sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I'm looking for a full cage with the same bars in this link below. This one is 875 shipped, which is decent, but anyone know where to get one for cheaper?

http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP591

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

Hey man.... my buddy that I just built an engine for welds,and is going to be doing my cage, he'd probably be willing to do yours for some parts or some cash. He's stil looking for some 4x110 (non stock) wheels and a big axle (84-85) LSD and disk brakes. He's also looking for a lightweight flywheel. Shoot me a PM if you're interested and I'll see if he can swing it. You'll still have to buy the tubing, but it will be WAY cheaper.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I am a welder also and I have a mandrel bender. The only reason I don't want to build it myself is the cost of the tubing is crazy right now. It's not much more if you buy a pre-bent one and saves you a TON of time.

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

on the up side building your own is cheaper it sounds to me like your paying way to much my full cage for my 4X4 only cost me 150$ in 2 by 1/8 inch wall. go to your local scrap yard and keep your eyes open for the pipe you need if you can wait and get all the sizes you need or can cut down you can get away cheap.

Slow down no point in paying 850+ for something that should only cost you 100$

85TIIDEVIL

iTrader: (2)

I have some 4x110's 14" that I'd part with. I been holding them ever since I swapped over to a SE suspension / pattern in hopes of picking up another 12a 1st gen, but I don't think that's going to happen. I'm pretty happy with what I have & barely have enough time w/out adding another project. I'm contemplating getting rid of all the parts I've been hoarding for the past 15 years. Anyways... Here's a pic when they were on my car. They have near new tires and I have the complete set to convert over to standard studs / lugs. PM if you think your buddy might be interested.

Gurew

iTrader: (4)

safety should never have a pricetag....

stofficer1226

x2 but just because it's crazy expensive doesn't mean it's crazy safe. If you get your main hoop wrong in your back yard your cage will be useless. And if it's a street car, why the hell are you putting a full cage in? I hope you will have a helmet on at all times. If you disagree, let your friend hit you in the head as hard as he can with a 2" pipe. Matter fact, put the foam padding on there too. Make sure you get it on video, because you wont remember what happened.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

It's not a street car. It's for the Chump Car/LeMONS arcing series.

There's no such thing as a scrap yard with nice DOM tubing that will pass tech inspection either. DOM is about $10 a foot right now. Nobody is just giving away steel anymore. Try throwing some scrap away in front of your house. Guaranteed it will not be there in the morning. Late night pickers come by and pick it all up to scrap it for extra cash.

I can build cages. I'm a machinist, welder, and all around fabricator. But without buying tons (literally) at a time, it's almost comes out cheaper to buy a pre-bent cage. So no links cheaper than the one I posted?

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

http://compare.ebay.com/like/2606110...=263602_304662

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

they have new and used

bwaits

iTrader: (12)

You going to make Rockingham in March for the Chumpcar? I am trying to get there.

You can try the guys at Kirk racing. They have pre-bent, you weld cages. Just ask them to add a 5" to the end of each tube so you can get the main hoop up higher and the a pillar tubes further forward than their standard cage.

-billy

gawdodirt

WOW! $10 a foot for DOM??!?

Just got a quote for 1.750 x .120 4130 starting at $7.55 / ft. So if you buy more, it's cheaper. And it's delivered.

The DOM was 1.500 x .095 I presume?

You own a mandrel bender?

GD

Verneuil

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-3000/

IDK if anyone has tried this before.

gawdodirt

In most sanctioning bodies, ERW tubing is not accepted. Only mild steel that is, is DOM 1020.

GD

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

Wow, 500 shipped is not bad at all... I will look into this for sure. It is ERW, but it does meet safety specs for OD and wall thickness. Have you used one of these? How was fitment if you have?

I think we will be trying to make it to the 14 hour race at Sebring in September. Since we just started on the car now, we need time to make it worthy. After that, we plan on racing as much as possible. If we get lucky and finish the car earlier, we will enter races wherever we can. LeMONS or Chump Car.

Man, I must of been looking in the wrong place? I do own a bender, but even still. Buying a pre-bent one comes to around the same price. But a pre-bent ERW cage, not DOM. Safety is about the same, and it dosnt add much more weight over DOM. I think 500 shipped is a more than fair price.

legokcen

iTrader: (8)

I got mine from Kirk Racing. http://www.kirkracing.com/

I would highly recommend them.

Man_in_black49464

iTrader: (1)

i have not used the ebay one but they have a ebay store that has all kinds of options and the sell a bunch of rx7 stuff so i would assume they fit it into a FB well.
Call them and ask a couple of questions

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

We went with the AutoPower Bolt in cage at the 24 PBIR season ender race.The only think we need to add for next time is a seat brace. We got the one for our first gen used and left it bolt in so we can easily transfer it to another body if needed.

You can start with that and weld it rather than bolting. The GRM Lincoln team did just that.

Still looking to sell the 2nd gen BTW?

mustanghammer

iTrader: (3)

I bought 40 ft -1 1.5x.090 DOM for around $160.00 this summer. We have a wholesale account with a distribtor. Steel cost more than it used to for sure but it still not that bad if you know where to shop for it.

As far as bolt in cages like the auto power kits they are usually built with over-spec tubing and are heavier than they need to be as a result. Also the method of attachment and where they locate is not very good unless you reinforce the mounting locations with some 1/8" plate. I'm not saying that cages are poorly built - just how they attach leaves something to be desired.

I guess the good part would be that you can remove the cage and use it in something else.

jgrewe

iTrader: (1)

What car are you building? FB or FC? That page lists the same cage for all of them, kind of weird.

I have an FB that has a cage in it outside my shop. I kept the chassis in case I caught the Lemons fever. It looks like it was an Autopower bolt in bar that had been added on to, its welded together but still bolted to the car itself. I'd make you a deal on the whole car or sell you the cage. I think it could be cut out in 3 or 4 pieces.

edit: I can look in the logbook to see what its made of, it's an old ITS car built in the 90's

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

^FB

Yes, definitely interested! PM me more info! I'm pretty sure my 1st gen is in much to nice condition to use as a Chump Car/LeMONS racer. It's not the cleanest, but to clean for these races.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

I am torn between keeping for the parts, and letting it go because I really do need the space.

I'll give you a definite answer by this weekend. Sorry for the stalling.

HadaGSL-SE

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like jgrewe's chassis would be the best way to go.

We were severely under braked and under tire'd for PBIR 24 hours. We had all the power in the world with the V8 and were hitting close to 130 on the back straight but had to let off way early so we could stop. Went through 11 brake pads. Pretty much every two hours we were at the metal. Other team only did one or two changes throughout the race. Granted we had crappy pads but new rotors and calipers. I would invest in some Hawk or Porterfields next time.

We are looking to do the Second Gen front subframe swap to get the better brakes and maybe run Diamonds or custom drill the rear axles to take 5x114.3.