1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so I just went and picked myself up an engine stand just so I can roll my engine around and keep it out of the way...Im not at the point of building it up yet, so I dont really need to get one of those plates to support the engine vertically for stacking the housings.

Im just wondering if Its alright to support it solely with the front cover mounts for the time being. I definately dont want to have it supported unsafely, and I am questioning the strength of the 4 bolts in the front cover to hold it up.
Is this an alright way to support the engine, or should I find a way to cradle it better?

If that doesnt sound safe to you guys, any ideas????

Rogue_Wulff

I took the arms off, and the plate fit right over the A/C mounting studs. No need for a special adapter.
I wouldn't advise hanging it from the front cover. It would be better to use the arms and hang it from the rear like you would a piston engine, if the plate those arms bolt to will not fit on the front housing studs.

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Thats what the stand looks like if anyone is wondering. I didnt mention it before, but I dont really wanna spend much more money to mount it up, so the simplest and easiest idea is the best!

Rogue_Wulff

Remove those arms, and it should bolt up to the front housing studs (A/C).

1badFB

iTrader: (1)

Doesnt sound like a bad idea, just the 2 studs will work?

Rogue_Wulff

That's exactly what I do. Only the 2 studs on the front iron can be used if you are disassembling the engine.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I bought an adapter off eBay for my engine stand.

Rich

gonzz

How much?

Lee Lyons

you could easily make an adaptor plate yourself if you were so inclined enough to do it

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

if you take one arm off you can arrange the 3 to the back conventional style.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I think it was $45.

Rich

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you could "easily" make one...not one like the one I bought anyway, unless you have a really heavy duty metal bending break...this thing is made from some thick stuff. The design itself is quite simple...just not easily made by the weekend warrior.

Rich

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Do not bolt to the front cover. I remove the mounting studs for ac/ps and run long bolts through the arms, more clearance that way, especially when dealing with S3 rear irons.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Man, please someone search this question as it has been asked several times.

Those arms and the plate is not needed! We have built several motor using just the stand. Would the plate make it easier? I would say no but to each his own.
See pics:

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

You need to use the arms with the S3 rear iron because the coolant pipe is longer due to the tee for the beehive.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Bolt the stand to the front iron. See above pics

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Or you can forget what everyone else said in this thread and follow my advice.

I use all four arms. No need for a special 'rotary' adaptor head. The only time I ran into a problem was on an S3 rear plate with its longer heater tube. Slightly shorter arms would do the trick, I think.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Look at his picture.
Take the second arm (going from the top down) of the motor and off the stand.
Now you have 3 arms only.
See where the arms bolt to the motor?
See where the arms bolt to the stand?
Now remove the arms and bolt the motor to the stand and be done with all the nonsence. It is quite easy and no need for any special plate or adjustable arms to adjust.

But to each his own so it's your money if you want a fancy bracket.

Blake

We have the "original" Rotary Engine Stand Adaptor, which includes bolts to attach it to the engine stand and lug nuts to attach the engine to the adaptor ($10 value). We also include a free Eccentric Oil Bypass Elimination Kit (three 5/16th inch lockwashers with instructions ), so you don't waste $10+ on an unnecessary machined insert. The adaptor is 7/16th inch thick steel, plasma cut, formed and powdercoated. Well balanced and strong enough to support a fully-dressed engine.



http://www.pineappleracing.com

Atkins Dan

Here is mine on E-bay with link below...


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...2616021&rd=1,1


Later
Dan

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I use the ghetto method. No stand and no adapter. Just a 5 gallon bucket and a chair to sit on while doing the rebuild. It works fine. Some ways having a stand is better, but the bucket method lets you sit down while doing the rebuild and it doesn't cost anything.

rOtAryIsbEttEr

i cut a hole in the bottom of a plastic milk crate, turned it upside down and use it to unstack and eventually stack a motor