I have recently been smelling gas fumes. Feared a fuel leak with the delivery system but have come up dry on visual inspections for puddled fuel. Have gotten a couple large random backfires in the past week which makes me believe it just may be running rich. The intake is stock, exhaust is a rb header, gutted cat to a rb muffler. First thing that comes to mind is a faulty oxy sensor. Plugs and wires are new, reset timing and tps. One thing I can't clean up is the timing readings. When shooting the light on the timing notches they come out being roughly a 1/4" blurr.

 

I have noticed my SE smells bad also. I think due to the SE's running 680cc injectors at an idle and with a open exhaust like yours and mine it allows it to smell from the extra fuel. I really want to have some time and bolt on all the S4 intakes, TB, and wire in the S4 ECU and harness. Then see if the car smells since it will be running the stock 460?cc injectors.
Well if you figure yours out post the find.

My SE had the full SP RB exhaust, no rats nest, no airpump, TB mod done,
and running all S$ intakes and TB, but Street ported motor, and larger 710cc injectors.

 

i have noticed this in my SE lately but figured it was just because it was getting colder out. i leaned out my mixture a little and it helped some so next is my tps then my timing then my plugs and then coils. if all that is ok you think is my O2 sensor???

 

O2 sensor, no. It comes into play during steady cruise only, not at idle or under accelleration. I would look harder for fuel leaks around the injectors and fuel rail while the engine is running. There may be a leak, but it could be evaporating before it has a chance to puddle. By the time a fuel leak puddles, it's usually a fair sized leak and quite dangerous.

If it's mostly the exhaust that smells rich, and is worse than it was before, check the trailing plugs and ignition. Not really sure why the timing light doesn't show steady, unless you are getting electical bleed from one of the other plug wires or perhaps the dizzy is loose.

Last thought is leaky injectors. How many miles on them and have they ever been serviced?

 

What he said ^

The fact of the timing light issue make sure to check advance and trailing. When you do that make sure you clip the wire on the light away from all other wires.
Check the ignitors, plugs , and wires. Try running some seafoam thru your tank and thru the motor.
And with an open exhaust your going to get a bit more fumes.

 

i think im gonna go w/my ignition...i need new plugs anyway.

 

Use the 7's and 9's from a 2nd gen. Just tell them you want the NGK plugs for a 86 rx7. They seem to run better on all of my 1st gens.

 

br8eix is what som1 a long time ago told me i think

 

I had the same problem when I got my SE. I could smell fuel leaking, but couldn't see any leaks. Turned out to be the o-rings and grommets on my primary injectors. Hope that helps.

 

nope, run the 2nd gen plugs. Trust me most of the 1st gen guys run 2nd gen plugs.
Also if you can take the car down for awhile, pull the upper intake, pull your injectors and send them off to be rebuilt. Check you pluseation damper for leaks and while the intake is off replace all the vaccum lines (one at a time).

You could do a bit more mods if you wanted at this time like ratsnest removal, acv block off and removal of the airpump but that is up to you.

 

Am I missing something here? Pt Ray post's up alittle over a week ago with this issue. Multiple people respond immediately to offer help and he has not got the common coutesy to post back to let us know what's going on?

And yes, I checked to see when he was last online. Today at 6:50 pm.
This kind of thing is upsetting

Atleast maybe rolfs_7 will get some help out of the thread.

 

Actually, I caught the first few posts but just now noticed it had a good bit of activity, I apologize for the oversight. The last few days I have been on the forum was for the purpose of doing some searches on my issue, did not really pay attention to the threads.

As it stands, I am going to send an extra set of injectors off to WitchHunter for cleaning/rebuild and replace the O2 sensor. Changing the injectors will also give me a chance to really check the delivery system for leaks. The soft lines will no doubt be replaced.

 

I recommend before you remove the injectors to activate the fuel pump after you get the manifolds off to see if you can visually identify any leaks. You could have a leak at the sealing washer between the fuel damper and the rail. Remember to pay close attention to where the vacuum lines go. If you have a digital camera then I recommend taking pictures. 2 water hoses to consider changing when you are there are the 1 from the t/body to the water pump housing and the one from the thermo valve to the motor.

 

Another potential leak area is the injector itself. I sent a pair of SE injectors in to be serviced several years ago and the report on one came back that it had a cracked body and was not serviceable. I don't know how frequently this happens.

 

Very infrequently. In all the Se injectors that I have sent in(alot), I have never had one cracked. Have had 2nd gen ones cracked though.

Pt Ray, forgot to ask this one important question. Has your fuel mileage gone down?

 

More like I forgot to mention. Used to be able to get 22 city and in the upper 20's on highway, now it is more like 17 regardless.

 

After you get everything checked out and the injectors tested and cleaned, and verify if there were any fuel leaks. Then the other thing to test is the CTS located on the back of the water pump housing. The other component that is notorious for getting out of calibration all on it's own is the AFM but doubt it will drop your mileage like that.

 

Received my rebuilt injectors this morning that I sent off to WitchHunter, could not have been better timing. Total of a five day turnaround from ship to receive, from the south to the west coast and back. When I took the uim off, I powered up the fuel system to see if I could find a leak. Sure enough the rear injector was weeping at the fuel rail connection, glad I did not sit on this one very long. When I was breaking down the delivery system, I noticed the injector connectors were damaged and broke away even more. Enough remained intact to serve its purpose but will be looking for replacements to splice in. Once put back together I only had a chance to drive up the street and back. Can't say I noticed any major improvements but seems smoother when feathering the throttle. The spread sheet that came back with the injectors was limited, there was no before data due to the injectors being frozen shut when they received them. Some of the after data:

Static Flow: 171 172
Pulsed Flow: 85.5 86
Injector Balance: 0.6%
cc/min@43.5psi 684 688

Included are some pics of the rebuilt units and what was pulled out: