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Red 83 - the big challenge

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Old 06-17-03 | 08:40 PM
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Red 83 - the big challenge

OK, I got the worlds greatest project car - a Red 83 that smokes, can't pass CA smog ("Gross Polluter"), degenerate paint, a few rust spots and a 'kiss of death" motor, i.e., leaks from the sandwich. Oh yeah, it reaks of tobacco and the seats are shot.

Nevertheless, I think I can turn this sows ear into a silk purse cheaply and easily:

1-take out a couple dents with "Ding King" ( best $20 I ever spent),

2-fill some dings with Bondo (in spite of my preference for lead - oh hell, maybe I'll lead it),

3-have it painted for $200-$300 at Earl Sheib or Miracle (worked good for my 90 Sable),

4-dump 16oz of MMO into the tank,

5-dump 16oz of MMO into the crankcase,

6-adjust the timing,

7-(maybe) install the new Bonerz Cat I have.

8-replace seats with FC seats from junkyard,

9-JB weld the oil leaks

I think this will get me past smog and make it the most desirable car on the block!

B
Old 06-17-03 | 08:59 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
if your airpump acv and main cat all work it should pass no problem

mike
Old 06-17-03 | 09:04 PM
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Or throw a rollcage in it and youd have yourself a great rally car!
Old 06-18-03 | 05:23 PM
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Started the body work.

Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.

B
Old 06-19-03 | 12:55 AM
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Anybody know the diameter of
Old 06-19-03 | 12:56 AM
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Anybody know the diameter of the eshaft pulley?

B
Old 06-19-03 | 01:26 AM
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I would of pounded out the dents. harder i guess
Old 06-19-03 | 04:41 PM
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Originally posted by bliffle
Started the body work.

Gotta pass the smog to transfer the title. The timing mark is 90 or 180 degrees off because the water pump was changed, so I figure to make a template to fit around the Eshaft pulley, then mark off 90 and 180 and set the distrubutor rotor at #1 leading and file a new timing mark.

B
I bought my REPU with no smog equipment installed (it was in a cardboard box) and the seller explicitly said he can't smog it and will only sell it w/o smog. Transferred title just fine. But she can't be registered or driven w/o smog which is fine, restoring her in the driveway and have a smog connection . . . .

Mabye the front pulley was installed upside down?
Old 06-19-03 | 05:37 PM
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Hmmm interesting. I found a lot of dings on the driver side so I resorted to Bondo, which is a lot faster.

I rotated the eshaft pulley and can't see the timing mark anywhere. I figure if I could see it I could sync with one of the 4 plugs, like a four piston engine (except for VW which has different timing on the hot cylinder).

Think I'll just blind adjust the timing, and maybe get an EG meter.

I don't want to spend to much time (I expect to spend minimum $$$ or none) since the transmission is whining. I just want tpo make it look good and save it from the crusher.

B
Old 06-28-03 | 12:24 PM
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I found the tiny little timing mark right where it should be! Added some paint daubs. Timed the engine a smidgin and it runs like a champ. Think I'll pop in a new ACV valve before I attempt a smog check monday.

B
Old 06-29-03 | 10:47 AM
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Changing the ACV valve looks tough. Any advice?

B
Old 06-29-03 | 08:12 PM
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I Gunked the engine and found that it has the common leak up front, near the "12A" stamping. I understand some guys have fixed that with JB Weld.

B
Old 06-29-03 | 09:02 PM
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Originally posted by bliffle
Changing the ACV valve looks tough. Any advice?

B
It's like three bolts and a pair of hoses, real simple. If you need a spare, I have several extras I don't want.
Old 06-30-03 | 09:58 PM
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Got some nice red seats at the PnP today - took a lot of cleaning up, though. Car is starting to look good. Next I mask off a quarter and shoot it.

B
Old 07-04-03 | 10:48 PM
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That damn cheap paint from Home Depot doesn't rub out very well. Doesn't get glossy even with 600 wet paper. So I figure I gotta either clearcoat or find a new topcoat.

Any suggestions?

B
Old 07-05-03 | 12:56 PM
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Originally posted by bliffle

I Gunked the engine and found that it has the common leak up front, near the "12A" stamping. I understand some guys have fixed that with JB Weld.

B
Nope, won't work...do a search with "dowel" "pin" and "leak"....the solution is not easy...
Old 07-05-03 | 01:36 PM
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why wont it work?


get too hot?


why cant he just squeeze a mix plater of jb quick weld into that hole? after degreasing of course.....




Laterz
Old 07-06-03 | 12:49 AM
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I think JB weld is worth a try, so I gotta take off the distributor to access everything well.

Meanwhile, the paint is going on and it rubs out smooth, but no gloss. Tried clearcoat, but it makes little curdles. So I'll just overpaint with something different.

B

B
Old 07-06-03 | 06:35 PM
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If you're going to try that, then you need to JB Weld ALL ALONG THE PARTING LINE WHERE YOU SEE THE ALUMINUM AND IRON HOUSINGS MEET or it will simply go where you didn't seal with JB Weld and leak from that spot. I repeat, the oil will "creep" to ANYWHERE on that parting line you don't have JB Weld and leak there...Have fun...
Old 07-07-03 | 12:28 AM
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leave the kiss of death alone rex will run for over 50000 w/it.(as long as ther is no other problems w/it)
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