Rxcalibur

The previous owner of my Rx7 had the rear hatch tinted. I guess that when the tint was installed, the wiring for the rear defrost was disconnected along with the wiring hook up for the rear wiper. The tint was installed strip by strip, leaving some space between each heating filament, instead of just one sheet of tint. Even so I understand that with the tint I way not be able to use the rear defroster but I still could use the rear wiper.

How should I go about reconnecting the wiring to the glass ? I have thought about sodering or tinning to reconnect the wiring( metal strip) to the strip on the hatch glass. However I don't want to risk cracking or breaking the glass by applying excessive heat to the glass surface. Is there any other way to reconnect this hook up to the glass?

Rotary Weasel

I too had the same problem...the previous owner had somehow broken every tab off the rear hatch glass..in vain I attempted to resoder them with the glass on..not easy upside down lol..no success...so I did the next best thing..went to the recyclers and got a hatch glass with the tabs still intact and wiper..doing this would solve your defroster issue..then you could get it tinted correctly..I paid $45 for mine

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I've resoldered mine back to the glass a couple of times. It can be done with the glass opened all the way up, but it is tricky getting a good solder on it. First, you need to clean off the area where the tab attaches to the glass so that its fairly clean of any previous solder. I use real fine steelwool to do this. Be careful that you don't remove the copper plating on the glass itself. Then I took the tab, heated it up with the solder iron and applied solder to it to get it tinned real good and I left a bit of solder on the bottom of the attachment point for the tab. I then take the tab, hold it to the window with the solder gun ( this part requires a very steady hand ) and let it heat up until I see the solder run. At this point the trick is to remove the solder iron from the tab without dislodging the now soldered tab from the glass. It can be done but it is PITA when your doing it, because it never seems to work the first time. Plus it gets knocked off pretty easily. Good luck.

Rxcalibur

Thanks for the advice. Another option would be to use conductive epoxy. I found a silver epoxy kit , for $13, that is made for reconnecting rear defroster tabs. This method will of reconnecting the defroster tab would not be as strong as resoldering the tab, but it would eliminate any chance of damaging the hatch glass.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Where did you find this epoxy ? Whats it called ? We need details:-) I think I might try that instead this next time around.

Rxcalibur

I read an article about the silver conductive epoxy and then I called Autozone and they had a kit for $13. I'm sure that other auto parts stores have it. Here's a link that has a kit that can be purchased online. http://www.frostfighter.com/

Rxcalibur

Below are some pictures of the conductive epoxy kit that I found for repairing damaged defogger grids and detached tabs. These kits can be found at autoparts stores like autozone, napa, pep boys, parts usa, etc., for around $13.

Picture # 2 :
Top
- sand paper to sand tab surface and surface connector on hatch glass
- conductive epoxy
- grid line repair template
Bottom
- Alcohol prep pads for cleaning all connector surfaces
- Activator (added to conductive epoxy)
- Quick grid repair compound and brush for grid lines

I'll let everyone know how the kit works as far as repairing the tab. I'm just waiting for for a calm non windy day to do the repair. Its very important that the tab not to detach while the epoxy cures.