peejay

Oh mine pulled hard from down low too... I know I say it a lot but it would go 30-50 in 6-7 seconds in 5th gear - that's an average of over 100lb-ft between 1500 and 2500. And then it would just keep pulling harder... and harder... and WHAM at 5500. And then torque would fall off after that because of the crappy stock carb restricting airflow But it was still "fun" to drive in the rain in 3rd gear, at full throttle, and the revs swing past the magic number and the car gets sideways. Sideways not the best way to drive at ~70mph in a car with an open diff and worn out shocks! I never had the guts to see if it would break them loose in 4th gear. 1st and 2nd - there simply was no flooring it at any speed if the road wasn't dry.

MIKE-P-29

If I want excess of 200hp, I need a 13B street ported with a turbo ... I want something that cooks ***. I wanna try and get it for like 3000 or so. Or least thats my budget...

peejay

You can do it either way! 200hp with a 13B street port or 13B turbo, don't need both for only 200hp

PaulFitzwarryne

We seem to have lost track of the Thread, Mike wants to beat Mustangs and asked for advice on porting. Lets get back to the target.

First pick you Mustang! No one should be interested in beating a 60s Mustang, its like running against school girls. There is data for the performance of 30 different Mustangs on the Forum Sticky. You can objectively work out the cheapest way to beat each one.

Take as your target the latest Mustang, the Cobra version, which reaches 60mph in 4.8 seconda and has a 1/4 time of 13.5. A normal Gen 1 will reqire 310-325hp to beat it. The next question is what modifications do you want to achieve this and be streetable. The simple answer is a turbo and ported with all the other goodies such as headers, exhaust system, carbs. brakes and ignition. Lets have a $5,000 budget to play with, or have a fast girl friend with a tweaked R2.

On a basic note. if your budget is not thar high or the local Mustangs are due for retirement then we can easily settle the porting question. A steet port witheverything else stock will have little impact. Porting is like the conductor in a band, no matter how good he is, if the misicans are poor you will still get lousy music. Start with a good header, add an upgraded carb and you are getting around 140hp without trouble. Now add an average street port and upgraded fuel system, and you will get 180hp. Thus a 40hp increase is possible from adding a street port but only if the potential from other components is there. If the engine is being rebuilt go for the streetport plus the other modifications to get real value.

Having a Bridgeport is the next step in the progression. Again you will need to further upgrade the basic components for example a Webber insteas of a modified Nikki. Ignition becomes of a problem so that will need upgrading. Unless all this is done the car will not be streetworthy, you will need an expert such as Paul Yaw to set it up right. I guess some 90% of bridgeported cars never see the road. Done right you could expect a marginally streetworthy 225+ hp and the joy of beating your average Mustang.

madaz07

my car has a extend bridge port it idles at about 1800rpm it **** loads more torque than my street port ever had, im only using a moded nikki and carter pump. but i havent seen it full potential yet as my ignition is playing up. the power starts to come on at about 4,000. you lose a tiny bit of low end but when it hits about 3,000 it start to come on then.

REVHED

Madaz, you really need to get a Weber for that thing if you wanna get the most out of the bridge-porting.

madaz07

it will come soon in few months when ive finished buying other stuff tyres, exhaust system. BTW i got quoted $950 from cleavland exhausts and $720 from Rob Bliss witch one do you think isthe better of the two.

REVHED

I'd probably go with the Rob Bliss system.

MIKE-P-29

Thanks Paul and others, so it looks like if I want it to be really street worthy. I need to stay away from bridgeporting. DAMN why does this have to be so hard? Also I said excess of 200hp, not just 200hp. I could eventually go $5k, but not all at once $3k is my budget now. But looks like if I wanted upper 200's it aint gonna happen with a 12A...

What about street porting, modified carb or diff. carb, headers, and a supercharger on a 12A? Wonder the cost on that? being I got the headers and such?

Probally just be cheaper to get a 13B turbo block rebuilt street port it, put on a nice turbo, intercooler, and BOV etc?

The Mustangs Im refering to are the average joe GT's. Im sick of these little ******* saying rice burner rotary piece of ****. etc etc. I got the $$$'s to do this right just gonna take some time, and I need a plan...

REVHED

Ok, having been around bridge-ported (and greater) rotaries for a long time and having driven quite a number of them myself, I believe they are definately streetable and obviously go a lot harder than your average street-port... when setup correctly. There's no point in wasting your time with anything less than a Weber and the exhaust has to be freeflowing which usually means LOUD. Also, if you spend alot of time in stop and go traffic then they can be little annoying and I probably woundn't recommend getting one.

The main reason I went with an extend-port is because I couldn't afford a bridge-port at the time but now I wish I would have waited just a little longer because the extra power available from a street-port gets old pretty quickly. Just my personal experience.

PaulFitzwarryne

If I was planning it then my progress would be

1. get the streetport done while the engine is out
2. add a Webber and flowed manifold, plus fuel pump
3. build a RB type streetport exhaust system with twin presilencers
4. add a new ignition system, perhaps on the leading only
5. get rid of anything surplus; stereo, air pump, cruise control, air
conditioning even the window motors if you are keen,
6. upgrade the clutch- see Matradix explanation on their web site
7 check out your tyres and brakes.
8 think about new coils and lowering, how is the suspension? If its a
straight line drag its unimportant but for anything else its a priority.

You should still be within budget, have a streetworthy car, and beating the local GTs . The engine will have 225+hp

Next stage when the budget allowswould be to add the turbo, possibly go higher in the carb specifications or even think of going EFI.
At that stage you will be up with the Cobras.

One of the locals has gone down that route, the only disadvantage is fuel consumption as he gets less than 150 miles per large tank from normal driving.

People will argue over which pump, carb, and ignition to get, but its your own choice depending on what is available locally. Even the expets would have a difficulty in saying what you have got in a blindfold test but as you say they could talk all day!

MIKE-P-29

Fuel consumption or emissions wont be a major consideration. However I want it kinda sleeperish, if thats a word... LOL Of course loud is good, sorta as long as I dont get in trouble with it, of course the local GT's and Harleys are quite loud here....

I just talked with Skip at Revolution Rotray and he acted like turbos that work and work well on a 12A are practically non existent. Probally the least money will be what you said, but I might just lean toward a supercharger instead of turbo. Get the whole kit in one swoop, instead of this piece and that piece. I already have a perfect core for rebuild thats a 12A, I just dont wanna spend this money and go that shitty, now lets try this. Just like car audio, if you want the best buy the best... Besides I can slap my biz name on the side of the car and write this stuff off as a biz expense. LOL

I remember riding years ago in a friends new 91 T2 and all he did was a RB adjustable waste gate and full exhaust and that car was FREAKING fast...

Ok looks like streetport with full twin exhaust, modified nikki or weber for now, and a upgraded fuel pump. Hope thats gonna do it... That was the figure I was given with that stuff, around 200-220hp... Thanx

PaulFitzwarryne

Mike, am a bit confused over what vehicle we are talking about. In another thread you give it as a 1988 convertible weighing 3300 lbs. Advice on porting a Gen 2 car and its cost should go to tjhe Gen 2 forum.

With such a heavy car is it worthwhile bothering to look for performance, its 500 lbs overwwight to start with.

Which car are you thinking of changing from a stock 12a to a 13b turbo?

peejay

Cripes, 3300 pounds! That is literally 50% more than my '80 weighed (2210lb to be exact). That's 50% more strain on the engine...

MY advice is to ditch the 'vert and get something that weighs under, you know, 2600lb.

MIKE-P-29

Sorry guys, I have 3 Rx-7's The one we are refering to here is a 85 GSL. The motor in the vert is fine, Im not gonna do any upgrades to it, for the fact that it is heavy as you mentioned. I beleive stock the 85 weighs 2400? Well its gonan way less than that when I get done. there wont be a big stereo in it or other unneccessary items.