i've searched and searched....but i can't find out exactly what's the minimum i have to do to replace the bushings. do i just remove the top bolt, and then slide it down, or do i need to remove the entire thing meaning the 2 bolts that hold it to the frame, and the other end where it connects to the steering linkage? i just need to replace the bushings.

anyone have any tips or tricks?

 

i would remove the whole assembly. i also reccomend changing the whole assembly. i just changed mine and im soooo glad i changed the whole thing. it'll save you a ton of time and you will have piece of mind knowing the ball joint on the idler arm itself is in good shape.

 

Is there a way to do it with the arm still on the car?

 

Easy way to do it, on the car. Jack up the front tire on that side of the car, just enough to clear the ground. Pull out the cotter pin, and remove the nut. This will allow the idler arm to be removed from the frame sleeve without much trouble. replace the bushings, and apply liberal amount of wheel bearing grease. Reverse the disassembly to assemble.

 

If you decide to replace it with a new unit, go to www.rockauto.com and get the one made by Moog. This is the same "high performance" unit that Mazdatrix sells for 20.00 more.

 

i just did mine and i REALLY think it was the easiest thing i have ever done on this car.....
on my car i wasnt really replacing the bushing it was more of installing non existing bushings!!!!!!hahaahaha

 

Dang Rusty, got your moneys worth out of that one...lol

 

hey that was the orignal!!! i think u were the one that told me to replace those bushing because my steering was loose and the passenger side tire could be turned by hand without the steering wheel or driver wheel ever moving......

that old bushing was just all powder.....except for that little tiny piece

 

I'm gonna have to check those out, my steering is loose as..... well, its really loose, we'll leave it at that.

 

wow! i didn't have a chance to read the replies, but i did this, and it was real easy. i removed the cotter pin, then the nut, and without even jacking up the car or anything i was able to slip the thing out of its housing (without removing anything), the bushings were non existant as my exhaust melted them....

the only tough part was getting the bushing to slip into place. to do this, i had a buddy wiggle the steering wheel back and forth as i applied pressure, and it slipped into place. (i applied tons of bearing grease). then i threw the nut back on, installed the cotter pin, and presto!....steering is so nice and tight now. it made a world of difference.

i don't know why everyone says you have to remove the thing.

 

After your experience, I'm going to make a heat shield for around the idler arm since if you remember I removed the shrouding on the manifold a couple of weeks ago.

Where did you get the new bushings and what was the part number (if you have it handy)?

Then I'll have it for reference. Last week the local NAPA told me there was 2 flexible brake lines on the left rear and none on the right rear (I needed a right rear). That's what I deal with around here trying to get parts!

 

wow....i left the package at openshot's house. he will have the part number. there are 2 bushings. i got mine from mazda, but it came to about 18 bucks, not all that cheap really. (about 15 american)

 

i also plan on making something as a heat shield around the idler arm. i don't wanna cover up my soon to be new headers of course, and i don't think there is anything else that will be affected by the heat. i'd love to see what you come up with when you do. although im sure you will be posting.

 

Wiggling the steering wheel was the result of not having the tire lifted. Had it been lifted, you could have easily slipped it back into place. I got my bushing from a local parts store, that bought them at Mazda. Cost was about $14.

 

I got my bushings from a local autoparts store here in Vegas called Meyers Imports. $8 for the pair of them, and had them in the same day.

 

I ordered my bushings from rockauto (dirt cheap), but then I found out I had a brand new Moog idler arm and used that instead...

 

Nick, just a thought. Headers normally disapate one heck of a lot more heat than a manifold. I put my hand on my idler arm after the car was good and warm, and I wouldn't want to leave it there very long - and that's with a manifold. It can only be hotter with headers. I don't think I'd want to chance your new bushings if you put the header on and don't shield the idler right away....

 

hmmm....can anyone else back that up? i was thinking that the manifold would get hotter, since its so thick...but i guess im wrong. im sure there's tons of guys out there with RB headers, and no heat shield, and they don't have any issues

i really think my problem was a result of 2 things. a retarted ignition ( i have advanced it)....i don't have pulley marks so i can't use a gun, and the fact that my manifold gasket was fubar, allowing a good amount of exhaust straight past the manifold and onto the idler arm. but for what its worth, i would still like to make some cheap and easy macover out of aluminum or something for the idler arm.

so let me know what you come up with

 

I'm going to make one out of aluminum. I figure leaving it open at the top since hot air rises and I don't want to trap heat within the shield. It won't look as pretty like that, but if anybody has their nose that far down my engine compartment, there too f##%^ ing close to my car anyway!

I'll make a point to take measurements when I make it so I can send them to you. I would really like it to bolt right to the idler arm bolts, or I might just sheetmetal screw it to the frame rails.

I've had and built lots of hot cars over the many years, and I can tell you with absolute certainty that headers dissapate more heat to the engine compartment. Its simply cause they're thinner metal, so more exhaust heat radiats right through the metal. With the heat a rotary puts out, it must be even more than a built boinger. Notice how heavily built an RB header is. I'm guessing the rotary heat requires them to be that thick.

Best comparison I can give you is this - whats hotter the manifold on a normal car, or the header pipes off the engine on a motorcycle? Trust me - its the bike. I've had the burns on my face to show for it.

 

Nick, here you go, I made this tonight and it worked really well. The drawing is pretty bush, but the heat shield is pretty plain.

I used about 20 gauge aluminum and clamped the piece and a piece of steel to a table to get straight bend lines. I used the existing bolts on the idler arm to hold the shield on. The only hard part is placing the holes in the shield. I was lucky and got them right on, first try.

Sorry there is a mix of standard and metric measurements, but it happened that the one measurement came out exact in metric, so I just went with it. The 2.25" measurement could be reduced to 2". If I did another one, I would change it to that so it sits a little closer to the arm itself.

I also welded up some plate steel and made some brackets to hold some driving lights just in front of the grille. They attach to the existing bolts for the tow hook eyes. I'm old school and was taught to drive with full headlights on all the time (screw this daytime running light crap), and with the RX popups, I'm stuck using only parking lights. This will rectify that.

 

OMG!!!!! OMG!!!!! i just replaced the bushing on the idler arm and .............WOW!!!! what a ******* difference!!! The sterring is so tight now!!!! My god i love it!!! nad seriosuly this is a VERY easy job!! If you need to do it. DO IT!!! you can get this done in like 5 - 10 mins!

 

Been there, done that many time in the past 20 years. The same assembly is used on the early GLC, probably the RX-3 and 626, and all 1st gen RX-7s. I did mine last week in ten minutes, sitting on its wheels, just reached down from above and did the whole job.

I have replaced these numerous times, and I don't recall ever finding any remnants of the bushing. When I was driving home, I hit a small bump and heard a metal-to-metal noise, knew instantly what it was. I am somewhat surprised Mazda never bothered to fix this little annoyance. There are definitely suitable materials that would have much longer life.

I also built a heat box over my RB header to keep the heat away from the carb. Made of aluminum, it ensures most of the heat goes out under the car. That is more important than showing off your header. Anyone who knows Mazdas will know you have a header as soon as the engine starts!

 

Picking up my new Moog 9369 idler arm tomorrow. My car has all the previous listed symtoms. Will post the improvement.

 

I just ordered the idler arm for mine it should come with the bushing huh?

 

changing the bushing was no sweat. removing to put in the beefier adler arm is another story. i just did it last weekend and didnt have the right tools. the next day i came back with a pickle fork and a torch. a torch is a plus. i tried with a pickle fork and gear puller...no go. add a some heat to it, pop. everthing else was smooth sailin'.