Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys im wondering if you can help me out....

Im setting up my weber 45dcoe and im having nothing but problems... First I overheated my first engine thats a whole different story but anyways I threw in a used engine and put the weber 45dcoe on it. Now I need some help im wondering why it does not want to work... I have gone over all of the jet sizes and venturi's with Robert from rotaryshack and have put in bigger main fuel jets but it did not seem to make a big difference. Im running a Carter fuel pump and Holley FPR regulator at 3.5 psi.

The car turns over, stumbles sounds like its gonna start but doesn't. It almost seems like it is feeding it too much gas right now but I am using 170 main jets. I tryed pull starting it for a minute and even when it took the rpms up too 3000 rpms the engine still did not want to go on its own.

So my question is where do you guys think I should start troubleshooting? Should I take the distributor out and make sure the marks all line up and stuff? Or should I mess around more with the settings? That reminds me what do you guys have your idle screws and stuff set at to have your car running the best?

Thanks Guys
Any information is greatly appreciated!!!
Dan_s_young

Rotor13B

I don't have the weber but the dellorto is a knock off and I have mine set between 1-1/2 and 2 turns. I actually found it was easier to get started the first time by turning the idle screws out 3 turn or so start it and then play with the idle. At 3 turns it would start right up, But it would run too rich and the exhaust would get smokey. Also as you suggested, resetting your timing wouldn't hurt to make sure it's ok. Put some oil down the carb with a thin hose, I use fuel line with a generic plastic ketchup bottle like in restuarants and squirt some oil past the butterflys.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

ok anyone else have anyother ideas?

rotaryengineering

If you don't mind sharing the setup you have installed and then we can move forward with jet changes or adjustments.

FB II

man, i went thru this same **** when i put on the sk side draft (same ****). i had to LITERALLY pump the gas 30 times before turning the key. also, pump slowly, you cant just hack at the throttle like the nikki. start with say... 15 slow pumps, then turn the key with your foot a 1/4 way down. this is neccessary because the engine probably hasnt been run in a long while. also, IF the timing is dead on, put a little oil in to each barrel. once you get it fired up, let it run for a good long time. after that it should only be like 3 pumps and turn. keep the idle screws out around 2 - 2.5 turns for now. what are your idle jets?

karism

Dan ,If i understand correclty,you have a stockport 12A?
What jets and venturies are you currently running ?(Idle jet size is most important now)What is your timing set at?

Remember the main fuel jets wont make a difference how easy it starts.Your fuel pressure sounds ok to me.How high is your floatlevel set to?



karis

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

ok well I am using f855 idle jets, 36 venturi's, f-7 emulsion tubes with 55 air correction (I believe), 170 fuel mains (I also have some 145's and 190's should I be using on of these?).

I put in a new seat and the float sits about 3/4 inch below the top of the carb. As for timing this is what im going to mess around with a ton today, I think it may be the problem because it is the distributor that I got with the new engine so I don't no for sure if its working good. So I guess ill take a timing light but my dilema with that is that we did not put the front pulley on at the right point...

FBII the thing is it just appears to be flooding like mad, won't pumping it like that just flood the crap out of it?

And it is deffinately getting TONS of fuel, we took the line off the carb for 2 seconds and cranked the engine and we got tons of gas...

rotaryengineering

This sounds like a Float Level problem or something is stuck in your needle valve. I would start with the Float Level.

1. Disconnect the fuel feed.
2. Take off all the screws and put the carb top on a flat surface upside down. You'll need at least a 14mm gap between the top of the float and the carb top. Weber recommends 12mm but, it leaks fuel at idle so use the 14mm measurement to start. Adjust the float level with a pair of pliers or small crecent wrench. This will fix your floading issue.
3. Adjust the float drop and measure 28mm to 30mm gap between the carb top with the float fully extended away from the carb top.

Idle jet recommendation use a F8-60 or F8-65. Since your running a stock 12A the F8-60 would probably be a better fit.

After you get the idle part straight then we can move forward with jetting.

Albert

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

well today we found that one of my idle adjustment jets had been all bent out of wack, it appears that it was bent at the tip and someone attempted to file it... Well we are doing are best to fix that...

So an update from today is the car will fire up, but it goes to about 2000 rpms and then stumbles and dies if you try and give it any gas. Any ideas what could be causing it to do this? I have all of the setting jets at about 2-2.5 turns out and am steadily running out of ideas on what could cause this.. One thing I noticed though is that the butterflys are not open at ALL during idle, so I need to make some adjustments to this carb along with a stiff throttle spring...

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

tomorrow im gonna try again and fire it up as soon as a get a new gasket on my upper to lower intake manifold. Im just starting to get fed up with the car not wanting to run at all... The timing is right, it has good compression, the carb started and worked great on the last engine (except it didn't rev past 3000 rpms...) My ideas on what the problem can be are running out.

And yes this is a stockport 12a for now, it won't be for a while that I can rebuild it and get it streetported...

FB II

what are your air jets??? if they are 55's then that's your problem. you need like... 155 or 160's.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

As far as jetting goes its allways a try an see thing. Your altitude and local weather all come into play on what is going to work for you. I'd suggest 60f9's for the idle jets. 180-190 main jets and 160 air corrector with s. I've got 45 pumpjets and think they're too small for my application. Ona stock port 12a I'd recomend 45 on the pump. As far as main choke If you like torque stay with the 36's. Chokes are becoming very hard to find these day's, but I do have a set of 38's laying around I'd sell. I also have some velocity stacks and a K&N air filter assembly I'm willing to part with.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

sorry I meant they are 155's, the more I play around with it the more I think its something else because the car ran fine before with the nikki on it...

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Again, as I mentioned in the other thread, you have to use smaller venturies and stop ******* with the jets. if the engine idles fine but falls flat on its face at acceleration, you have to change the venturies.

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Like I said I'm starting to think its not even a carb problem, im guessing once I get the timing set up right after its pull started it should run good. But dang I wish Robert (rotaryshack) would have mentioned that it could be because of my venturi's, he just told me it was probally cause my 145 main fuel jets not supplying enough fuel. By the way Robert if you read this please respond to my email about the rebuild kit I ordered.

Thanks

lumberjk3

you don't sound too confident that your timing is set up correctly. if that's all screwed up, nothing you do to the carb will make any difference. if you're not sure about the position of the front pully on the shaft, take it off, set the keyway to 9 o'clock, then put the pully back on with the timing marks at the 12 o'clock (or as near as they come).

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

you are so wrong. he allready mentioned that he is running 36mm chokes those are the smallest chokes you can get for a 45dcoe. it is your idle jets. YOU MUST RUN 60F9's or its not going to run right. If you port the hell outta it or boost ir go up to 65F9's nothing else will work correctly

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

ok, I emailed Robert, im hoping to work a deal out with him... I hope you are right though but I read in other threads others saying the same thing that the only way the car would run is with f9-60's, does it need to be f9's though what about f8-60's or 65's?

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

didn't you read what i wrote f8 are way too small I ran 70f8's on my car and it wouldn't drive at all. 60f9 perfect. Build a bridge and get over it.
http://www.cbperformance.com/

Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

k thanks for the tips, It just sucks having to wait on parts in the mail...

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

if you don't like having something rare you could allways buy a mustang. there are parts for those everywhere. no waiting for stuff. Or you coulda gotten a holley. either way Weber has been on strike in Spain since 2001 and there is no government intervention, like here, and people who cross strike lines get killed. so there will likely never be a resolution to the problem. Weber is most likley dead...

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

.


your right. he is already using a 36 venturies. My bad-didnt see that post about it. Ok, then continue ******* with the jets

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

You cant use 45 on a bridgeport. Thats carb is way too small. there is a big difference between "It Runs" VS "It Runs Very Well". Personally, I wont even use it on a streetport.