s4 13b into gsl-se project - reporting in (long, lots of pics)
03-23-05, 12:03 PM
#27
here's a shot of my LIM with the aux port actuators and control rods removed: http://www.redhavana.net/albums/engi...8071.sized.jpg
03-23-05, 04:28 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Nice job cpt_gloval!
I should probably install my engine today too, regardless of whether the waterpump is on it yet or not. I think I have an FC pump around here somewhere to replace that cast iron one.
I should probably install my engine today too, regardless of whether the waterpump is on it yet or not. I think I have an FC pump around here somewhere to replace that cast iron one.
03-23-05, 04:29 PM
#35
Hooray For Boobies!!!
Nice, Good Job. It's coming around.
Oh, BTW if you want to look at the vacuum lines and others on my totaled SE you should come over this weekend. The car will be halled off shortly.
Oh, BTW if you want to look at the vacuum lines and others on my totaled SE you should come over this weekend. The car will be halled off shortly.
03-23-05, 04:33 PM
#36
i definitely want to swing by. in fact i'll PM you and beg for your address right after i press submit.
edit: the spyder: yeah those washers are my stack of spares. never know when you're gonna need one. i should stack some on the other studs, too, for good measure.
edit: the spyder: yeah those washers are my stack of spares. never know when you're gonna need one. i should stack some on the other studs, too, for good measure.
Last edited by cpt_gloval; 03-23-05 at 04:39 PM.
03-23-05, 10:36 PM
#37
Blew my 3rd one 12/8/08
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vacuum lines weren't that hard at all really.. the nipples on the manifolds are in different order though.. i used the pdf that a forum member had up. Only prob i had was the timing, and once i learned how to set it through the plug holes it crunk right up. 200 miles and no probs yet. 
i'll get some pics up tomorrow, though your manifold is looking way better than mine.
i'll get some pics up tomorrow, though your manifold is looking way better than mine.
03-24-05, 08:05 AM
#38
Originally Posted by Unsupa
vacuum lines weren't that hard at all really.. the nipples on the manifolds are in different order though.. i used the pdf that a forum member had up.
I hoped that someone might find that useful. I created because I'll be doing the same thing as Cpt. Gloval - I have an SE witha big, gaping hole under the hood, and FC engines are a lot easier to find than SE engines. Besides which, my 'parts' SE came with an FC engine in it (with an internal coolant leak.) They (whoever the previous owners were) put the SE intake on it, which seemed asinine to me, so I mapped out the ports for both of the manifolds. Figured it might come in handy for someone else ting the same thing, so I uploaded it to my website. Glad it fulfilled its purpose!
03-24-05, 08:10 AM
#39
Originally Posted by cpt_gloval
here's a shot of my LIM with the aux port actuators and control rods removed: http://www.redhavana.net/albums/engi...8071.sized.jpg
But then, you're using the FC manifold, right? there's no shortage of those, so I suppose it's not really an issue. If it was the SE lower, then, well...
03-24-05, 11:20 AM
#40
Originally Posted by Frankenrex
Any particular reason that you put bolts in the 6-port shaft holes? I'd have just made aluminum plates in the shape of the shaft retainers, except solid, and bolted those over the holes with a little Right Stuff gasket maker, or cut a paper gasket. I just hate making irreversible mods, and tapping the shaft holes is definitely that.
But then, you're using the FC manifold, right? there's no shortage of those, so I suppose it's not really an issue. If it was the SE lower, then, well...
But then, you're using the FC manifold, right? there's no shortage of those, so I suppose it's not really an issue. If it was the SE lower, then, well...
Unsupa: what kind of difficulties did you have with the timing?
03-24-05, 03:00 PM
#41
Originally Posted by cpt_gloval
that was pretty much my thought process. the biggest reason i did the S4 swap was because FC 6-ports and 6-port parts are really ridiculously easy to find.
Unsupa: what kind of difficulties did you have with the timing?
Unsupa: what kind of difficulties did you have with the timing?
03-24-05, 11:57 PM
#42
Blew my 3rd one 12/8/08
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my pulley was really rusty so i couldn't set it to tdc before taking it off.. i used my SE pulley and had to use the apex through the trailing plug hole thing to get my pulley in the right vicinity. then i lined up the dizzy with the leading ignitor and it crunk right up. wouldn't had been much a problem had i of known of the trailing plug trick. i'll try to have pics up tomorrow..
03-25-05, 12:03 AM
#43
Blew my 3rd one 12/8/08
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my pulley was really rusty so i couldn't set it to tdc before taking it off.. i used my SE pulley and had to use the apex through the trailing plug hole thing to get my pulley in the right vicinity. then i lined up the dizzy with the leading ignitor and it crunk right up. wouldn't had been much a problem had i of known of the trailing plug trick. i'll try to have pics up tomorrow..
03-29-05, 03:19 AM
#45
Blew my 3rd one 12/8/08
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here's the pics.. i also realized that the plug to the 2nd gen bac shouldn't be spliced into the 1st gen plug..
Oh yea, thanks frankenrex for that vacuum diagram, helped me greatly.
Oh yea, thanks frankenrex for that vacuum diagram, helped me greatly.
03-29-05, 12:14 PM
#47
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ok i did this swap a few years back on my gsl-se. There seems to be alot of interest in this swap so i'll write up what i did and ran into. This is an s4 engine (block intake and blot on's using a gsl-se ecu and wiring).
First things first. Get the s4 block into the car.
1) swap out the oil pan and oil pick up. if you don't the pan will smack the cross member for the frame.
2) swap out the front cover so you can use the gsl-se engine mounting.
the oil cooler lines hook up just fine. so no worries there
lets talk about the emissions AKA crap.
1) you'll want to block off the EGR, ACV, and BAC. you can get the block off plates from racingbeat.com or mazdatrix.com. i couldn't find a blcok off plate for the s4 BAC on the UIM so i had to make one.
2)This kind of leads into another area... Rats nests. Get rid of it. 3/4 of the lines are now usless. if you plan on using the gsl-se distributor like i did then you need vacum for that, vacum for the preasure regulator, TB warmer, oil injection and the "pcv valve"
3)trash the air pump.
4) thers are all sorts of vacum switches and such. tash them all. except the one for the distributor. it's marked with a green dot.
now for the AC and Power steering
on the 2nd gen motors the AC and power steering pump are reversed when compared to a gsl-se. use your gsl-se mounting brackets and AC / Power Steering pump. everything should be ok.
Seems how your in the area, youll want to swap out the main pully for timing purposes.
ok back to the intake manifold. when using the firgen ecu you'll only be able to use 2 injectors so put the 2 stock gsl-se injectors in the holes on the center housing. the holes on the intake, remove the atomizers (little plastic thingys) and go get or make these. http://racingbeat.com/photos/18147.jpg
Thats a set of injection plugs. i had to cut the platte in half because th holes ar so far apart.
now that thats done lets move to the oil injection part. You have to remove the oil injection valve(mounts to the front cover) ans swap it with the sencondgen motor because rod that goes up the TB isn't bent the same because the TB on the 2nd gens sits differently from the GSL-SE.
words of advise... on your fuel rail.... trash the pulsation stopper and get a regular bango fitting. the type the 2nd gen motors use to connect the 2 fuel rails works great. also replace the rings. it's like $3 and can save your car from going up in flames. if you dissasymble the fuel rail replace the crush rings. again a few $ that can save you a lot of pain later.
moving on to exhaust. the second gen exhaust manifold will not hook up to you gsl-se stock exhaust. good solution is a nice racing beat header/full exhaust.
so now that the engine is in there lets talk about the small things.
lets start with the gas pedal and the TB. it'll barley be long enough to fit. but it will.
the cruise control however will not fit. you'll need a new cable.
snesors...ahh yes sensors. i couldn't get my engine to run until i swaped out my oil preasure. but it could have also just been a bad sernsor.
also the air temp sensor connector isn't the same on the UIM i use quick connects to connect them
now that we got everything except ignition lets do that. now go can hook up the gsl-se ignition stock but wheres the fun in that. i mean it's the only peice that you don't have screw with to get it to work. but my version more fun. i used a msd ignition and have direct fire off of 2 coils for my leading and the trailing still goes trough the distributor. people look at the and give me the "what the f*ck" look. i chopped the wires for the mag pick up in the distributor for the leading coil. and hooked that to the msd box and then wired 2 coilds on the box and away we go. i have yet to do it to the trailing because i'm worried that if i do it like that i might loose my injection because the injection is timed off the trailing spark. Go home and unpluge your trail coil and try to start you car. it won't run for long because the fuel injectors share the same curcit.
spend some time and figure out how you want to hook up for MAS on you intake. i just made my own cooler air intake. sounds speedy
And after the it's all gravy. i hope this helps some people. my car right now is a s4block and intake, full racing beat exhaust, msd ignition, eletrict fan, and my cold air intake dyno at 182 rwhp lots of tuning went into this.
btw little hint aswell. if you gsl-se floods go unplug the trailing coil wires and crank the motor and plug them back in and away you go. after the swap my car, the car floods only on hot days and when it's been off for like 30 seconds. i have a fuel pump cut off switch installed.
First things first. Get the s4 block into the car.
1) swap out the oil pan and oil pick up. if you don't the pan will smack the cross member for the frame.
2) swap out the front cover so you can use the gsl-se engine mounting.
the oil cooler lines hook up just fine. so no worries there
lets talk about the emissions AKA crap.
1) you'll want to block off the EGR, ACV, and BAC. you can get the block off plates from racingbeat.com or mazdatrix.com. i couldn't find a blcok off plate for the s4 BAC on the UIM so i had to make one.
2)This kind of leads into another area... Rats nests. Get rid of it. 3/4 of the lines are now usless. if you plan on using the gsl-se distributor like i did then you need vacum for that, vacum for the preasure regulator, TB warmer, oil injection and the "pcv valve"
3)trash the air pump.
4) thers are all sorts of vacum switches and such. tash them all. except the one for the distributor. it's marked with a green dot.
now for the AC and Power steering
on the 2nd gen motors the AC and power steering pump are reversed when compared to a gsl-se. use your gsl-se mounting brackets and AC / Power Steering pump. everything should be ok.
Seems how your in the area, youll want to swap out the main pully for timing purposes.
ok back to the intake manifold. when using the firgen ecu you'll only be able to use 2 injectors so put the 2 stock gsl-se injectors in the holes on the center housing. the holes on the intake, remove the atomizers (little plastic thingys) and go get or make these. http://racingbeat.com/photos/18147.jpg
Thats a set of injection plugs. i had to cut the platte in half because th holes ar so far apart.
now that thats done lets move to the oil injection part. You have to remove the oil injection valve(mounts to the front cover) ans swap it with the sencondgen motor because rod that goes up the TB isn't bent the same because the TB on the 2nd gens sits differently from the GSL-SE.
words of advise... on your fuel rail.... trash the pulsation stopper and get a regular bango fitting. the type the 2nd gen motors use to connect the 2 fuel rails works great. also replace the rings. it's like $3 and can save your car from going up in flames. if you dissasymble the fuel rail replace the crush rings. again a few $ that can save you a lot of pain later.
moving on to exhaust. the second gen exhaust manifold will not hook up to you gsl-se stock exhaust. good solution is a nice racing beat header/full exhaust.
so now that the engine is in there lets talk about the small things.
lets start with the gas pedal and the TB. it'll barley be long enough to fit. but it will.
the cruise control however will not fit. you'll need a new cable.
snesors...ahh yes sensors.
i couldn't get my engine to run until i swaped out my oil preasure. but it could have also just been a bad sernsor.also the air temp sensor connector isn't the same on the UIM i use quick connects to connect them
now that we got everything except ignition lets do that. now go can hook up the gsl-se ignition stock but wheres the fun in that. i mean it's the only peice that you don't have screw with to get it to work. but my version more fun. i used a msd ignition and have direct fire off of 2 coils for my leading and the trailing still goes trough the distributor. people look at the and give me the "what the f*ck" look. i chopped the wires for the mag pick up in the distributor for the leading coil. and hooked that to the msd box and then wired 2 coilds on the box and away we go. i have yet to do it to the trailing because i'm worried that if i do it like that i might loose my injection because the injection is timed off the trailing spark. Go home and unpluge your trail coil and try to start you car. it won't run for long because the fuel injectors share the same curcit.
spend some time and figure out how you want to hook up for MAS on you intake. i just made my own cooler air intake. sounds speedy
And after the it's all gravy. i hope this helps some people. my car right now is a s4block and intake, full racing beat exhaust, msd ignition, eletrict fan, and my cold air intake dyno at 182 rwhp
lots of tuning went into this.btw little hint aswell. if you gsl-se floods go unplug the trailing coil wires and crank the motor and plug them back in and away you go. after the swap my car, the car floods only on hot days and when it's been off for like 30 seconds. i have a fuel pump cut off switch installed.
