Shifting issues
12-02-10, 12:26 AM
#1
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Shifting issues
I know there are existing topics about what I'm about to talk about, but I have small details that differ, and I feel it'll help me diagnose the problem effectively.
Less than a week ago my shifting became less fluid (hard/stiff shifting). It started one cold morning, and then it went away. Then it came back and left several times more, persisting for longer periods of time each time it came back, until it basically stuck around permanently. (If this is confusing to read, the shifting was stiff, then fluid, then eventually permanently stiff).
After reading some posts I self-diagnosed it to be something inside the shifter (the name evades me) that can only be replaced if the transmission is taken out. Most people chose to "deal with it". I thought it wasn't much of an issue.
Anyways, as I was driving on-post (I'm in the Military), my clutch stuck to the wall of my car, and I couldn't shift. After sitting on the side of the road, it came back to the "Ready" position, and I could drive off without it sticking. As I continued to drive, it began to stick again, and stay on the wall, forcing me to use my foot to bring it back.
Based on this specific scenario. Is it the entire clutch cylinder/slave system? Just that spring thing? Thanks.
Less than a week ago my shifting became less fluid (hard/stiff shifting). It started one cold morning, and then it went away. Then it came back and left several times more, persisting for longer periods of time each time it came back, until it basically stuck around permanently. (If this is confusing to read, the shifting was stiff, then fluid, then eventually permanently stiff).
After reading some posts I self-diagnosed it to be something inside the shifter (the name evades me) that can only be replaced if the transmission is taken out. Most people chose to "deal with it". I thought it wasn't much of an issue.
Anyways, as I was driving on-post (I'm in the Military), my clutch stuck to the wall of my car, and I couldn't shift. After sitting on the side of the road, it came back to the "Ready" position, and I could drive off without it sticking. As I continued to drive, it began to stick again, and stay on the wall, forcing me to use my foot to bring it back.
Based on this specific scenario. Is it the entire clutch cylinder/slave system? Just that spring thing? Thanks.
12-02-10, 12:42 AM
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Jolly Green Giant
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If the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor then it's very very likely to be the hydraulics and as well will cause shifting problems particularly trying to shift into first or reverse from a dead stop.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
12-02-10, 12:45 AM
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Rotary Freakazoid
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being a cheap one by one i would do master and slave always do them both, then replace the the rubber hose from the fire wall to the slave with a steel or steel braided hose.
If the problem continues look into a clutch pressure plate and the clutch disc if this doesnt fix it then ill be baffeld.
Some people say the 80/90 with i think 30% tranny fluid works in colder weather + it cleans the tranny.
Hooah!
If the problem continues look into a clutch pressure plate and the clutch disc if this doesnt fix it then ill be baffeld.
Some people say the 80/90 with i think 30% tranny fluid works in colder weather + it cleans the tranny.
Hooah!
12-02-10, 12:56 AM
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If the clutch pedal is sticking to the floor then it's very very likely to be the hydraulics and as well will cause shifting problems particularly trying to shift into first or reverse from a dead stop.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
1. Check your fluid level and condition
2. Look inside the footwell where the pedal pushrod goes into the back of the master cylinder and see if there is fluid leaking. [bad master cyl]
3. Look at the slave cylinder and pull the dust boot back and see if it is damp and if there is buildup and dampness around the slave itself [bad slave cyl]
4. Check the condition of the flex hose itself, the outer casing will likely be cracked but check for any tearing, dampness, leakage especially around the ends where it's bolted to the hardline or slave cyl.
5. If you can find someone to help you, open the hood, take the cap off the master cyl reservoir and have an assistant pump the clutch a few times then hold it down to the floor. Look carefully at the slave cylinder to see if it holds still in the extended position, if it begins to slowly return while the pedal is still depressed and there appears to be no leak at the slave cyl and the boot is dry and clean. Repeat the pedal pump and hold and this time look at the master cyl reservoir, watch the fluid level and see if while the pedal is held down to see if the fluid returns back on its own, if it does this is a sign of an internal leak in the master.
6. If no leaks or signs of failure are apparent, flush out the fluid and lines with new fluid and see if that helps.
As always it is the BEST practice to replace everything together so you do not fix one thing then have another fail a week or two later because usually when one fails, the other is bound to be on it's way.
RockAuto.com generally has the best prices available for all the parts you will need, try not to get the cheapest master as even though it will last you a long time, you still want a quality product.
When I did my hydraulics I went ahead and replaced both master and slave, and picked up a stainless braided clutch line from Mazdatrix for about $25-30 shipped and IMO well worth it.
12-03-10, 03:25 PM
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Through your guidance I found that the footwell near the pushrod has wetness around it, so it's a bad master cylinder. I checked rockauto and I saw the suggestion for getting a "quality product", but I'm not familiar with these brand names. It's easy to assume a higher price is better quality, but that's not always the case. What's a good brand that will last a while? I'm a conservative spender.
12-03-10, 09:52 PM
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Jolly Green Giant
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Through your guidance I found that the footwell near the pushrod has wetness around it, so it's a bad master cylinder. I checked rockauto and I saw the suggestion for getting a "quality product", but I'm not familiar with these brand names. It's easy to assume a higher price is better quality, but that's not always the case. What's a good brand that will last a while? I'm a conservative spender.
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01-05-11, 01:44 PM
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Okay so update. I have been gradually fixing it around my ridiculous schedule and it seems I'm never short of issues. I bought new parts from Rockauto and installed them. Even after installing and bleeding the system, my clutch is not only still sticking to the wall, but now I seem to be leaking the clutch's fluid. I was taking it for a test drive, and it started sticking, so I pulled over to troubleshoot, and over time there was a puddle below my car (have yet to find the source, this just happened, plus it's raining outside). Maybe I botched the slave cylinder install somehow? I even bought the mazdatrix stainless steel braided line.....all parts are new. I can't keep pressure in the damn system. It lasts 7-8 shifts, max, then the shifter is stuck.
01-07-11, 05:28 PM
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Okay. Solution found. I'm only triple posting so that someone may not make the same mistake I made in the future. Apparently I botched the install job for the Mazdatrix stainless steel threaded wire. I have no idea how I did it, but one of the ends wasn't threaded correctly (I buckled and brought it to a mechanic). Don't make the same expensive mistake I made.
01-07-11, 11:25 PM
#11
Okay. Solution found. I'm only triple posting so that someone may not make the same mistake I made in the future. Apparently I botched the install job for the Mazdatrix stainless steel threaded wire. I have no idea how I did it, but one of the ends wasn't threaded correctly (I buckled and brought it to a mechanic). Don't make the same expensive mistake I made.
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