Screw it, got myself a 13B!! - pics!
#1
Screw it, got myself a 13B!! - pics!
well, i've given up on trying to restore my 12a. have put a lot of hours into it and the compression is just getting a little too low for my liking. also im sick of carb probs, flooding, etc.
so........ i picked up a 84 13B today, it was rebuild 38,000k ago, strong compression, dual drive alt. pully and came with just about everything i need still attached, 5spd trans (rebuild recently), ECU, harness, all oil lines, oil cooler, mounts, wires, plugs, intake... basically everything was removed straight out since the owner is going to a V8.
should be putting this in on monday, then its onto wiring everything up and i should be ready to go!
does anyone have any websites or links for doing this swap? or is basically just plug'n'play everything from my '84 12a? from what ive seen its pretty straight forward, but wouldnt mind some feedback or advice incase there may be troubles i encounter..
im excited, so thought i'd let ya guys know!
here's some pics.
so........ i picked up a 84 13B today, it was rebuild 38,000k ago, strong compression, dual drive alt. pully and came with just about everything i need still attached, 5spd trans (rebuild recently), ECU, harness, all oil lines, oil cooler, mounts, wires, plugs, intake... basically everything was removed straight out since the owner is going to a V8.
should be putting this in on monday, then its onto wiring everything up and i should be ready to go!
does anyone have any websites or links for doing this swap? or is basically just plug'n'play everything from my '84 12a? from what ive seen its pretty straight forward, but wouldnt mind some feedback or advice incase there may be troubles i encounter..
im excited, so thought i'd let ya guys know!
here's some pics.
Last edited by Paradox; 04-22-05 at 11:32 PM.
#3
ya, awesome price. couldnt pass this up
didnt bother with the supercharger, would require too much fab. work for me to finish off the project, but damn would it be nice!
right now i want to keep the car fairly stock, and just bring it back to life. the 13b in the GS should be nice, only 13b powered car ive driven before are second gens or my friends 85 -SE, which has a damn nice torque curve compared to the 12a!
didnt bother with the supercharger, would require too much fab. work for me to finish off the project, but damn would it be nice!
right now i want to keep the car fairly stock, and just bring it back to life. the 13b in the GS should be nice, only 13b powered car ive driven before are second gens or my friends 85 -SE, which has a damn nice torque curve compared to the 12a!
#4
im pretty jealous to be honest when I first saw that I wanted to make a road trip over there to BC... I also could have gone for a FMOC like that =/ well im sure a deal like this will come up in Edmonton sooner or later, well at least i hope...
#6
he didn't buy it, its for sale though for 500 cdn apparently...
edit: heres the link https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=417151 you owe me now for the mad hook up yo! j/k...
edit: heres the link https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=417151 you owe me now for the mad hook up yo! j/k...
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#8
Before you run this engine - replace that lower oil cooler hose! The oil spray pattern indicates that the lower hose is bad and is allowing oil seepage to be picked up in airflow behind the radiator and beneath the car to redeposit on the backside of the oil cooler. Take a close look at the pictures and you'll see it. If they both looked like the top hose, you'd be find.
Also, know that the FMOC on SE's are known for getting minute cracks in the aluminum mounting bungs from overtightening on hose installation. This is avoidable through using 2 wrenches of the correct size to remove and install hoses, and also by using new aluminum crush washers on reinstallation. Tighten the fittings to just past finger tight, and then start the engine (expect leaks). Go to the leaking connections and tighten them JUST UNTIL THEY STOP LEAKING. No further. Any further, and you'll introduce cracks that will not go away no matter how much you tighten it - which makes the cracks even worse and it will then leak more.
Go slowly, take your time, and make sure you've got the correct engine mount plate to fit in your 12a chassis. Oh, and put on some new radiator hoses while you're at it - that top hose is really constricted at the clamp indicating that the hose is likely saturated and about to burst. HTH,
Edit: Something else I was thinking about...
Before you install the engine, you might want to check the fuel lines under the intake manifold to ensure that they're in good shape. You'll also want to be sure which line is feed and which line is return so that the engine will run correctly when you get it installed. While it's out, it's very easy to get to the UIM and LIM to clean it out. If it has a lot of miles on it, the IM's will likely be clean on the primary sides and gunky on the secondary and '6'-port sides. This is worth cleaning out to ensure that you have a good, clean engine installed to run. While the LIM is off, pull the '6'-port sleeves and give them a good cleaning as well - they will work much better when cleaned up and well-lubed.
Here are some pics of what you're likely to find;
LIM showing primary intake (center) and aux intakes;
Typical '6'-port sleeves after as few as 60k miles;
Worth cleaning up;
Also, know that the FMOC on SE's are known for getting minute cracks in the aluminum mounting bungs from overtightening on hose installation. This is avoidable through using 2 wrenches of the correct size to remove and install hoses, and also by using new aluminum crush washers on reinstallation. Tighten the fittings to just past finger tight, and then start the engine (expect leaks). Go to the leaking connections and tighten them JUST UNTIL THEY STOP LEAKING. No further. Any further, and you'll introduce cracks that will not go away no matter how much you tighten it - which makes the cracks even worse and it will then leak more.
Go slowly, take your time, and make sure you've got the correct engine mount plate to fit in your 12a chassis. Oh, and put on some new radiator hoses while you're at it - that top hose is really constricted at the clamp indicating that the hose is likely saturated and about to burst. HTH,
Edit: Something else I was thinking about...
Before you install the engine, you might want to check the fuel lines under the intake manifold to ensure that they're in good shape. You'll also want to be sure which line is feed and which line is return so that the engine will run correctly when you get it installed. While it's out, it's very easy to get to the UIM and LIM to clean it out. If it has a lot of miles on it, the IM's will likely be clean on the primary sides and gunky on the secondary and '6'-port sides. This is worth cleaning out to ensure that you have a good, clean engine installed to run. While the LIM is off, pull the '6'-port sleeves and give them a good cleaning as well - they will work much better when cleaned up and well-lubed.
Here are some pics of what you're likely to find;
LIM showing primary intake (center) and aux intakes;
Typical '6'-port sleeves after as few as 60k miles;
Worth cleaning up;
Last edited by LongDuck; 04-23-05 at 01:45 PM.
#9
thanks longduck, ya i'm planning on cleaning up the engine a fair bit before i have it fully together. was also planning on finding some generic oil lines and replace all that i can. what size are the lines? 3/8"?
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