durham877

first problem i think i can fix but want to know just in case
1. ok so i got up this morning and had to jump start the car no big happens alot. then i drove like 12 miles and turned teh car off went to start it well i hot nothing but the car attempting to turn over and over again. had to push start it agian. then drove to the beach and once there i got absoultly nothing when i turned the key and its been that way ever sence ive had no problem push starting and the car runs great. i think its just the starter needs to be checked on wireing but idk any sugestions?

problem 2 has been ongong for some time and theres no real problem i hope.
2. well the car when it started did fine and it kinda sputtered sounded as if when the roter made a revolution it would do so this was in nutral. while driveing it wouldnt sputter as long as i had a little gas going or if i was in nutral but if i just took my foot off the gas it would sputtre and kick back no performance problem just noise i hope?

if i was not descriptive enuf i apoligise please help i love this car and love working on it you guys are always a great help thanks.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

dooooooood! yer speling iss killeen us

Item 2 might be fuel filter. Ever change that? Should be done ONCE a year! $3 well spent.
Item 1 "might" be starter, but I'm willing to bet it could be dirty/corroded battery cables. When these go south all SORTS of starting/electrical weirdness can happen. If these are the original cables, replacing them would be smart. At the very least, thoroughly clean BOTH ends. If that doesn't do it, the starter is a very easy pull: 2 bolts, just NOTE WHERE THE WIRES ATTACH!!! Digi-pix are GOOD!! Take the starter into any automotive electric shop - they'll likely bench test it for free

Stu Aull
80SG
Alaska

Kentetsu

Sounds like two things going on:

1. Weak charging system, most likely due to corroded connections or the cables themselves corroded internally. Getting enough juice to the motor to run, but not enough to start. Also, hard starting could be due to timing if the starter spins the motor fine but it just won't "catch".

2. Carb needs a little tuning. Head over to www.sterlingmetalworks.com and read some of the tutorials like "how to tune the idle".

Good luck....


.

durham877

ok so about problem 2 i now get nothing when i go to start it just a click no buzzing or anything and i got another starter and its not working now im clue less as to what the problem is

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Your battery is now dead. You need to figure out why it's not charging; either you have bad cables or connections, or your alternator is failing.

AcidAngel7477

iTrader: (16)

word^^

:AA:

©ØÐËߣüË

iTrader: (1)

Bad Battery ='s bad alternator or battery cables

JKM

Yeah, checking the battery and alternator is easy though. You can take the battery and the alternator to most parts stores and they will test them for free. Naturally this means you have to remove the alternator, but it's stupid easy in these cars. After that, I would look at wiring.

My car had similar issues at different times, and there were two culprits. The first was a dirty/loose battery connection, I cleaned it up and tightened it and all was well. The second time it was the big negative cable that connects to the starter, the starter wasn't bolted in correctly and the car wouldn't crank sometimes, but you could reach under the car and wiggle it to get it to start. Easy fix was unbolting the starter and reinstalling it correctly.

Good luck, man, electrical issues suck *****.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

If you need a hand, give me a pm.

durham877

what do u think of the cilonoide being the problem. parden my spelling. and any ideas for a good mechanic near Milwaukie OR

tasty danish

iTrader: (5)

you asked for help and others have been telling you what to check, now check it.

It's obvious, with all the jump starts that your battery wasn't charging, and now you're surprised that you nuked your battery? c'mon... the starter isn't even in the equation here.

<this guy's money is on the alternator.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

If its not the alt look for things not turning off and draining the power. my uncles charger with the sliding light covers had a bind and weren't shutting all the way, causing the motor to keep trying to shut it, draining the battery.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The OEM battery cable , (neg, iirc), was aluminum wire. These are prone to corroding inside the protective plastic sheath where the corrosion cannot be seen. This will cause a good deal of resistance when current is applied, reducing the flow and heating the cable. A fresh pair of cables will solve that problem. This can also affect the solenoid.

mazda83

maybe it's flooded... check the other stuff the fellas mentioned... but yea charge your battery and try deflooding the motor manually... could be you spark plugs are wet...

durham877

ok well i know you guys are kinda having a hard time with me but i do not believe its the alternator i just replaced that and i don't think its the battery not being charged because i can turn the electrical on and have the wipers going and rolling the windows up and down as far a corrosion goes i just replaced the cables so thats why i have a hard time thinking its those problems because my meter inside tells me the batteries is charged and i get a plenty good signal what about the ignition switch being the problem.

do you think i should just take it to some mechanic.

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

Ok, so you have a new starter, new alt, new cables, and batterys reading charged. and its not starting. does it click when you try and start it? Give me a call before 3 and I can swing by around 6 oclock

Also you may want to check your fuses. sometimes its just somthing retarded

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

All the other stuff takes very little power compared to the starter. Bad battery cables can power all the other stuff just fine, but not flow enough to spin the starter.

When you try to start, do the voltmeter drop? do the warning lights dim? This can tell you if the starter is trying to engage. If nothing like that is happening, it could be the ignition switch or the solenoid. These wouldn't cause the need for jump starting like you were having to do...that sounds more like an alt or cable/terminal problem.

You didn't explain the other stuff to us before, so that is why we haven't followed you. It is important to explain everything related that you have done in testing/troubleshooting. We can't read your mind.

Even if the alt is new, it can still be bad. It could also not be wired up correctly. Another thing is that the battery could be bad (like a dead cell). Testing this stuff is free at most autoparts stores. Pull the battery and starter (both easy to do) and get them tested. Then move on to the alt, etc.

durham877

well im thinking that there is a slight possibility that the starter i got could be bad i did get it used so there could be the problem and i was an idiot and have made more work formyself now. no when i turn the key literaly nothing happens except for i hear the click of the ignition no dimming no change in gauges. and the problem is i cant tell if the starters even trying or not and i dont have the proper tools to check so im SOL in that department. and i havent been jump starting it i have only tried push starting it. i think i am just going to take it to my mechanic tomorrow so he can do the proper trouble shooting for me then i will do the work

thanxs again for all your help for being 18 and not knowing a whole lot you guys always seem to know how to help

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

yeah the starter draws a lot of power, when I lost my clutch hydraulics I had to put it in first and start the car to get it going. would even move the car up an incline. they have quite the power output

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

We all have to start from somewhere. I was 18 myself when I got my 7. Still have it (almost 14 years later).

Do you have some basic tools? Did you install the newer starter yourself or did you have it done? The best way to learn is to dive in and start working (and learning). Before you know it, you'll be able to rebuild the engine (or anything else on the car for that matter). Just have to get there in little steps.


I think that I have a spare ignition switch for you if you end up needing it. What year is the car?

durham877

thanks guys i got it working the damn thing was just missing the little top fuse thing if you know what i mean. but ya i know what you mean addict and it has helped alot and i have already leaen so much but i really want to thank jinxed he came out and helped me work on it hope to meet up with you other oregon drivers in the futer for now peace out

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

We've still got some work to do. that alt really needs to be tightened up a lot. and I'm fairly sure you need to have your smog pump belt hooked up if you have all the emissions bs in your car. we can yank that all out tomorrow, and you can put it back when you need to go through deq, since you have the spare parts car we can hollow out the cats on one and have the spares for deq. chances are the cats are already clogged and failed since you have no air being pumped into them. we'll need to take a trip to pineapple racing and get you a yahoo belt. you even have the spare intake and carb so you can have one striped for performance. not running your smog pump belt when you have all that bs in there will actually hurt the performance I think. Also we should do the mech secondaries mod. You will like it trust me. you get a small sputter sometimes but you wont even care. but you may have whiplash after doing it a bunch.

a little shopping list for you.
yahoo belt 15 bucks
ACV block off plate we can make one if you have a hack saw and some aluminum sheet metal pineapple sells them too I believe
3 m6 15mm long bolts
a bunch of vac plugs about 8 bucks
gasket for your intake manifold probably 10 bucks?
some JB weld 5 bucks

call pineapple tomorrow and see about the gasket, and acv block off plate. http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...tion=CONTACTUS

Either way tomorrow we'll hollow your cats and hook you up with mech seconds

jinxed4dub

iTrader: (7)

also is your voltmeter reading 12 volts now that we swapped negative cables? Will also get the positive in there tomorrow also. anyone know what would cause the volts to read about 9 volts besides cables? It read the same when my battery was in there.

AntonL

iTrader: (2)

could be a busted ignition. where you put the key. i think its ignition. mine had this same exact problem, minus battery dying. took a few hours and some JB weld and its like new.