Smog check failed
#1
Smog check failed
I am in san francisco.
Smog check to sell my car to potential buyer for $1700.
This car has 187K miles, 50K on new engine, brand new clutch ? 1983 limited edition.
Everything passes except HC(ppm) in IDLE speed, maximum allowance is 120, but Mine showed 131.
How about changing oil ? What about using better premium gasoline ? would it help ? Thanks.
Please help. What should I do ?
Smog check to sell my car to potential buyer for $1700.
This car has 187K miles, 50K on new engine, brand new clutch ? 1983 limited edition.
Everything passes except HC(ppm) in IDLE speed, maximum allowance is 120, but Mine showed 131.
How about changing oil ? What about using better premium gasoline ? would it help ? Thanks.
Please help. What should I do ?
Last edited by hienpham2; 04-16-03 at 05:47 PM.
#2
My SE passed smog last week with flying colors.. never had a problem passing smog inspections in Cali ever.. when my car is bone stock
Check to see if the cats are functioning well..and the ACV, adjust the air/fuel mixture as needed and see if the OMP is set properly as well.. give it a good tune up..change oil, plugs, aircleaner, etc.. give the car a good hard WOT run before it gets put onto the dyno again to help burn off all the crud. If this doesnt work.. you may have to pull off the intake manifold and clear out all the carbon and dirt buildup in the air passages in the center housing...no air going through there means the air pump cannot do its job which equals dirty emissions and maybe give it the ATF treatment. Stick to regular gas on your N/A. Hope this helps some.
Check to see if the cats are functioning well..and the ACV, adjust the air/fuel mixture as needed and see if the OMP is set properly as well.. give it a good tune up..change oil, plugs, aircleaner, etc.. give the car a good hard WOT run before it gets put onto the dyno again to help burn off all the crud. If this doesnt work.. you may have to pull off the intake manifold and clear out all the carbon and dirt buildup in the air passages in the center housing...no air going through there means the air pump cannot do its job which equals dirty emissions and maybe give it the ATF treatment. Stick to regular gas on your N/A. Hope this helps some.
#3
You got me here.
Where is the ACV, what is it ? What is OMP ? how do I adjust the air/fuel mixture ?
Where is intake manifold ? Where is air pump.
Oh boy, it's time to look at this under the hood..
Guys, I am a newbie when it comes to fixing RX7.
Where is the ACV, what is it ? What is OMP ? how do I adjust the air/fuel mixture ?
Where is intake manifold ? Where is air pump.
Oh boy, it's time to look at this under the hood..
Guys, I am a newbie when it comes to fixing RX7.
#5
I live out here in Tracy and we're lucky enough to have smog 2 here. Mine also failed and I've traced it down to the acv. Check my post on about page 4 and there are some good ideas to pass the test there. I would suggest getting a haynes book, there are some good t/s ideas in there and watch ebay for factory book that expands on what the haynes doesn't have. Good luck!!
#6
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by hienpham2
OK,
SO I decide to lean this sucker. There is a screw under the carburator, small, with a cross on top, stiking out. Is this for Idle or is this for mixture ? Thanks.
OK,
SO I decide to lean this sucker. There is a screw under the carburator, small, with a cross on top, stiking out. Is this for Idle or is this for mixture ? Thanks.
mike
#7
Mike thanks.
I was thinking of changing the air filter to let air in more efficiently, also, I was thinking of doing the spark plugs as well, so it will burn more efficiently. Can you recommend an inexpensive type of spark plugs ?
For the mixture screw, in order to lean it out, should I turn it out couterclockwise or should I turn it inward clockwise ? I notice that if I turn it in (clockwise), it chokes, coughs pretty rough.
I was thinking of changing the air filter to let air in more efficiently, also, I was thinking of doing the spark plugs as well, so it will burn more efficiently. Can you recommend an inexpensive type of spark plugs ?
For the mixture screw, in order to lean it out, should I turn it out couterclockwise or should I turn it inward clockwise ? I notice that if I turn it in (clockwise), it chokes, coughs pretty rough.
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#8
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally posted by hienpham2
Mike thanks.
I was thinking of changing the air filter to let air in more efficiently, also, I was thinking of doing the spark plugs as well, so it will burn more efficiently. Can you recommend an inexpensive type of spark plugs ?
For the mixture screw, in order to lean it out, should I turn it out couterclockwise or should I turn it inward clockwise ? I notice that if I turn it in (clockwise), it chokes, coughs pretty rough.
Mike thanks.
I was thinking of changing the air filter to let air in more efficiently, also, I was thinking of doing the spark plugs as well, so it will burn more efficiently. Can you recommend an inexpensive type of spark plugs ?
For the mixture screw, in order to lean it out, should I turn it out couterclockwise or should I turn it inward clockwise ? I notice that if I turn it in (clockwise), it chokes, coughs pretty rough.
mike
#9
change the plugs.. put in some GTP. Lean it out a little. Up the idle a little, too, maybe. It'll fly through, you just barely failed.
If you're feeling really ambitious, pull the air cleaner off, have an assistant hold the engine at 3500RPM and spray carb cleaner into the carb for a while (He'll have to try pretty hard to keep the car from dying, I suspect)
THEN change the plugs.. I'd be willing to bet it'll fly through.
Make sure the cat isn't cold when you go for the test, too... the hotter the better
If you're feeling really ambitious, pull the air cleaner off, have an assistant hold the engine at 3500RPM and spray carb cleaner into the carb for a while (He'll have to try pretty hard to keep the car from dying, I suspect)
THEN change the plugs.. I'd be willing to bet it'll fly through.
Make sure the cat isn't cold when you go for the test, too... the hotter the better
#11
Buyer backed out because his mechanic doesn't know much about fixing RX7. So I told him about the knowledgeable people here on this forum. I hope he finds his way here.
He also introduced me to his co-worker who knows all about RX7, and one look at my car, he got very excited. He said he never saw one first gen RX7 that has engine this smooth. Well, it's the 2nd engine with only 50K miles. Said he will contact me tomorrow for a test drive.
He also introduced me to his co-worker who knows all about RX7, and one look at my car, he got very excited. He said he never saw one first gen RX7 that has engine this smooth. Well, it's the 2nd engine with only 50K miles. Said he will contact me tomorrow for a test drive.
#12
as far as spark plugs go... never use anything other than NGK's
A trick that helped me out... Isopropyl alchohol. 5 oz in a full tank. (same stuff in Heet brand de-icing fuel system agent) Probably can't find Heet there in San Fran, but it worked up here in Spokane.
Good luck!!
A trick that helped me out... Isopropyl alchohol. 5 oz in a full tank. (same stuff in Heet brand de-icing fuel system agent) Probably can't find Heet there in San Fran, but it worked up here in Spokane.
Good luck!!
#13
I'm due for my first and last e-test for my car.... I think its going to fail, but we'll see.... I've also heard that ethanol blended fuels help reduce emissions too. You might want to give that a try
#14
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
dude if its only out by 20pppm then you dont need any fancy stuff, my 83 with uneven compression, good acv, airpump and main cat passed with flying colors. if the stock stuff is working it will pass
mike
mike
#15
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