jcfrx7

What parts do I need to change over the rear end from a GSL to a GS?

onepointone

let me get this straight.. your going from rear disk/lsd rear end, to a drum, open diff rear? why?

anyways, you will need the rear, and the e-brake cable. people say you need the master cylinder, but your stock one will do. it is recommended you get the other one though. everythign else is a direct bolt in affair, all the drag links, the drive shaft, brake lines bolt right up. same thing with a -se suspension swap.

if you search im sure youll find PLENTY of info on this.

Rx7carl

You also need the hose that goes from the axle housing to the body. They are different on drum and disc cars.

jcfrx7

No,no,no Iam doing disk on my GS

851stgen12a

Ok your going from GS to GSL.... all right that makes a bit more sense.

You will need the E-brake cables.
You dont HAVE to swap the master cylander, but I am ultimatly going to as soon as I have the money.
The GS master cylander is a little more biased to the rear. can make it a little squirly coming down from high speeds.
Other than that should bolt in pretty damn easy.
Took me about 3 hours.

onepointone

i had the gs master on mine for a while with the disk rear, and i never had any problems. it eventually blew out though, so i replaced it with a brand new gsl master cylinder. i didnt notice much difference actually.

jcfrx7

How about that valve next to the master cylinder does that change.

onepointone

proportioning valve, no, its the same (from what i understand).

oni-dori

i thought the proportioning valve allows the rear brakes to actuate before the fronts on front disc/rear drum cars. if so then all disc wouldnt need one. but there should be a pressure differential and/or metering valve present on all disc brake cars.

jcfrx7

I thought the same

oni-dori

in any case, i think it would be a good idea to change everything in the drivetrain and brake system eventually. that way you know everything works together like they should.

cheapie

Get this, the car I bought originally came with a disc rear. The guy I got it from had changed it to a drum rear. I drove it all summer, and everything was fine. Now I have changed it back to disc. It's all fine, and it works great. You do need to remember the hose, and the hand brake cables but everything else is an even swap.

I do notice that the axles for the disc rear are much smaller. but that also might be the difference between an '83 and an '85.

By the way, jcfrx7, you said it right the first time. You said you were moving the rear from a GSL to a GS.

jcfrx7

Well I have all the parts ... This weekend I will put it on my 85' GS 13B (sleeper).... thanx for the reply ....it helped me alot.

Rx7r4c3r

I didnt change my master and ended up in the ditch. After doing the swap I just drove with the old master/balancer. Seems like the back brakes brake a little too much. One winter night too fast fast on a curve tapped the brakes before entering the curve and it locked up my rear end and I roled the car into the ditch. It locked up quick and there was no time to do anything. If I had a scanner I would post some pics of the car to show you what happens. It may be im just a bad driver, but I think the master cylinder/balancer are important. Im puting the gsl rear in my new 7 and I am definately puting a gsl master in. Im not to sure if you must change the booster aswel.

cheapie

My case doesn't prove you wrong because my car is a GSL that always had the GSL master and booster. My case proves that the GSL works fine for the drum rear. I would take your advice, Rx7r4c3r.

onepointone

when i had my gs master cylinder on the car, i went through MANY autox's, MANY races on twisty roads, and lots of spirited driving, and i never once had my rear kick out under braking. but just to be safe, i would switch them out, im just telling you from my experience, i never had a problem like that.

also, you shouldnt be on the brakes to hard in the middle of a turn, if you are, you came into the turn way to fast. you should brake before the turn.