REspeed coilovers
#26
Originally Posted by legokcen
I just sent a PM to Billy about it. I'll get the info together for the GB or Coilover/Camber Plate package deal and set it up. I'm waiting to hear back from him now.
Originally Posted by Dan_s_young
Any suggestions on a source for the springs needed?
Originally Posted by 82transam
One thing that confuses me is why the weld on version is cheaper than the "street" version
Originally Posted by XLR8
I hope very much that they are hear to stay. I know how hard it can be for a small business to stay afloat.
All I ask is that everyone understand, bringing products to the market takes a great deal of time. Since I am currently responsible for two other companies besides ReSpeed, sometimes it may seem like our new products take their sweet time to come out. Just understand we are always working to get them on the market.
Originally Posted by woodonastick
hope i save some money too since i bought the respeed camber plates just last week
-billy
#28
Group Buy information and interest set up here:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...83#post6460383
Please indicate your interest there so that we can set it up. I've talked with Billy and I'll update the thread as I continue to get more info from him or the forum on the GB setup.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...83#post6460383
Please indicate your interest there so that we can set it up. I've talked with Billy and I'll update the thread as I continue to get more info from him or the forum on the GB setup.
#29
RE Speed Coilover Package
Guys,
I would definately be in on a group buy. If there is not enough interest, I will buy them direct. Those pieces look like they are well worth the money, and I can finally correct most of the inherent steering geometry problems with my FB SE.
Shoot me a PM or email at sergiosavoy@netscape.net.
Sergio
-evita-
I would definately be in on a group buy. If there is not enough interest, I will buy them direct. Those pieces look like they are well worth the money, and I can finally correct most of the inherent steering geometry problems with my FB SE.
Shoot me a PM or email at sergiosavoy@netscape.net.
Sergio
-evita-
#30
Originally Posted by evita
Guys,
I would definately be in on a group buy. If there is not enough interest, I will buy them direct. Those pieces look like they are well worth the money, and I can finally correct most of the inherent steering geometry problems with my FB SE.
Shoot me a PM or email at sergiosavoy@netscape.net.
Sergio
-evita-
I would definately be in on a group buy. If there is not enough interest, I will buy them direct. Those pieces look like they are well worth the money, and I can finally correct most of the inherent steering geometry problems with my FB SE.
Shoot me a PM or email at sergiosavoy@netscape.net.
Sergio
-evita-
Thanks.
#32
Turn In Spacers
Yes, the turn in spacers increase the turning radius because they help to correct the inherent ackerman problems that the FB front suspension has. If you do a search on ackerman you will find a discussion about it and other suspension geometry problems.
#33
Details of the GB here as well.
$250 for camber plates and Street/Race coil overs.
OR
$320 will include 1" Roll Center blocks
$230 for camber plates and Road Race coil overs.
OR
$300 will include 1" Roll Center blocks.
Please go to:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...83#post6460383
And indicate on that post if you'd like to be in on the group buy.
$250 for camber plates and Street/Race coil overs.
OR
$320 will include 1" Roll Center blocks
$230 for camber plates and Road Race coil overs.
OR
$300 will include 1" Roll Center blocks.
Please go to:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...83#post6460383
And indicate on that post if you'd like to be in on the group buy.
#34
With out getting to deep into this our blocks correct the Roll Center on lowered vehicles. When a vehicle is lowered the relationship of the outer pick up point to the inner pivot point of the control arms is changed. The inner pivot will drop closer to the ground where as the outer does not.
The roll center is the point where an imaginary line drawn through the lower control arms intersects the vehicle centerline. If the control arms are angled down then the roll center is above the inner pivot points. If the control arm is horizontal to the ground the roll center is equal to the inner pivot point. If the control arm is angled up the roll center is below the inner pivot point and could be under ground.
The further away the roll center is from the center of gravity of the vehicle the more leverage the body has to roll in a corner. More leverage means it takes bigger sway bars and higher rate springs to stop it. The vehicle body while cornering will roll along the roll axis. Roll axis is a line drawn from rear roll center to the front roll center. Your rear roll center is either at the height of you watts linkage (For stock guys) or a panhard if you have installed one.
There are also problems with your bump steer changing. Our blocks go between the steering arm and the strut housing to space the outer pick up point back down.
-billy
The roll center is the point where an imaginary line drawn through the lower control arms intersects the vehicle centerline. If the control arms are angled down then the roll center is above the inner pivot points. If the control arm is horizontal to the ground the roll center is equal to the inner pivot point. If the control arm is angled up the roll center is below the inner pivot point and could be under ground.
The further away the roll center is from the center of gravity of the vehicle the more leverage the body has to roll in a corner. More leverage means it takes bigger sway bars and higher rate springs to stop it. The vehicle body while cornering will roll along the roll axis. Roll axis is a line drawn from rear roll center to the front roll center. Your rear roll center is either at the height of you watts linkage (For stock guys) or a panhard if you have installed one.
There are also problems with your bump steer changing. Our blocks go between the steering arm and the strut housing to space the outer pick up point back down.
-billy
#35
Hmm, so do they reduce the turning radius then? I was talking to rx7carl a while back and he has the G force engineering ones, and says that it does reduce the turning radius enough that he wouldn't use them in his street car, just his race car. Seeing as theres not many ways to make these things i'd assume the same is true here... Either way, intersting stuff....
#36
I might be interested in a group buy but someon has to buy them and give feed back before I would be willing to jump in on a new product. Not that i dout the quality of the product or anything billy. I would just like someone to use them before i put any money in to them. Keep up the good work billy.
#37
Originally Posted by 82transam
Hmm, so do they reduce the turning radius then? I was talking to rx7carl a while back and he has the G force engineering ones, and says that it does reduce the turning radius enough that he wouldn't use them in his street car, just his race car. Seeing as theres not many ways to make these things i'd assume the same is true here... Either way, intersting stuff....
The blocks we currently offer do not change the turning radius. These are street style blocks that are through bolted. We will have race blocks out later this month.
-billy
#38
Billy,
Handling wise, which one would be better for the RX-3 with FB struts/GC coil-over kit/tokico 7" springs on RESpeed camber kti plus a 1" aluminum triangular spacer (similar to the stocker)?
1" or 1.5"
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/
Handling wise, which one would be better for the RX-3 with FB struts/GC coil-over kit/tokico 7" springs on RESpeed camber kti plus a 1" aluminum triangular spacer (similar to the stocker)?
1" or 1.5"
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/
#39
Originally Posted by wackyracer
Billy,
Handling wise, which one would be better for the RX-3 with FB struts/GC coil-over kit/tokico 7" springs on RESpeed camber kti plus a 1" aluminum triangular spacer (similar to the stocker)?
1" or 1.5"
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/
Handling wise, which one would be better for the RX-3 with FB struts/GC coil-over kit/tokico 7" springs on RESpeed camber kti plus a 1" aluminum triangular spacer (similar to the stocker)?
1" or 1.5"
http://www.mrcmfg.com/respeed/catalog/
I would say the 1.5" since you have dropped the 3 a good bit. Replied to your pm also.
-billy
#42
ok, what spring rates and sizes would you recommend for street use with occasional autocross and track use?
also, what shocks to use? can tokico hp's dampen springs of too heavy a poundage?
also, what shocks to use? can tokico hp's dampen springs of too heavy a poundage?
#44
RE Coilovers
Hopefully more people will get interested!
I plan on running 350 lb 7in springs front, and the racing beat springs in rear. I will keep the HP blues in the rear, but run the Tokico BZ1069 adjustables in the front.
I plan on running 350 lb 7in springs front, and the racing beat springs in rear. I will keep the HP blues in the rear, but run the Tokico BZ1069 adjustables in the front.
#46
Car is going to be used mainly for track events as well as for kidney massaging and tooth filling removal. I've driven it around with a set of TMC springs, Tokico Blues, and all poly bushings in the front end, and I'm ready to take it to the next level.
#47
Originally Posted by rbf41182gt
ok, what spring rates and sizes would you recommend for street use with occasional autocross and track use?
also, what shocks to use? can tokico hp's dampen springs of too heavy a poundage?
also, what shocks to use? can tokico hp's dampen springs of too heavy a poundage?
In my opinion front springs rates would be below 300 for street and above 300 for race. I do not believe the current replacment shocks for rx7's will dampen the higher spring rates. I still need to do some shock dyno testing to find a good line.
-billy
#49
Billy,
You are more than correct. I am planning to put in a set of Tokico BZ1069's at first, but then go in with a set of custom valved koni's later. I guess for now I might just buy some 300 lb springs as this is just over double over the TMC springs that are in there.
At 300 lbs, would you recommend 6 or 7 inch 2.5 ID springs? The car will be running on 14 inch wheels (track), and some 15 inchers (street).
Sergio
You are more than correct. I am planning to put in a set of Tokico BZ1069's at first, but then go in with a set of custom valved koni's later. I guess for now I might just buy some 300 lb springs as this is just over double over the TMC springs that are in there.
At 300 lbs, would you recommend 6 or 7 inch 2.5 ID springs? The car will be running on 14 inch wheels (track), and some 15 inchers (street).
Sergio