Paradox

iTrader: (1)

i've been having cooling probs, think i tracked it down to the waterpump and all is fixed. however when i was troubleshooting i gutted out my thermostat as to see if it was actually a non-mazda thermostat that was causing my overheating problems.

anyways, no the car doesnt overheat now, it just runs too cold.

i know this is not a great idea, but what im wondering is how dangerous is this to my engine, i cant see it being a problem in summer, but its dropping down to 8c or roughly 45f during the daytime here.

i ordered a mazda OEM t-stat but i'm wondering with the alum. block if its a bad idea to drive too much until i recieve this and swap it in?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

when you say gutted...is it bacically the housing without the spring and flapper?

my car was still able to warm up when it was like that..

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

yeah, thats what i meant the t-stat is just the housing. i'm sure it would stay warm too if i lived in florida haha

compared to the rest of canada the ambient temperature stays pretty warm here, hardly ever down to freezing. im just wondering it i can drive like this for another week or two without harming anything?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

How cold is cold. Running a cold engine reduces gas mileage and increases wear. You could try blocking the radiator to reduce air flow through it, just watch your temps.

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

cold is the bottom of the first knotch on the stocker temp gauge when highway driving at night.

so ya. shes cold. too bad my aftermarket temp gauge is fucked or i'd know more accurately.

Atkins Mama

In the first gens if you run with out the thermostat, with out plugging the hole in the housing, just below the thermostat, you will damage the engine. the thermostat guts open & close the foot on the bottom to open and close the flow to the radiator. So the wrong one or a bad one can & will damge the engine in a matter of time. It can show cold depending on the location of the sensor and if the flow is not moving to the radiator and staying in the engine, your readings will be inaccurate.. Hope I didnt confuse you, just want to save your engine ;-)
Kathy

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

yes Kathy i think i understand about plugging that hole from other threads. i cant say im ready to plug it though so this is a short term fix, week or two max (soon as parts get here). i tried a couple thermostats from NAPA and kept running hot. i guess i'll just put another one in for now.. even though it seems only mazda thermostats work properly.

there is a extra hole in the top of the mazda thermostats, forget the name of it, but from my experience the non-OEM ones do not have this.

SparkienSuggah

one more thing to consider: the oil cooler beehive is on the bypass line (in paralell with the heater core). without the resistance of the thermostat the beehive may not get enough cooiling action, leaving the oil to simmer inside your engine... got beehive?

Paradox

iTrader: (1)

nope i got front mount

SparkienSuggah

actually, ive got a front mount as well, in my garage.. i was thinking of getting some custom hoses fabbed and then running front mount in series with the beehive... i spent soo much time installing the bastard, and then i learned its gonna coke out my dowel pin seals and kidnap my unborn children... crap

MarkPerez

Make sure the thermastat is installed correct BTW. Moroso makes a water restrictor(s) , the kit has 3 sizes and work very good, no more t-stat. you can also use a rag or some cloth and pin to the front of the radiator to raise temps untill new parts

bliffle

You can have a new t'stat from mazdatrix in 3 days. While you're at it, get a new japanese rad cap from them for $12. Solved the coolant loss problem and overheating in my 85GSL.

B