Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

anyone know how to get rid of rust bubbles from the drivers side rear wheel arch? got a few beginning there, and i would HATE to use bondo... My car is way too good for that!

but my interior is mint

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Nice interior, but pics of the rust will get you better advice. lol

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

I dont know if you can really see it in this pic, but they are small, nonetheless.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

tried haha. the car is about an hour away right now, that is the best i can do..

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Unfortunatly rust like that starts from the inside and works its way out, once you see it its too late...
I have some ideas on how to fix it, but your not gonna like any of them as they all involve massive amounts of metal work...
How is the rest of the car as far as rust goes?

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Mint. thats the only rust bubble I see ,and there is a tiny tiny one on the door, bu i have a few spare doors lying around

Bigmotoxer

Man I wish I could find some back seats like that!!!!!!!!!!!

DriftingB26RX7

iTrader: (4)

yeah thats nice for a 1st gen

Tha Driver

You'll have to cut out the rust & weld in new sheetmetal, if it's like every other car that rusts around the wheelwell (starts from the inside). And yes, you'll have to use bondo ( to finish out the welds): why the hell are folks so afraid of bondo? Every custom car & 99.9% of every car on the road has some!
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

I'd love to help you out - which way did you come in?

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yea I'm not sure why everyone thinks bondo is evil, probably because so many do it yourselfers use only bondo for repairs that should have used other methods as well. A little bondo to smooth out a weld, or to fill a small ding is perfectly fine, and if properly done will last as long as the rest of the body work around it.
As I said earlier, and Tha Driver just said, it starts from the inside, there is no easy fix for it, sorry man

Hades12

You will need to grind down the paint and see how bad the spots really are. Small places can be filled with just weld then cleaned up. IF the entire arch is bad then one will need to be made or used from another car.


Depending on how many layers of paint there is you many not need any filler, Just a high build primer and then paint.

wrigh003

I think it's because so many cars have been half-*** "repaired" with Bondo, and after a few years are worse off than they were before.

Bondo is necessary, unless you want to go old school and learn to hammer welds and fill with lead.

Overall, that's a pretty clean car, but if rust is bubbling the paint, it means that the panel under that paint is probably almost toast, so you'll have to weld in new metal or fill the perforations with weld, then grind, then bondo, then prime, then paint. If you're serious, now might be a good time to think about anywhere else that there might be rust and address it (check the insides of all your fenders, under the drain tubes from the sunroof/rear hatch, inside the doors), since you're going to be springing for a respray anyway to clean it all up after. My car is slowly but surely going from silver with cheesy 80s pinstripes to silver with gray polkadots.

jinx2007

I do this for a living. Grind it down, If its just surface rust , treat it with Rustmort. ITs a rust conversion chemical. then Prep, use a self etching primer Sand with 400 wet or finer, paint, call it a day!!!!

Tha Driver

Me too: for nearly 40 years. If it's just surface rust (which is very unlikely), the last thing you want to do if you want a permanent repair is use a rust converter. Surface rust should be sandblasted to remove ALL rust, metal prepped, & primed with epoxy primer. Anything less WILL come back to haunt you.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

If you choked a Smurff, what color would he turn?

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

Is that an arch Rival i see in the backround?????
BOOO NO VETTE'S