1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Restoration underway...

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-20-04 | 09:59 PM
  #1  
Thread Starter
Newbie
 
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: New York / North Carolina
Question Restoration underway...

Hello all,

First, thanks to the admin for solving my activation problem. Little bit about myself... I'm a KC-130 flight mechanic in the Marine Corps, hopefully going back to the reserves in the next month or two. I have an 82 GSL back home waiting for me and I'm really anxious to get it back into tip top shape so I can have something fun to zoom around in when I go home.

Bought the car for 500 bucks a few years ago. It looked terrible because of the sunfading, etc. During my first visit home last thanksgiving, my parents gave me a great surprise... the car was painted! It looks fantastic as the guy who did the work really did a knockout job. It was painted with some kind of plastic-base paint (not really sure what it's called), but my dad said he was told the paint was fully cured in two days unlike enamels that have to be baked on. It was some expensive paint however... especially for such a small car. It's back to it's stock gold glory and looking the way it did in 1982. It also, thankfully, is still all metal.

I want to do some things to it to get it back on the road and I thought I'd ask around here first.

Exhaust: I've found 3 types... the two from victoria british (what appears to be "stock" and the Monza system), and the rather pricey one from Racing Beat. Which exhaust would you all recommend? Is the racing beat "power pulse" system worth the extra bones? How about the catalytic bypass pipe... and how do the headers from monza and racing beat go as far as improving performance? Should I just clean up my stock header and keep with it?

Wheels: I'll admit it... I don't really have much taste for the aluminum 4-spoke 13" wheels. I'm not a big fan of using monster wheels with condom-thin tires... sure it might improve cornering... up to a certain point, but I hate the idea of 1) potholes ruining my wheels and 2) once those condom wheels go... good luck trying to regain traction. I prefer a much more gradual slide entry (I would like to start autocrossing with this vehicle). I like the looks of the Panasport wheels, but can't find any vendors for them... any opinions about the panasports or another wheel that will give me some good clean looks... looking for a 14 or 15"... haven't decided if I want to stay with 13" wheels or not (rubber sure would be cheap though... I could change tires like I change my shorts). I was thinking of going with a 205 width tire. Any thoughts on the best wheel width for this? Is a 215 too much for general zooming around and occasional autocross?

Transmission and clutch: I've got a grind (developed shortly after I bought it... even though I didn't really drive it hard at all) from 1st to 2nd gear. It happens mostly when the car is still cold. How difficult/costly is it to rebuild the stock transmission? I've never rebuilt a tranny before and I would need someone to break it down Barney-style for me. Also, while I'm in there, would it be worth the money to get a Racing beat street use clutch? Seems the one I have right now starts to slip at about 85 MPH... or so it seems. The engine will still go up, but the speed does not and I can smell clutch after pulling over. Any other clutches recommended?

Undercoat: I plan to keep this little baby for quite some time, and the underside has a fair amount of surface rust, but nothing that a rotary steel brush wouldn't fix. Any recommendations on undercoating? I've never done it or had it done. Different paints/coating materials? I'm thinking I will do this step before the others as I would have to take off the exhaust anyway (the exhaust fell off while my mom was driving it... leave the country for a few months and see what the parents do? sheesh)

I've got some other questions but I'll leave it at that for now. Thanks again for all of your help.

Eoin Finn
Old 01-20-04 | 10:51 PM
  #2  
mazdaverx713b's Avatar
Have RX-7, will restore
Veteran: Army
iTrader: (91)
 
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 21,911
Likes: 1,101
From: Ohio
hooah for being in the marine corps. i am in the army and i love serving this nation. as far as the exhaust is concerned, go with the racing beat system. far superior! do some searching and you will understand. the trans prob has worn syncronizers. rebuild is not too difficult but i have fixed grinds by using GM synchromesh trans fluid and shifting slower. the street clutch is plenty, especially if you aren't making a huge amount of power. a stock mazda clutch unit would be fine. do not forget to replace the pilot bearing though. the exhaust is what mazdatrix told me a 44% increase. i cannot verify this. but i can tell you it is a night and day difference. good luck soldier, keep truckin. we tracking???
Old 01-20-04 | 11:35 PM
  #3  
eddierotary's Avatar
back with rotaries
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,239
Likes: 1
From: Watertown, NY
dont get monza/ pacesetter exhaust, from what i heard from most people that have them they get rusted or bad after a few months. Racing Beats exhaust worth every penny if your planning to stay almost stock they produce about 25% more power that stock exhaust, and yes is pricy but is worth it. another upgrade you can do is putting a K&N drop in filter on the stock air filter. and about the transmition well if is on cold it jus mabe needs to change the oil on it. one oil that cures that is AMSOIL 75w 90, i use that on my turbo II transmition and it works. the racing beat street strip clutch is good enought for street and some autoX. and 205 tires are like the max tires you can use on a rx7 because any bigger than that will rub with the fenders.
about the panasport wheels, well i really dont know were to find them ether but maibe somebody in the forum will know were to get the, they arent cheap.and undercoating is a great upgrade for non rusted rx7 but add weight
Old 02-01-04 | 09:18 PM
  #4  
7aull's Avatar
RX HVN
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,889
Likes: 228
From: Arizona
I second the vote on the RB exhaust. Worth every penny. Direct bolt-in, quality materials. I'd buy it from Mazdatrix, since the RB guys are boneheads when it comes to customer service (mazdatrix.com). Sumitomo makes a nice 13" 205/60 HR rated tire, and Falken JUST came out with one, too. Tirerack.com seems cheapest, especially in shipping dept.
Rust protection prevention? I use POR15 products. Seems to be very bullet proof finish. POR15.com
Good luck soldier- thanks for making us all safe!
Stu Aull
Alaska
80GS
Old 02-01-04 | 10:15 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 332
Likes: 0
From: TN
If you get bigger rims try and get the yokohama es100's. I have these tires and I absolutely love them.
I used to live on the landing aproach to Barkesdale Airforce Base in Louisiana and I loved watching the KC-130's and KC-135's fly over. Good luck with your car.
Old 02-01-04 | 10:35 PM
  #6  
Junia's Avatar
Uchinanchu
 
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 937
Likes: 0
From: Orlando, FL
Hey whats up. Well I just started my terminal leave from the Marine Corps last friday. Anyway, I'd have to agree about the RB exhaust. If you're patient enough you can pick them up on ebay because they pop up quite often.
Old 02-01-04 | 10:35 PM
  #7  
10,000's Avatar
Full Member

 
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 160
Likes: 1
From: Sandy Eggo
Hell yeah, you guys are right on.
RB exhaust all the way (nothing else will last as long)
Panasports or Kosei K1's from tirerack
Amsoil lubricants are the best you can get
POR -15 kicks major *** (and actually kills rust)
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
WyomingTII
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
12
09-28-15 10:32 AM



Quick Reply: Restoration underway...



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:28 PM.