1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

remove or not?

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Old 03-17-04, 08:13 PM
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Question remove or not?

i have found a oil leak coming from the front housing main pulley i know there is a o ring that is pbly bad but is there anyhthing else i should know about replacing this o-ring and can i do this with the motor still in? or is it best to pull motor?
Old 03-17-04, 09:54 PM
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20 views and no repies so many smart people out there is this a difficult job to do or does knowone no how or has never done this? or should i just save upand do a motor swap?
Old 03-17-04, 10:25 PM
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Never done it. Didn't know that oil could leak from around the main pulley.
Old 03-17-04, 10:37 PM
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It's a very common leak and requires a tear down - so yes, you will need to remove the motor
Old 03-17-04, 10:51 PM
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well that sux, but i expected it so i will just save up some money. is that rebuild video any good also is there a video for porting?
Old 03-17-04, 11:14 PM
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NO ENGINE REMOVAL REQUIRED!!!

Parts you'll need-

water pump gasket
front cover gasket
front cover E-shaft seal (the one that's leaking)

Here's how you do it.

1. Pull off all the accesories on the front of your engine, pulleys and all. You'll need an impact gun for the main bolt holding the main pulley on. It needs to be at least 350 ft. lbs. You may find that you need to pull your radiator just to get the impact gun in there... hope not, but if so, you probably needed a radiator flush, anyway, right?

2. if you didn't already remove your radiator, drain some fluid off... enough so that it's below the level of the water pump. Un-bolt your water pump, and pull it out. Wipe off all the coolant that has inevitably spilled.

3. Un-bolt your front cover from the front of the engine, and the oil pan. DO NOT FORGET THE OIL PAN BOLTS!!! Now work a putty knife or something in between the front cover and the engine to get the front cover off.

4. Inspect everything for damage. Especially note the shaft from the main pulley. Check to see if it has a groove in it. If it has a significant groove, you may want to replace it.

5. Take a punch or something and pop the seal for the E-shaft out. NOTE HOW IT WAS INSTALLED FIRST!!! INstall the new one the same way the old one was installed.

6. 1st put a clean rag in the oil pan to prevent stuff falling in. Then scrape off all the gasket material that is still stuck to the front of the engine. YOU MUST GET ALL OF IT OFF, OR IT WILL LEAK!! Especially ensure that you get everything off the Water pump and the front of the engine where the water pump goes.

7. Install gaskets and put back together in reverse order.

8. Change oil. (even with that rag in the oil pan, I'm sure you dropped some crap in there...)
Old 03-17-04, 11:14 PM
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You see why no one posted details before? That was a freakin novel....
Old 03-17-04, 11:21 PM
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that is great you fukin rock man, i wasnt positive but i was analyzing everything toady and i have to change the oil pan gasket anyway and while i am at it i might as well replace my pump but arent the o-rings on the e-shaft there are 2 of them. and i will have complete acces to any tool . would you say a 1 day job i think while i am there i will temp paint my front cover white or silver to see if leaks reapear. just a thought.thanks for the reasurance even though i will eventually rebuild it within 2 years.
Old 03-17-04, 11:23 PM
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by the way are going on the Mt St helens drive. i live in whidbey island NW
Old 03-18-04, 08:09 AM
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I stand corrected - I was always under the impression that you had to pull the motor to get this done. Good to know - thanks MR
Old 03-18-04, 09:27 AM
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I read a post a few days ago that mentioned something about making sure that before you loosen the main bolt make sure that the clutch is pushed in and keep it pushed in until everything is over. Maybe I read it wrong.
Old 03-18-04, 10:12 AM
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Originally posted by Junia
I read a post a few days ago that mentioned something about making sure that before you loosen the main bolt make sure that the clutch is pushed in and keep it pushed in until everything is over. Maybe I read it wrong.

Actually, it would make it easier if you had the clutch engaged, with it in gear and the e-brake on so your engine didn't turn over. On the other hand, I don't know what that would do to the clutch.

Originally posted by Fuel524
that is great you fukin rock man, i wasnt positive but i was analyzing everything toady and i have to change the oil pan gasket anyway and while i am at it i might as well replace my pump but arent the o-rings on the e-shaft there are 2 of them. and i will have complete acces to any tool . would you say a 1 day job i think while i am there i will temp paint my front cover white or silver to see if leaks reapear. just a thought.thanks for the reasurance even though i will eventually rebuild it within 2 years.
As far as the "O ring" It's not really an o-ring at all. It's a metal plug with a rubber seal. yes, there are 2 - one in front of the engine and one in back. If the rear one isn't leaking, don't worry about it.

I'm not going on the drive... that's a way's away from Spokane. I need to get under the hood of my truck now...
Old 03-18-04, 12:14 PM
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cool thanks i read that the clutch need to be engaged also, when i did a search for this problem but it wasnt as much help as yours ill try to knock it out asap
Old 03-18-04, 12:56 PM
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The thrust washer isn't as much of an issue if you're pulling the front cover anyway.
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