Shutter Valve
#1
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Shutter Valve
Anyone know the proper adjustment procedure for the shutter valve? Having probs with my car. (and please dont send me the famed shutter valve pic cpt glovel, mine doesnt suck at idle)
#3
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I don't think there is an adjustment... it either works properly or is messed up.
I'm getting annoyed at mine... I know that's where the problem is because it makes a heavy sucking sound and idles on one rotor at about 500rpm, then if you blip the throttle the noise goes away and it idles relatively smoothly for a lil' while. A little bit of wire should fix it
I'm getting annoyed at mine... I know that's where the problem is because it makes a heavy sucking sound and idles on one rotor at about 500rpm, then if you blip the throttle the noise goes away and it idles relatively smoothly for a lil' while. A little bit of wire should fix it
#4
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i belive the vaccum signal from the shutter solinoid valve is turned on by the signal from the emissions computer reading off the TPS. You can adjust the tps using the two light bulb method. You can also check the shutter solonoid valve for operation by connecting 12V to it and blowing through it. These are both coverd by the Haynes and the Mazda FSM.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#5
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Re: Shutter Valve
Originally posted by Steve Shulz
Anyone know the proper adjustment procedure for the shutter valve? Having probs with my car. (and please dont send me the famed shutter valve pic cpt glovel, mine doesnt suck at idle)
Anyone know the proper adjustment procedure for the shutter valve? Having probs with my car. (and please dont send me the famed shutter valve pic cpt glovel, mine doesnt suck at idle)
There is no adjustment that I'm aware of. It works or doesnt. It runs off vacuum signal, no electronics involved.
#6
Old [Sch|F]ool
I'm STILL trying to picture how it works.
OK so when it sees high manifold vacuum (I'm assuming from the front rotor) from the little hose, it sucks on the diaphragm. The diaphragm opens a valve that allows air to go from the air cleaner (the infamous finger pic ) to the big vacuum nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold (where the hose likes to get cooked by the exhaust and crack and cause a vacuum leak). At the same time the diaphragm also pulls the lever on the shutter valve shaft, closing the butterfly. The net effect is that under deceleration, air from the carburetor is shut off to the rear rotor by the butterfly and pure air is sent to the rear rotor, the purpose of which is better fuel economy, less backfiring, and no engine jerking back and forth when delecerating in gear.
Do I got it?
You gotta understand how something is supposed to work before you can start to figure out when it stops working!
OK so when it sees high manifold vacuum (I'm assuming from the front rotor) from the little hose, it sucks on the diaphragm. The diaphragm opens a valve that allows air to go from the air cleaner (the infamous finger pic ) to the big vacuum nipple on the bottom of the intake manifold (where the hose likes to get cooked by the exhaust and crack and cause a vacuum leak). At the same time the diaphragm also pulls the lever on the shutter valve shaft, closing the butterfly. The net effect is that under deceleration, air from the carburetor is shut off to the rear rotor by the butterfly and pure air is sent to the rear rotor, the purpose of which is better fuel economy, less backfiring, and no engine jerking back and forth when delecerating in gear.
Do I got it?
You gotta understand how something is supposed to work before you can start to figure out when it stops working!
#7
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What is the adjustment screw on the front of the carb passenger side? Is that for the air pump? If so, whats the adjustment for it, ie, idle on 2k off, on again at 4k or what. LMK
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#8
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I said I am unaware of any adjustments to it.. There may be one that I dont know about... I don't know much about the shutter valve because mine was broken when I got the 7 and has just since been disabled.
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