Should i give up on rx7's?
#1
Should i give up on rx7's?
Am i doing something wrong here all i want is a rx7 then i can modify and have fun with but all the cars i text or email about go nowhere they respond and right when we are about to close a deal they disappear and stop returning my texts. My last guy out of the blue turns into a ***-hole for no reason and turns on me here is what he said, So sorry, you got to be kidding me right? You call me and just sit on the phone saying nothing like I need to keep the conversation going, you are obviously a dumb ***. Now go away! or should I say go back to where you came from......, For some reason i can't just can't get anything right with these rx7's i buy a worthless piece of crap one i sunk 4k into before i figured out it was a money pit, I pissed almost everybody off here with all my threads and questions. I don't know maybe i should just give of on these rx7's altogether what do you guys think these cars are suppose to be fun not giving me all this anger.
#2
I think your trying to hard and trying to close deals or negotiate over the phone. It takes a lot of legwork and looking to find the right one. When I find one I think is worth viewing, the only thing I want from the seller at that point in time is an address where I can inspect it.
I still say buy one from a seasoned forum member that has sorted all the problem out. Unlike some seller on your favorite selling list, we don't want to see anybody get burned by purchasing a piece of crap.
<Cheap Plug> Check out my 1985 GSL-SE that for sale in my signature. </Cheap Plug>
I still say buy one from a seasoned forum member that has sorted all the problem out. Unlike some seller on your favorite selling list, we don't want to see anybody get burned by purchasing a piece of crap.
<Cheap Plug> Check out my 1985 GSL-SE that for sale in my signature. </Cheap Plug>
#3
Yeah I agree, your going at it way too hard. Really the only reason to talk to some one on the phone about a car is to ask if they still have it, and when can I come look at it. All else should be done in person after you fully look over the car period, unless you just have money falling out of your butt, then you can just buy every one you see for sale until you peg a good one.
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#11
The secrete to buying anything is that as the buyer, you have all the control. The number one thing I tell people that want to purchase a car is that they have the ability to just walk away. If a deal isn't what you expect, walk away. Regardless of how much you might want a car, the ability to walk away gives you the upper hand. I've had to do it myself even though I really wanted the car.
One thing to keep in mind, you already have a relationship with us on the forum. We know about your trial and tribulation with trying to purchase an RX-7 and you know us from our various post.
If you where closer, I'd be able to look at cars with you and show you some good techniques and what to look for. What you need is a male mentor where you live that can help.
#12
People who communicate only via text are generally considered flaky. Trying to negotiate a price that way and the seller will think you're not serious and a waste of time. I don't know about building a relationship with the seller, but you need to show you're serious and ready to buy, meaning to meet in person.
#13
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I would add to the above: If you are not ABLE and WILLING to meet the asking price IF the item for sale is in exceptional shape, then don't even bother to call and waste the seller's time.
When you try to "negotiate" over the phone, or as would be more honestly phrased "when you try to lowball someone over something you've never seen," you have a very high chance of just pissing them off.
The RE society is a pretty close-knit bunch; if you **** enough of them off, word does get around.
Assuming that an asking price is unrealistic & that you will OF COURSE be able to buy an item for less, sight unseen, is pretty much the same thing as calling the seller an unrealistic idiot to his face. It's not a good tactic.
Also, attempting to negotiate a lower price on something that you personally don't know very much about, when the seller does, is not bargaining from a position of strength. The proper approach is to do your research FIRST, THEN start trying to buy something. Don't start up a negotiation and then string things along for days while you ask a dozen other people what they would do, as the seller is going to lose patience with you.
For example, if I decided that I just HAD to buy a vintage juke box (which I know next to nothing about) I would start off by learning all the important factors that play into the pricing and valuation of these collectible items, before I ever answered an ad. It's the only way to avoid being either a) taken to the cleaners, or b) offending a seller who might otherwise be open to some reasonable negotiation.
As KCREPU said, as a buyer you have power based on you don't HAVE to buy something - you can walk away. But the seller also does not have to sell to you, and he doesn't have to lower his asking price for you either.
You have to make him decide he wants to.
TL;DR version:
1) Know your **** before you negotiate
2) See the item in person before you negotiate
3) Be able to at least consider paying the asking price before you waste a seller's time (unless they are asking 'or best offer.)
4) Remember that even though you are the customer, you have to sell the seller on your offer. He doesn't have to take it; he doesn't even have to talk to you.
When you try to "negotiate" over the phone, or as would be more honestly phrased "when you try to lowball someone over something you've never seen," you have a very high chance of just pissing them off.
The RE society is a pretty close-knit bunch; if you **** enough of them off, word does get around.
Assuming that an asking price is unrealistic & that you will OF COURSE be able to buy an item for less, sight unseen, is pretty much the same thing as calling the seller an unrealistic idiot to his face. It's not a good tactic.
Also, attempting to negotiate a lower price on something that you personally don't know very much about, when the seller does, is not bargaining from a position of strength. The proper approach is to do your research FIRST, THEN start trying to buy something. Don't start up a negotiation and then string things along for days while you ask a dozen other people what they would do, as the seller is going to lose patience with you.
For example, if I decided that I just HAD to buy a vintage juke box (which I know next to nothing about) I would start off by learning all the important factors that play into the pricing and valuation of these collectible items, before I ever answered an ad. It's the only way to avoid being either a) taken to the cleaners, or b) offending a seller who might otherwise be open to some reasonable negotiation.
As KCREPU said, as a buyer you have power based on you don't HAVE to buy something - you can walk away. But the seller also does not have to sell to you, and he doesn't have to lower his asking price for you either.
You have to make him decide he wants to.
TL;DR version:
1) Know your **** before you negotiate
2) See the item in person before you negotiate
3) Be able to at least consider paying the asking price before you waste a seller's time (unless they are asking 'or best offer.)
4) Remember that even though you are the customer, you have to sell the seller on your offer. He doesn't have to take it; he doesn't even have to talk to you.
#14
I hear you guys I guess I am not that good at haggling in person as I am over the phone or text guess I have to get better at that. But these guys are sometimes over 4 hours away I want to know I can get it for a good deal before I waste a whole day. But still why is everybody stop texting me back after I am close to making a deal doesn't make any sence.
#15
I hear you guys I guess I am not that good at haggling in person as I am over the phone or text guess I have to get better at that. But these guys are sometimes over 4 hours away I want to know I can get it for a good deal before I waste a whole day. But still why is everybody stop texting me back after I am close to making a deal doesn't make any sense.
I've driven 4 hours one way just to spend 5 minutes looking over a car and knowing it wasn't worth anything. Not even for free. It makes for a long day and $100 in gas.
Patients is your friend. You need to remember, you're looking at 30 year old cars and depending where you live, they can be hard to find. If you want to find cheap a deal on an OK car that is close to you, you'll have to wait for the right one to come along. The other option is to travel around and be willing to go home with nothing. When I purchased on GSL-SE, The car was located four hours away. I met the seller midway. I took a floor jack and inspected it in a Wal-Mart parking lot. After two hours looking it over and driving it, we made the deal and we drove it home. This was about the fourth car we looked at and each time we had to go a minimum of one hour away. Hell, I've even traveled to Utah and New Mexico just to look at rotary pickups. Bought the one in Utah and had it shipped back.
#16
Also, next time you call someone and low ball them, just breath into the phone without saying anything until they cave in to your offer and offer to deliver the car to your door for free as well.
But seriously, as mentioned already, dont negotiate price till you have looked at the car in person. Or if interstate and the car looks good enough to take a risk on and you are serious about paying a deposit.
But seriously, as mentioned already, dont negotiate price till you have looked at the car in person. Or if interstate and the car looks good enough to take a risk on and you are serious about paying a deposit.
#17
When someone calls me about buying a car from me without seeing it first and asks "What's the least you will take", my standard answer is "The Most I can get". That usually shuts them up!
#20
Patience is your friend. You need to remember, you're looking at 30 year old cars and depending where you live, they can be hard to find. If you want to find cheap a deal on an OK car that is close to you, you'll have to wait for the right one to come along. The other option is to travel around and be willing to go home with nothing.
your second state of mind should be not to seriously inquire about a car if you can't afford the asking price outright. assuming that he/she is going to yield to your pocket is asking for trouble. the only exception to that is if you happen to be buying a car from a dealer.
you also need to know what it is you want - a good, driving car or something that you will need to fix or put together. budget accordingly. cars that loved and maintained are not usually going to be cheap and their owners/sellers will probably have little tolerance for your shenanigans. you've been given really sound advice in this thread. take it to heart.
patience is key. unless you have significant cash/resources, it's likely to be a process - meaning it's going to take time.
as for pissing people off here. i've been here long enough to say i've seen people come and go, and even if they guys get a little miffed with you, unless you're a thief (or a REAL dick) they will still welcome you and help where they can. as long as you can take a few jabs, it's all good.
#21
I say stick with it - you've developed some thick skin over your time here and rotary is either in your blood or it isn't. If it weren't, I doubt you would have stayed past the first 6 months on this forum.
When you find the right car, it will make the effort worthwhile. Good luck,
When you find the right car, it will make the effort worthwhile. Good luck,
#22
I remember making these mistakes when I bought my very first rotary car. was trying really hard to get this very clean and fairly modded T2 10th anniversary and the guy got mad when I asked him how much he wanted. granted I had the money to pay his price and he was still a dick to me.
however I was patient and finally found a guy who sold me one for much cheaper at the time a non turbo but still what I had wanted.
you just gotta be patient and find that guy who is willing to joke with you and is 6'8" and can't drive the car anymore I have driven to state lines to look at cars and I can promise you most times it was worth it even if I couldn't make a deal you can meet a lot of good people that way even if they won't sell you anything.
however I was patient and finally found a guy who sold me one for much cheaper at the time a non turbo but still what I had wanted.
you just gotta be patient and find that guy who is willing to joke with you and is 6'8" and can't drive the car anymore I have driven to state lines to look at cars and I can promise you most times it was worth it even if I couldn't make a deal you can meet a lot of good people that way even if they won't sell you anything.
#23
Also, don't think you can do it like they show the guys doing it on various car shows on
velocity or discovery or the history channels. Most people don't just make a phone call and
negotiate a deal in one or two calls.
Theres only 2 things to ask over the phone/email/text: how much is it and when can I look at it.
No one will have a problem with that. Also if you get an answer and arrange a time make sure
you keep the appointment or give a few days notice if it needs to change. Otherwise you won't
be treated seriously at all.
velocity or discovery or the history channels. Most people don't just make a phone call and
negotiate a deal in one or two calls.
Theres only 2 things to ask over the phone/email/text: how much is it and when can I look at it.
No one will have a problem with that. Also if you get an answer and arrange a time make sure
you keep the appointment or give a few days notice if it needs to change. Otherwise you won't
be treated seriously at all.
#24
I will ask about price if it is not listed in their ad or confirm the price that they have listed. Beyond that my questions focus on the condition of the car.
Mileage?
Original Engine?
Does it have any rust?
Has the car been crashed?
What is the condition of the paint?
While the answers to some of these questions are subjective they are useful. Later when you view the car in person, you can use the answers you recieved over the phone to judge the honesty of the seller.
For example if the seller says there is no rust and when you see the car you find that the floors are rusted through you know that the person is likely not being honest with you about anything.
Trying to haggle over the phone for something that is sight unseen makes you a "tire kicker" and nobody likes to deal with that kind of buyer. It is the biggest reason why I hate selling on craigs list.....tire kickers.
Mileage?
Original Engine?
Does it have any rust?
Has the car been crashed?
What is the condition of the paint?
While the answers to some of these questions are subjective they are useful. Later when you view the car in person, you can use the answers you recieved over the phone to judge the honesty of the seller.
For example if the seller says there is no rust and when you see the car you find that the floors are rusted through you know that the person is likely not being honest with you about anything.
Trying to haggle over the phone for something that is sight unseen makes you a "tire kicker" and nobody likes to deal with that kind of buyer. It is the biggest reason why I hate selling on craigs list.....tire kickers.
#25