YELLOWGSLSE

iTrader: (7)

Hi, everyone. Ok here's the deal. I have a 1984 gsl-se with 126,00miles on it. Last week I was driving home from school and the car was running great; smooth as silk, no funny noises, nothing. Then, all of a sudden, with my foot still on the gas, the car just LOST ABOUT 80 PERCENT OF ITS POWER!!! I mean, i was going under an over pass, and by the time I came out the other side, the engine was so weak, it just died. I started the car back up, and had to FLOOR it just to KEEP UP with traffic on the small residential road back to my house. It feels like the car is only running on 1 rotor. I pulled the spark plugs, and the rear plug was almost bone dry!! also, the car starts, basically like it always has. takes a little bit longer now, but it does start and ther's no smoke. Someone please help. I can't really drive the car this way, and I really need it to get to and from work and school. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank's in advance- Phil

jimmyv13

Check the compression. I don't think mine smoked when I blew a seal, but I can't remember. But the symptoms sound the same......lost most pwr, I had to floor it to get it to move, used about 1/4 tank of fuel to drive 20 miles.
If the comp is good, then go to the ignition system.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You might be in "limp" mode.

stinkfist

I'd bet money that you lost an apex seal. Heres a quick and easy test. Take one of the spark plugs out on the rear rotor. turn the engine over either by hand or with the starter. You should hear a loud SPFFT! SPFFT! SPFFT!. if you hear something like SPFFT! blup blup then you have lost a seal. If that rotor sounds fine put the plug back in and try the front rotor.

You should take all of your plug wires off to do this for two reasons. 1. when you turn the engine over without the plug in the hole a mist of gas will shoot out of the hole and could ignite if your plug wire is just laying there. 2. if you only disconect the plug wire that you remove then the engine could start running and make a big mess( if you use the ignition to turn it over).


Good luck,

Mike

treceb

I think my car might have bad compression too, or a seal is getting stuck, if there is such a thing.

Ill have to see how it behaves when i leave work.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You will want to do something about the open ended plug wires. If you don't, you could shorten the life of your coils.

Either unplug the - terminal of both coils (it is a simple quick disconnect I think) Or unplug the ignitors themselves. Then crank the engine.

jrx13

iTrader: (3)

Well if the car starts normally, I'd say maybe your cats are clogged or something....

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Most diagnosis steps have already been said above. Just to recap.

Check your compression. Disconnect the coils. Pull one of the top plugs and crank the engine. You should hear three distinct air pulses. PTSSH! PTSSH! PTSSH!... Skipping one pluse means a dead side seal. Skipping two means a dead apex seal.

Check your spark. Timing light, neon test light with spark plug connectors, holding a spark plug against the body, or dangling the spark plug wire near the body all can do this. Look closely as the spark is very hard to see in broad daylight.

Check your fuel. Look down the carb. One time my seccondaries got jambed open due to extreme cold. Carb was FILLED with fuel. See if you can start it with the pedal to the floor. Look at the sight glasses on the carb and see how much fuel is in there. It should be half way up. No fuel or too much will leave you stranded.

Check for vacuum leaks. Look at your hoses. There are many, so look carefully. Notice any that are split, broken, cut or ect. Replace these or plug them to get you started. If it starts, use a can of WD-40 or carb cleaner to check for leaks. Spray it around the hoses and joints. If there is a leak, the engine will suck up the fluid and rev up some.

These are all general steps that you can do with very little in the way of tools or supplies. Most will get you running to the point where you can get home or to the shop where further diagnosis and/or repair can be done.

I always maek it a point to carry a few small things with me that will aid me should I break down. They are small, but very useful.

Small toolkit: El-Cheapo metric and SAE sockets, Small and large phillips and flat screw drivers, Needle nose pliers, wire cutters, flash light, leather man tool, duct and electrical tape, Volt meter.

Fluids: Two quarts Oil, 1 gal jerry can for gasoline (Do NOT carry full gas cans in your car for extended time.) 50/50 coolant mix, brake fluid, winshield spray, carb cleaner, WD-40

Other supplies: Upper and lower radiator hoses, a foot or two of vacuum and fuel hoses, old set of spark plug wires, old set of spark plugs, fuel/air/oil filters, V-belts, some wire, spare fuses and fusible links.

That stuff takes up one full storage bin. There are times when I was glad I had it there. It saved me some walking.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

Check your ignitors and fuel pump....

speckamp

sounds sadly like an apex seal...so check your compression as described above, however, since you've got an -SE there's one other big possability...

What was your tach doing? were you getting any readings on it?

Check your leading ignition... If your trailing goes out you might lose 10% power, but the ECU will not know the car is running and stop delivering fuel so the car WILL NOT RUN without trailing (GSL-SE models only!)... however, the car WILL (sorta) run on JUST trailing, but you will SERIOUSLY be down on power, and it will act like you tossed a seal. So, go through the haynes manual ($15 at pep boys) and check your ignitors, and spark plugs, and such, see if you're getting anything on the leadings.

Good luck.

--matt

YELLOWGSLSE

iTrader: (7)

Ok guys, thanks for the help, but now there's a "NEW" problem. I did the test on the engine where you listen for the three PFSSSTs while cranking the engine with the top plug removed. The rear rotor sounds strong(even, loud pulses) but the front rotor has NO PULSES AT ALL!!! Do you think that it's possible that I have blown ALL THREE apex seals, or could it possibly be something else???

MyRxBad

I don't think you would have shot out all three apex seals. Hmmm..


Anyone think it might be a side seal? Anyone know what an engine sounds like when a side seals gone?

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Only gotta mulch two to kill the entire rotor. When one goes, it's possible that it hangs around in the rotor housing and takes another seal, the housing, or the rotor itself out with it.

Most likely you dod in fact kill a seal. For better confirmation, look in the lower plug hole or remove the exhaust manifold and look in as you turn the engine by hand. Check the seals as they pass.

Of you see broken seals or none at all, it's rebuild time... Which, BTW is not always a bad thing... Just expensive.

brownmound

Jeezus! All that crap and it only takes up one storage bin? I would add some pantyhose to that. I carry some incase I ever get the password to an Eyes Wide Shut party. Seriously though, I carry those in case a belt breaks. One time my alternator belt broke in front of Walgreens. Fearing I wouldn't make it home, I went in and bought some hose. Ask the ladies they love to help you out. It got me home, and then all over town as I went to several autoparts stores to get the proper belts.

Right on-

Pele

iTrader: (28)

PantyHose for a belt? That's a new one by me. I'd feel kinda wacked buying feminine undergarments while alone, but that's me...

smnc

I cary my tools in the space behind the passenger seat. Keeps my bins free for other uses. BTW, instead of a jerry can, try to find a can of Penzoil Rescue. It's gas with the more volotile elements removed, which makes it safe to carry in your car.
Basically as long as your engine is hot, it works EXACTLY like normal gas. I've never actually run it in my rex, but I've used it in the G/F's Intrepid and it worked great!