1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

seafoam?

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Old 05-30-08, 11:06 PM
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seafoam?

alright, i've read for the last hr and a half trying to find the correct procedure for the seafoam . . . i came across some comments on "monthly" cleaning and stuff, my car's running ok nothing really wrong with it no engine seizing nor anything, but i was wondering will it be ok if i do the cleaning with seafoam anyways? i've owned it for 2 years and never done it, the guy who owned it before didn't know jack about it so i'm sure he'd never done it. will it hurt anything if i do it? and if it's ok for me to do it, what is the "safe" procedure on doing it, cuz i've read to put it in the engine (don't know how to inject it in there) and let it soak for about 2 days, and i've read to put it in gas tank and drive around for a bit, so i want to know the exact procedure if its advised for me to do it :P, i've read and just couldn't come across it, or if you know the thread that i'm looking for could you direct me to it, thanks a lot.
Old 05-30-08, 11:19 PM
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Old 05-30-08, 11:48 PM
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Yeah there's a couple ways to do it. What I usually do is put it in with about 1/8 to 1/4 tank of gas and go for a nice spirited drive and then go fill up
Old 05-31-08, 01:09 AM
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^^^^And that's exactly how it should be done in my opinion.

How often should you do it? I say, as often as you see significant results. With my old motor, which had well over 200K miles on it, I used to do it monthly. That was how often I saw an increase in performance.
Old 05-31-08, 01:25 AM
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Run it through a vacuum line in the manifold, thats what I do. It will go directly into the rotor chamber. I usually shove the hose down in the can until the car will about die, then pull it back out. When most of it is sucked up I shove the hose to the bottom of the can and stall the car out. Let it sit, then start up however longer later you want and watch the smoke!
Old 05-31-08, 05:04 PM
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this is a semi-related question :P, i went by wally world today to see if they had any seafoam and they didn't but i saw another thing called "gunk motor flush = 5 minute flush" i read the warnings and what not, and it didn't say anything about it not being safe for rotaries, haven't bought it or tried it until i heard some feedback about it, seems like it'll clean, but i was wondering if any of you guys have ever tried that..and if it was something safe to use with rotaries. i tried to do some research on it, and supposedly it really cleans everything specially oil...so i'm a bit iffy about the oil part, then again all the reviews i read were used in a piston engine here's my fav. :P



"When I was going to tear my 350 down I put a can of flush bought form walmart. I let it idle for 15 minutes as the instructions on the can said. Drained the oil and changed the filter. Took the intake and heads off. I made the repairs and reassembled. After the first test drive I checked the oil. Nothing on the stick. I checked again still nothing, no wait its there. It was so clean that you couldnt see it on the stick. It has a chrome dip stick and the oil was transparent it was so clean. I dont recommend using it unless you were to aquire a car as I did with poor prior maintence. Then once should be ok. Then do regular oil changes and you should have no problem."-some guy(girl) off some random website :P
Old 05-31-08, 06:00 PM
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I used napa motor flush in my old winter beater spirit, got it cheap back when I worked there. I didn't tear it down but I did watch how quick the oil turned black on the dipstick and it was the same amount of time before and after use. I know oil is supposed to turn dark because that means it's doing it's job of suspending the junk in the motor, but if the motor flush really cleaned all that crap out you'd think it would have taken longer to get dark. Not sure I'd want to be injecting that crap into the motor as it idles through the OMP.
Old 05-31-08, 06:21 PM
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see that's what i was thinking, cuz i was afraid of it going through oil lines and ****.
Old 05-31-08, 09:07 PM
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Yeah the oiling system works a little different on a rotary that the piston engine. The Gunk flush is more or less designed to clean up the valvetrain area of debris and sludge build up. If you wish to clean the oiling system on a Rotary, I would use some Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO). Defintely works and it's safe to be burned in the motor
Old 05-31-08, 11:33 PM
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Every motor that I've ever used that type of product in smoked afterwards and started losing oil. They were all high mileage motors, but who'd use that **** on a new motor, right?
Old 05-31-08, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Every motor that I've ever used that type of product in smoked afterwards and started losing oil. They were all high mileage motors, but who'd use that **** on a new motor, right?
Do you mean MMO or Gunk Flush? I have never used MMO, but I have never heard anything bad about it either.
Old 06-01-08, 02:00 AM
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Sorry, I was referring to the Gunk Flush that you put in the oil before an oil change.
Old 06-01-08, 06:47 AM
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that's what i was thinking i was just wondering if any of you had used that gunk flush, and if it had worked..you know always looking for new alternatives and stuff.
Old 06-02-08, 01:10 AM
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On a side not, not many products say they are or are not safe for rotaries. So dont assume they will have that on their label. (mentioned in original post)
Old 06-02-08, 08:06 AM
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thank you. . . you know, i've never thought of that, but you're right now that i think about it :P thanks man.
Old 06-02-08, 08:34 AM
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Looking for something new? Gunk has been around longer than you have, lol. Before detergent oils became the standard, a mixture of 5w or 10w oil and kerosene worked quite well for cleaning out crankcases and oil galleys.
Old 06-02-08, 08:46 AM
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haha...well it's pretty new to me being that i had no interest in cars until i got my 7 2 years ago :P
Old 06-26-08, 09:39 PM
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wont star now :(

alright, well i did the vacuum line method, i let the engine suck it in, (probably sucked in more than it should idk, it had about 1/8 left of gas, and it sucked in about half the can) cranked the car, took a while but finally it cranked and sure there was smoke everywhere, the car ran for about 3 minutes then the revs dropped and stalled, now it is acting like it's flooded, i tried the old pressing the gas pedal all the way down and cranking and nothing, i've checked all my connections and everything seems fine, checked for spark and it was there, today i just got pissed off and tired of messing with it (due to the fact that i spent all day waxing it, and all that good stuff and i was just plain tired) for hrs and not cranking so i gave up.

anyways tomorrow i'm gonna try and take off the plugs and turning the car like that, to get rid of all the excess crap, hopefully that'll do it, but i was wondering, is there anything else i need to do while doing this?

(i've checked cap and rotor, seems good, i even did really light sanding on the connections on cap and rotor with 1000 grit sandpaper just to get rid of the small build up that was there)
Old 06-27-08, 12:59 AM
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Pull the plugs and unflood it. Either clean and dry the plugs thuroughly or replace them with new plugs. Make sure the battery is fully charged and it should fire right up
Old 06-27-08, 10:45 AM
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Seafoam should not induce flooding. I actually use it to deflood motors...
Old 06-27-08, 10:59 AM
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yeah i thought it was weird myself lol, i've always heard it was good for deflooding lol, but i guess too much of it will flood it bad idk, anyways, is there something else i should check for or do i have everything on the checklist as to what else it could possibly be?
Old 06-27-08, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by blackdeath647
yeah i thought it was weird myself lol, i've always heard it was good for deflooding lol, but i guess too much of it will flood it bad idk, anyways, is there something else i should check for or do i have everything on the checklist as to what else it could possibly be?
took off plugs, engine definitely has compression, i love the sound lol, as i was cleaning one of the plugs and took all the carbon off from them i realized that part of the little rod/piston thing on the plugs was missing, like it broke. now i have to wait til tomorrow cuz the local advance doesn't even have plugs for my 7 in stock, they know me pretty well by now, you'd figured they'd atleast keep a set of plugs in stock for me lol.
Old 06-27-08, 03:05 PM
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Get NGK plugs, don't settle for anything else...
Old 06-27-08, 03:16 PM
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i don't want this thread to get like all the other ones about plugs, so no comment on that, i will get what i feel like and that's final, (not trying to be an *******) thanks for your opinion, but i really don't want to have to ask this thread to be closed cuz of arguments about spark plugs. all i'm asking is, besides the plugs, is there anything else i might wanna check (check list = rotor and cap (good) wires (good) spark (good)oh and when plugs were off i turned the engine, spat out a lil bit of gunk but not much, so what do you guys recommend on this, turn it for 5 secs? maybe less, maybe longer, or do something else while turning? this is my first time trying so idk if it's better to press the gas while doing it or w/e you guys recommend) i just wanna get it running from all that seafoam lol. plugs should be here tomorrow, so i'll see how that goes when i install them.
Old 06-27-08, 04:02 PM
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the unflooding procedure that i have tried, you have to hold the gas to the floor while cranking with the plugs out, and i think you do it as well when ready to start it up, so as much air as possible gets in there. this is how i read to do it.


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