Would like something that doesn't fail and doesn't wear out too quickly. Once I put it in I do not want to dig it out any time soon.

Mostly track with mild street use, pretty much stock motor with some mods, so I don't need to hold 600 ft/lbs. That said, I want something crisp, with good pedal feel. Probably Stage 1 or equivalent. Best if no marcel springs.

Looking over the search results and available options, I can't decide on the brand. Do Action Clutch still make RB clutches, or is it Clutchnet? Who makes the Mazdatrix ones? Which ones are better? Also considering Exedy or ACT. I have ACT in my MX-3, and it's been great so far. Survived 2 years of track abuse and Seattle hills. The downside is the price, but it's not really a downside, because it's usually save-now-pay-later anyway, so might as well shell out up-front and not worry about. The question is do I really need to?

 

RB's "heavy duty" street/strip discs, at least, are made by Clutchnet now. Avoid them like the plague unless you like changing clutches every 5,000 miles or so.

I'd suggest an RB (Exedy) street/strip pressure plate with a stock disc. Easy to drive, lasts well, holds well, and won't break the bank. A friend used that setup on his supercharged FB for years without issue. I'm also very satisfied with my Centerforce Dual-Friction setup, but I haven't used it long enough yet to know how long they last.

 

I've got a HD street/strip pressure plate and exedy clutch setup for sale. It was used for around 3-5,000 mi. I'll take $100 shipping included.83-88 12a and non-turbo13b

 

good deal!

 

That is a good deal, but I'm not really in the market for a used clutch. Why are you selling? Who's the manufacturer and who did you buy it from?

 

I purchased a new setup before I bought my current fb. This setup came on my fb when I bought it, so I have no need for it, other than to have a spare. I need other parts to finish my build, so I'm Doing what I can to drum up funds. I'm pretty sure that the pp is the hd one from Racing beat and the clutch disk is a dual spring s/s from Exedy.

 

I have heard good things about Spec clutches and the stage 1 kit is only $285 new from their website. http://www.specclutch.com/cars/Mazda/RX-7/1983/Single They are supposed to be very streetable with stock like pedal effort.

 

Ok, I see. Though if it came with the car, how can you be sure of the mileage? Just a surface estimate? Can you tell me for sure it's the RB HD plate? I don't know what their plates look like, so I can't judge... Is there a number on it? If I buy used, I gotta know exactly what I'm buying.

 

I know the guy that I bought the car from, so the mileage is pretty spot on. I'll check on the pp for you and post something this afternoon

 

Cool.

 

Hey, I can't find anything via the# on the pp It could be a Racing Beat hd plate. I can't remember if their's are white or not. It is an hd plate, though.

 

I got the Centerforce Stage II clutch setup from Mazdatrix aabout
3 years ago and I really like it. Grabs good but has mild manners.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.asp?partnum=CFT374138

 

Hmm... Out of the two I'd probably only use the PP, and clutch would at best be a spare, like it is for you, since I don't really know the guy who owned the car and how he drove it, but more likely I'd never put it on the car. I'm getting a brand new flywheel, so I'd hate to throw a used clutch on it. I'd rather get a new clutch. The PP's got the same mileage as the clutch, yeah? If someone here can confirm what pressure plate it is, I might be interested in it, but not the clutch. Or do you only want to sell them as a package?

 

That's what I did with my build.... New lightened steel flywheel hd pp and street/strip clutch. just know that if you go with an aftermarket flywheel, make sure it comes with the ring gear fitted to it and you'll have to have the same series rear counterwieght from an auto trans. As for used clutch and pp, I would like to sell, or trade them as a set. Thanks for your interest.

 

is the car turbo or non?

non turbo no matter what you do, you're not really increasing torque, so you can almost just run a stock clutch, or maybe an iron cross on stock PP if its a track car.

with a turbo you're increasing torque, so you need a beefier clutch. i like the ACT HD stuff for the t2's...

 

Big +1

My racecar has had the same Center Force Dual Friction 215mm clutch for 8-9 years. No wear, no chatter....super smooth with a very positive operation. While the engine is a stock port 12A, I promise you that it is a very strong running engine. Also, club racing is super abusive....downshifts are quick and made under heavy braking - all upshifts are at 8000+ RPM's.

Best $300 you can spend and unlike the no-name Racing Beat/Ebay clutches you know who makes this item.

 

We installed a Center Force Dual Friction 215mm in PercentSevenC's FB and it has worked very well. We first ran it with a Camden 7" SC on his streetported 4 port 13B that boosted up to I think 9 pounds. Worked fine. Now he's going turbo.

The 7" SC is going on my extend ported 4 port 13B. I'm still debating whether to run a 225mm SS p-plate, HD disc and stock FC 24 pound flywheel (it's got an '86-'88 9.4:1 NA rotating assembly), or swap in a rear auto counterweight and run the aluminum flywheel and 215mm components like before. I didn't really like it while NA, but while SCed, had its moments. I know 84stock likes the stock FC flywheels for better launches, with an SC. I know this engine does well with an RB Holley in NA mode with the FC flywheel. Hmm...

 

I see. Yeah, I'm not running any turbos. Just N/A 13b. Seems like Centerforce Dual Friction would be overkill, since it has way more clamping power than I'll ever need, but Stage II might be alright.

 

The Dual-Friction might be more than you need, but if it's drivability you're worried about, don't be, because it's really quite well-mannered. Pedal effort isn't too heavy (just about perfect for me, actually) and while it's a bit grabbier than stock, it's still very controllable. You can slip it when you need to, it bites hard when you want it to, and I've never experienced any chatter at all. Even on Seattle hills in traffic with an 8 lb. flywheel, I've never found myself wishing it was easier to drive. Assuming it lasts a while, I'll probably get another one when this one's done because I really like it.

 

I have used my 215mm center force clutch on a stock 79-82 iron flywheel (required in IT7) and it was not heavy at all. Felt like a street clutch. I now have this clutch on a light weight steel flywheel - I am running in STU now - and it is also easy to drive. I ran a solo after installing this flywheel/clutch and I noticed that I needed to rev the engine a little more to get going but nothing real extreme. I do have a 4.88 rear end so this probably helps make my car easier to drive with a light flywheel.

I also have a 225mm Center Force DF that I have used with a stock flywheel. Again it is an effortless piece. We have used Center Force clutches on alot of street and race cars and they just flat work.

By the way, I highly recomend running a light flywheel for track day use. Besides the better acceleration, down shifts are so easy to make. The light flywheel makes rev matching a breeze and this has got to easier on the transmission.

 

Yeah, I'm getting a lightweight flywheel.

Thanks for the info on Centerforce. It's starting to sound rather appealing, only thing I'm still unsure of is if the performance and feel difference between Stage II and DF is enough to justify the higher price in my particular case.

 

I would have to say a CFDF is better because I've experienced one. Plus I don't know what a stage II is.

I've decided to go with an aluminum flywheel on my setup with the Camden 7". I figure the extra spinning mass of the SC will make the aluminum feel more like a light steel flywheel. Gonna try a stock 225mm disc and an SS p-plate. I had to get some longer bolts to match the step of 225mm pressure plates. I also have to make some spacers and clearance the upper edge of the flywheel.

 

Centerforce Stage II clutch kit. There are 3 options: Stage I, Stage II, and DF. Stage II is rated equivalent to HD.

 

Has anyone had any success with the RB/Clutchnet setup? Reason I ask is that I have one that will/was(??) going in real soon. From what I recall, I think I had read a lot of posts in the past from people saying to avoid the Centerforce setups.

 

That was in the past. Now-a-days it seems centerforce is dopish.

I just got done with the 225mm mod to my no-name aluminum flywheel. The friction surface is a full 225mm but it was never clearanced for the later 225mm p-plates that have a rivit that tends to bottom out on the upper lip. I think the earlier type could be used, but looking at one I have here, it still sticks out a bit where the rivit is.

I had some 1/4" aluminum plate and a bunch of waterpump washer/shim things. I cut out some 3/4"x3/4" squares, drilled 5/16" hole, rounded them on a grinder so they resembled the spacers from RB, and stacked two waterpump shims on each one to give proper thickness. I used a good low mileage 225mm stock Daikin disc measuring at 8.6mm uncompressed thickness. I had to get some 1/4" longer bolts. It's all together and looking fine. I'll drop it in the car tomorrow and test for pedal effort, pedal travel and friction point.

I already tried this aluminum flywheel with an old worn (about 7.5mm thick) 225mm HD disc and an old 215mm RB SS p-plate. The flywheel needs to be resurfaced because it has some wear in a 215mm pattern; there is a 5mm raised outer edge. The disc, being 225mm and of the HD variaty, is fairly ridgid and wasn't too harsh on the left leg when I first started using it, but over the course of a couple months it wore down its outer edge on the raised lip of the flywheel and pedal effort increased a lot. The disc was already about half way through its life on a good day, so combining its wear with the prexisting wear on the flywheel caused the pedal to feel like I was driving a completely worn out disc of only 7.0mm or so; except it never slipped lol. I can thank the SS p-plate for that.

It is my goal to have an easier pedal, but with greater holding power. I believe a 225mm SS p-plate on a new stock disc will accomplish this. I'll get the flywheel resurfaced later and go with an HD disc again if I need it.