FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

I'm rebuilding the carb in the SA and have it tore apart. I stupidly wasn't paying attention to where it could be and when I was cleaning found it and what I think to be the weight on the ground. I have absolutely no idea where they go back in. Any help would be great. I have the carb manual printed for it but it doesn't specify. As far as I remember there's only one check ball and weight for the SA's?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I know there are 3 ***** and 2 weights for the later carbs. Two of the ***** and weights are for the AP system, the 3rd ball isn't shown in the carb manual. Carl calls the weights Abbot and Costello, thin/fat. If you look in the later carb diagram, you should be able to figure out where your's goes, but I suspect you have another ball and weight you haven't found yet.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

The first pic is what I found on the ground and believe to be the check ball and weight. The second pic is where I believe that they go, it is circled in yellow in the pic.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

That looks like Abbot and under the AP squirter is one of the spots for them. It may go in the larger hole, don't recall, would need to look at the exploded diagram. Ball first, then the weight sits on top.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Okay I'm going to call it a night, but feel free to add any findings.

Sterling

There are not three ***** and two weights. There are 3 weights and two *****, and only on the carbs with a richer solenoid.

The tiny weight goes over a check ball in hole behind accelerator pump housing.
The short fat weight goes over a check ball under brass banjo bolt that holds the accelerator twin nozzle on.
The largest weight (if any) goes under a brass flat head screw at the rear most part of the carb.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Sterling, I was hoping you would chime in and keep me straight. Now that I think of it it is 3 weights, and I have yet to figure out what that 3rd weight is for.

Btw, do all of the Nikkis have 2 ***** and 3 weights?

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify, I went the lazy route and only seperated the the main bodies. I didn't take anything else apart. So with that in mind any other advice? And Sterling, which exact spot do they go? Don't worry Sterling, I'll pony up the cash for one of your Sterling Nikki's for this SA in the future, I just need it to quit filling the secondaries with fuel after the motor shuts down LOL

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Totally not related to the topic, but FB666, What camera did you use to take the carb picture? It is really clear!

Sterling

Right above and behind the accelerator pump cover, where the fattest brass plug goes.The nozzle set (gray) is held down with a brass screw that has a jet pressed in the bottom of it and cross drilled hole in its shank. The check ball, with the weight on top, go right in that same threaded port that the banjo screw goes in.
I always encourage people to do a Nikki rebuild. That way, when they decide they want a kick-*** version, I have working for me; people are much more apt to buy something they already know something about. And secondly, it makes helping people tune them much easier.
The third, giant weight is not for a check valve. It's only on carbs that have a richer solenoid, and I believe that's only on automatics. I think it's job is to prevent the solenoid plunger from shutting under certain vacuum conditions. How it works and when, I still haven't bothered to research, mostly because autos are fer pussies.

Sterling

Kodak Easyshare V1003.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You are 100% correct. That has been my exact experience with these marvelous Nikkis.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Thanks alot guys, it's been really helpful! I think I only dislodged the one below the banjo screw because I never took any other plugs out. I did take off the fat screw at the bottom of the picture but I never flipped it upside down with it out. Yeah Jeezus it's a Kodak Easy share camera. It's my girlfriends. It's 10megapixels but those pictures are only on 4.9 mega pixels!

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

It was kinda hard to see the stamped numbers on the air bleeds. They look like 90 and 140.

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

You are correct Jeff, 90 and 140 on them

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Okay guys I got the carb back together and back on the car. It seems to run pretty good but now the choke isn't working. The choke plate itself does not move. I don't remember messing with it at all but I may have reconnected a linkage wrong or something. Anybody have any pictures of how the choke linkage should be hooked up?

FirebirdSlayer666

iTrader: (3)

Bumpin it up. Anyone else have any input?