Okay, I tried tapping the carburetor with a hammer and I had no luck so I pulled the air horn off again to check the floats. I realized that the float going to the same side I was having problems with looked a little bent. I don't know if you can tell very well in this picture since it is all sideways anyway but it is in this picture here

The float closest to my hand looked a little bent to me.
I also snapped a few more pictures of the level of the fuel just to make sure it is at the correct level inside the float bowls


They are both even now and I decided I will try and bend that float back a little. When I took the plugs out to deflood it, I only took 1 leading and 1 trailing out. The trailing plug had so much gas around it and in it when I turned the key gas seemed to of pour out of the socket and onto the spark plugs. And I also put my hand inside the place you screw the plugs into and it was just completely soaked in gas. I turned the key 3 times for 10 seconds each, put the plugs in and tried to fire it up. It took a while but it started up backfired horribly bad then died. After that I ran out of day light to work with, but with a flash light I looked into the carburetor and saw that there isn't anymore gas leaking so now I am debating weather or not to just buy new floats or not. And again in the morning I will probably be out there undoing all 4 plugs and trying to deflood it then fire it up and see what happens.

 

After you dry the plugs you might want to polish up the electrodes with a wire brush to get the carbon deposits off. I also use a probe to CAREFULLY go down along the porcelain insulator and remove the carbon that gets lodged down there.

To deflood the engine I remove all the plugs, then crank for 10-15 seconds, watching for the gas/oil mist to be expelled from the spark plug holes. This is a bit tricky, you need a long right arm and standing outside the car you need to engage the key and peer over the hood to see the mist.

Usually there's a lot at first. I wait about 10 seconds to let the starter and battery recover, then repeat the 10-15 second crank, again observing the mist.

This procedure - crank and wait, crank and wait - usually needs to be repeated 5 or 10 times or even more before the gas mist is reduced to barely noticeable.

Then I pour a cap full of automatic transmission oil or MMO into each primary and spin 10-15 seconds without the plugs in to condition the apex seals.

Then I replace the plugs and engage the engine WITHOUT GAS OR CHOKE until it starts to fire. If it doesn't start on its own I'll then give it just a touch of gas to help get it going. You need to do this carefully however or you will reflood it.

To set the float level you need to hold the top of the carb horizontal to the ground and let them hang freely. Try this, take a pic and show us. Then use the adjustment procedure described in the carb rebuild kit or repair manual to set the float height. This adjustment usually doesn't need to be done unless the floats have been damaged or improperly adjusted.

I have some spare floats if you need them, just let me know.

 

I am not too sure if the float level is really in good shape or not. The gas is half way up on the glass and not too positive also if these floats are any good lol. One I got from a junk yard the other I had in the car when it sat for over a year. With 2 carburetors and 2 junk yard floats I just found a bucket of water put them all in there and whichever 2 floated straight I used. So far though since I have replaced them the car did not flood until now after I seemed to of bent that one float. And once I bent it back the gas quit pouring into the carburetor after it shut off. It flooded the car so bad that mist you're talking about just turned more into smoke clouds lol

 

You're supposed to check the fuel level by looking THROUGH the windows, with the carb fully assembled & fuel pump running.

If the fuel level is halfway up when the floats are no longer in the bowls, what do you suppose happens to the level once the floats sit down in the gas like a fat man in a bathtub?

 

Ah I get your point lol. So then the bowls are probably full with the jets being in them, and it may be time to invest in a mirror so I can see into the glass.

 

Yep; front one you can usually see directly with a flashlight, but the back one normally needs a mirror and a light, considering the way it's tucked in back there.

Looks like this, done proper:


That level is a bit too high, but still functional. Ideal is where the fuel level matches those notches to either side of the window.

 

Nice pic DD, I'm lucky if I can just see that darn thing in the mirror, much less get a picture of it. Carb's looking pretty good too!

Bahlorm, if you've got a girl friend you can borrow her make up mirror. They just love it when you do that.

 

Ooooh, yeah those floats look pretty bent up. If you can't get them back to where they're supposed to be you might be better off replacing them.

 

Lol, I think she would kill me Ray. If you do happen to have some extra floats that are in good shape I could use them. I don't know if I would trust myself with trying to make adjustments to the float levels and also with it being bent up and from a junk yard they are probably not in very great shape lol. I have not had a chance to work on it today, but tomorrow I get the day off and after doing a few things then I will have the rest of the day to work on it.

 

It looks like at least one of your mounting pins is also bent so I'll send those and the floats. This will take a day or two because I have to get them from a friend who has borrowed my Nikki parts box for a rebuild he's doing.

In the mean time pick your best floats and pins and try to bend them back as straight as you can.

 

Alright Ray thanks. Today I will try to get this car started after I finish some legal things. That is if I don't get rained out.

 

Okay, I got the car fired up today and I learned a few things. One it sounds like complete **** until it is revved up. Also the float level inside of one bowl is just barely at the bottom notch, and the other one is the complete opposite. And I have yet another video with the car idling at 900 rpm and the sound this thing makes during idle. It sounds like it just puts along and it backfires a lot. There is also a small gas leak around the fuel filter, every once in a while I will see 1 or 2 drops coming from it. I don't know if that would cause this much of a problem or not, I do know that will be fixed very soon either way.
And again here is another low quality crappy video from my phone.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bSTh_XA04w
I am beginning to think it may be time for my coil's to be replaced. It does seem like it is missing a lot, and many people on here have said it does. And both the coils definitely didn't look very new. If there is anything ignition wise going bad then I would guess it would be those. So if you all still think it is an ignition problem then I will be replacing them. If you all still think its something to do with the carburetor then I guess I will continue working on that until it is finally done right lol.

 

I think Mark had it pegged, you don't have leading ignition.

 

I must have a little at least, there is spark coming from all plugs. But it may be weak and I will start working on the ignition then. Unfortunately now I have a lawyer to pay and a divorce to go through. So this car will have to be put on hold, and I have to hope I don't have to get rid of it in this process. But anyway, I will be working on this car on everything that I can do that I don't have to replace with new items. When I am able to though then I will post my results, but it seems that if its an ignition problem it may be a while lol.

 

Yeah, RX-7's have been known to do that. (I kid, I kid... just trying to lighten your mood).

When you do get back to it, make sure you get coils rated to be run on their side - - most are designed to be mounted vertically.

 

On their side? The ones I have right now are mounted horizontally.

 

Um, let me inject a bit of logic here. You just stated a very obvious problem, but instead of addressing it you have decided to move on to the ignition system? One float bowl empty, the other over-filled? You need to fix that before it will ever run right. I'm not saying you don't have ignition issues, but even if you get those fixed you won't be able to tell with the carb acting the way it is.

And for the ignition system, just find a used 2nd gen leading coil pack. Move the wires from the stock leading coil over, run the plug wires directly from the coils to the plugs, and you're done. Dirt cheap (20 bucks?) and more power, better starting...

 

One of the float bowls aren't empty it is just a little low while the other is just a little high. I know that will need to be fixed either way but I don't think that is what is causing this problem. But of course I could easily be wrong.

 

Horizontally = "on their side."

Many aftermarket coils (like the normal Accels most parts places stock) will leak oil & fail if mounted horizontally.

To use the stock coil mounts, you need coils rated to operate horizontally. Accels are available for this - - they call them 'harsh duty', I think- - but they are not normally stocked in the store.

Or you can mod as Kentetsu described.

 

Bahlorm can you take some good quality photos of your entire engine bay focusing on the set up and connections for the carb and for the ignition system, including the coils and igniters?

From your earlier videos and pics it looks like things have been changed around quite a bit ("modded" as they say) which creates lots of opportunities for things to not be connected correctly, vacuum leaks and/or ignition issues.

Maybe we can look these over and spot some potential problem areas.

 

Okay luckly my GF got a new camera I may have to steal and I will snap as many photos as I can whenever I get the chance. Which may be anytime from tomorrow to this weekend.