW
