$10.00 per week? Geeez, Jim, you either aint going anywhere (20 miles/gallon - town- average) or you are the most conserverative driver ever. I wish I only had to spend $10.00 per week. I drive 340 klms each fortnight to collect my 5 year old and other general running around I use $30 - 40.00. So all up I am looking at about $70.00 per week, mind you my fuel is average $0.80c per litre (62 litre tank) . . .
As with your guys redline buzzer, mine sounds NOTHING like a horn. My horn is kind of UHHHHHHHHHUH! and my red liner is more - BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ - the buzz is cool. . .
Someone should record it and post it here as an mp3 !!!

 

yea, i only spend 10 bucks a week becasue well tahts all my mom gives me lol tahts for school so i drive about 12 miles there adn 12 miles back, and i finally rung my buzzer today. was gonna do it in first gear but i decided to do it in second gear, about 65 mph at 7grand and my buzzer was more of a sound like the most annoying sound in the world off dumb and dumber. but it was still sweet, i adjusted my idle today, got it down to about 900 to 1000 and now when i get on it man does she go, shift into 2nd and 3rd gear i can squak the tires without having to rev up between gears its sweet

 

I never higher than 7100rpm with my car, but i really don't know if i have one? i have a 83 gs.

Max

 

mine went off at 6 k. i hit it all the time.

i noticed, however, that after about 7k, the engines power seemed to go down. so i used it as a shift indicator whenever i wanted to go fast.

 

This is one of the biggest lines of BS there is on these forums.

Reving past 7 or even 8K won't hurt the rotary, but it doesn't need it.


Racing Beat was talking specifically about the engine internals. The "limit" of 8,400 RPMs has nothing to do with water pump, alternater, ect...even OMP.

They suggest for racing applications a water pump that won't cavitate at speed, and running premix.

 

Sometimes I use the buzzer on the 85 to tell me when to shift while accelerating onto the freeway in traffic. Redlind at 7k. The 83 doesn't buzz, never did, so sometimes I overrev to almost 8k, but that engine is sooo smooooth it's hard to tell. Both engines run pretty smooth so I don't mind maintaining 4-5k in traffic ready to stomp and pass. But mostly I am very conservative, keeping it 2500-5000 with light throttle.

B

 

I run mine to the buzzer just to scare the **** out of my girl friend she thinks the car is going to blow up or something. It's damn intertaining, Wish all my cars had them

 

Ok wat gear do half of u drive in? When i drive expressway i run about 3500 4000 tops, but some of u are talking about keepin it around 5000, thatd put me at 100mph, do u have dif tires than stock or dif gear ratio, or do u just drive 100 mph

 

Just keep it in third gear! (Poised and ready to leap into action!)

 

oh that would e funny, id spend so much on gas

 

The comment about RB and the comments about other engine components were separate thoughts, hence the reason for the CRs between them I just thought it interesting the RB was stating that 8400 seemed to be a limit of some type, had not heard that before but they clearly know what they are talking about. I just wanted to point out to people that redline was not just a function of the motor itself, there is other stuff attached to it that has to run that fast too.....

 

yeah i just got an 85 gs, and i hit the rev buzzer on the way home from buying it. i knew what it was and kinda liked it... haha, i missed third driving her hard so it went off. my bad, did it with a buddy in the car and he started looking around for who honked at me, hahah was enteraining.

 

yeah i just got an 85 gs, and i hit the rev buzzer on the way home from buying it. i knew what it was and kinda liked it... haha, i missed third driving her hard so it went off. my bad, did it with a buddy in the car and he started looking around for who honked at me, hahah was enteraining.

 

hoooollllaaay, my bad on the double post, stupid net

 

I see.

...also-
as 8400 is the "magic #" according to RB, the other thing is that apparently (according to people on this site) the stock tachs are unpredictably, inconsistantly inaccurate as well!

I'm willing to bet that there are many, many of us that have brought our poor engines well past the magic # and not known it thinking the tach was being accurate.
I've played with the tach, and there's no pin, but the the armature can't turn past the approximately 882-8300 RPM point.
IE, you could bury the tach without realizing it.

Also, I have an aluminum flywheel, and I'm quite certain I've blown past 8400 a few times when I first put it in.

Anyway, no blue smoke yet. All things in moderation except beer.

 

Yeah... it is true that rotaries NEED a good revving.
But not redline every drive. Spirited driving is fine and carbon building doesn't happen overnight (er... hope my biology teacher doesn't hear me say that). My aunt had the 7 before i got it and she lived on an island and only made short trips. She would just put the car in 5th and drive around. City... highway... you name it... 5th gear was THE gear. Before i got the car she was talking about how they had to fix it by revving it a lot and from tehn on she had to drive it by shifting at 4k.
I am not sure where i am going with that story but it relates to the topic. And redlining a rotary every drive is highly unecessary.

Zachstylez

 

i have heard mine before,but not anymore.Exhaust is a bit to loud to hear it.

*off the topic*
Does anyone have ideas about a rev limiter that can be constructed ,so that i dont blow it up if i miss a gear at 8800 ?

Karis

 

Actually I have an idea, but I can't gaurantee it'll work, nor do I have enough time and interest to try it...

When I removed my buzzer, I hardwired a buzzer to a long pair of wires. I also removed the circuit board potentiometer that adjusts when the buzzer goes off, and hardwired a larger one (of the same ohms, 10K) on long wires.
The idea was that when I custom did my center console, I could mount the pot in it and slap on a dial. The buzzer would eventually be removed, and it would be wired to a relay that would power an electric exhaust dump I fabricated. (Exhaust dump is a ground out aluminum Dodge T-body, bicycle cable to operate the butterfly valve, and an Rx-7 AC vent damper motor (12v, 1" swing arm, 180* swing). It worked a while, but became finiky, and the electric motor would keep trying to open and shut the exhaust dump even when I set the tach threshold to 3K RPMs.

Anyway, it became a nuicance, and the motor burned out. I was also getting stopped by every redneck local yocal with a badge, gun, and shiny lights on his car.

However, the idea DID work. And I feel that with the proper relay, proper wiring, and a little forethought, that same set-up could be wired into the ignition to ground it out or open the circuit.

The relay keeps the circuits seperate and therefore keeps the ignition circuit from burning the delicate tach circuitry. Probably only 9-12V (supposedly it's 12, but it fluctuates) is actually making it to the buzzer hanging on my wires. If I replaced it with a relay, the relay could be a sensative 9 volt relay as long as it has beefy contact points for the other end where it could allow higher voltage through without welding the contacts together!

Still, I'm not sure I would trust it to keep an engine that I really cared alot about safe from over reving.

Perhaps the relay thing is best left to things like running the rear windscreen reservoir pump with the resevoir filled with oil, and tubed down to the exhaust to make a smokescreen!

 

Hehe...
Good to see you enjoying the new wheels Zal...

 

After installing the haltech I realized how off the stock tach is. Mine is off by about 250 at 4k and 500 at 7k. So my buzzer would come on at the tach's redline, 7k, but in reality it is only 6.5k, leaving me plenty more playing room that I rarely used before the swap.

 

After installing the haltech I realized how off the stock tach is. Mine is off by about 250 at 4k and 500 at 7k. So my buzzer would come on at the tach's redline, 7k, but in reality it is only 6.5k, leaving me plenty more playing room that I rarely used before the swap.

 

The buzzer gets old fast. Just like the stupid *** shift lights on monster tachs that some guys think is cool for the street. How gay! Like I have to have a light tell me when to shift...... on a mostly stock car! I dug the buzzer out of the instrument cluster when one of the speedo screws came loose and fell to the bottom. I know it`s time to shift when my ears start to bleed!

Toughguy

 

mines broken...

but i have an auto so there no point in redlining cause its slow either way..

-greg

 

Red line? Doesn't that cease to exist in rotaries? I thought those limitations only exist in piston pushers.

I like blowing past the buzzer, but could do without the continuing din. Maybe just a bleep when I hit 7.5 to let me know as I go by.

 

I wouldn't excercise hitting redline too often. Prolly won't do much to ur engine, but exceeding past 8.4k rpm is one of the more easier ways to blow a motor.

Zachstylez