Ok, I did a search. But after scrolling through several pages of theads, I could not find an answer to this question. Surprised as I have no doubt the first time this has been tried number of times what with the larger availability of parts for the S4 engine vs the GSL-SE engine.

I'm looking to keep my GSL-SE emissions legal. But, I'd like to swap a not very old rebuilt S4 13B into it.

I know about the front cover and oil pan. But aside from those issues, will everything bolt up? If so, any other bits of advise that can be shared in doing this? A link to any threads on this subject would be great.

Thanks in advance.

 

Are you planning on running stock ECU etc? I heard that you can swap the engine in with only a few mods.

 

front engine cover swap from Se to S4 motor replace gaskets and use your old intake and maf componenets.

 

i'm sure i've writen this up a ton of times buttt here is some little info for you if you plan on keeping the stock ecu.
swap oil pan and front cover.
Use the se dizzy and such.
Use the s4 intake. the s3 will sufficate the motor.
The ACV is the same on either engine how ever the BAC is not. swap that out.
I recommend removing the rats net of stuff. (just makes it eaiser)
Plug the secondary injector holes on the s4 block using some racing beat plugs. The plugs are designed for the primary holes when going carbed. However is you cut about .5 inches off the top of each plug then cut the bracket in half they plug the injectors just fine.
Keep the stock MAS, air temp, and all the other sensors should be fine to swap.
I also recomend swapping out the water pump, otherwise you end up having to get new upper rad hose and you also end up with 2 rad caps.
The stock air box and such should be removed otherwise it's a pain to get it hooked up with the new larger intake.

Thats about it. The rest you can figure out. There realy isn't that much left. The oil lines hook right up, the accessories will bolt right on. The exhaust will bolt right up. Everything else shouldn't be a problem. I've done this swap a ton of times. pm me if you have troubles.

 

I am actually finishing this up TODAY. I am essentially just using an S4 block. I removed the 2nd gen manifolds.. Blocked off all the emmisions junk- YOU WILL STILL PASS.... Put back on the GSL-SE Manifold, plug up your STOCK SE MAF, and run...

I don't know who told you it will "choke out" the motor by using the old mani- that is not exactly true, the S4 mani does have a higher flow rate but it is essentially the same motor so using the s3 manifolds will not "choke it out". BTW you use the two injectors ont he block not the two on the S4 manifold if you choose to go that route.. the ones on the block are your primaries the two on the manifold are the secondaries... good luck

 

you can use the 2nd gen water pump, but if you do, you will need to grind your alternator strap down about a half a cm to clear the distributor. other than that, it's pretty much straightforward.

 

I'm in California, so I have to pass a visual as well to pass smog. So, need to keep the rats nest.

Got the front cover, water pump, the oil pan need, and BAC need to be swapped to the S4 block. Thanks for those tips. I'll follow the advise that staying with the S3 intake will work fine.

But, to summarize, everything else (emmissions especially) will just bolt up to the S4 block?

 

This is a easy swap, unless you want yours to look like mine then it takes some time,

S4 motor ported with gsl-se front cover, afm, injectors, oil pan, dizzy, and coils.
The s4 uim, lim, and tb fit nicely.
I recommend having your rad cleaned and dipped, injectors from the gsl-se motor sent off and rebuilt (rc eng. $25 an injector), new belts, new rad hoses, etc.

It is a nice swap with a bit more pow'ah!

And if you want you can use the GSL-se intakes. You will loose about 10 hp but it will run fine with the gsl-se's injectors.
I would block off the secondaries instead of plugging them.


Here is mine,

 

The square air port on the center housing on the GSL-SE for ACV activation is not the same on the S4 engine, they are located on the two side housings. This renders the ACV useless, which is a vital part of emissions reduction.

Sure everything that each one has explained will increase horsepower, make the engine bay look less cluttered, etc. but folks, we in California, especially rotary owners must undergo a bi-annual State certified Test Only smog and visual inspection. So unless our beloved 1st gen's are virtually stock, it will NOT pass this test.

What we do in between smogging is a matter of choice

 

ok, but wait. I have had several rotary motors pass emissions with no emissions crap on the motors. I did keep the cat so I could bolt it in when needed on the testing dates. A freinds gsl-se was not passing the test here so I told him to come over and let me look at it. He had a weber 45 carb on it with no emission control junk on the motor itself. I bolted my cat (stored for days like this) to his exhaust and told him to go retest.
His timing was set dead on with no advance timing.

He passed with flying colors.

 

They have to pass visual though, unlucky...

 

Is an s5 engine swap the same procedures?

 

Correction, not bi-annual... I meant every two years.

 

I would say for the most part yes. The S5 engine has higher compressed rotors and better manifolds, higher psi 7.5 I believe, waste gate, and some other things so the hp is increased from 182(S4T) to 200.

Now when doing the swap lies the question. Which engine should you choose? I am in the hunt(About to be real soon, so be on the look out for some SE engine/tranny/drive train parts) of either a beat up S4T or S5T with a blown motor. I am trying to figure out which car would be better fit for the swap. I am leaning towards the idea of going with whichever car I can get ^_^ But if I get the S4 I would get S5 rotors along with Rtek and will replace the complete turbo system either way. If I get an S5 I would go Mega Squirt for the time being.

But anyways, I am pretty sure it is the same procdedures, although I am a n00b in training. ^-^""