RB Road/Race Header Prep Questions
#1
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RB Road/Race Header Prep Questions
I'm biding my time while I pick the young suitor to entrust my little girl (someone to paint the car) and have my RB Road/Race exhaust out of the car. Basically, it's the version with two 8-foot primaries that collect just ahead of the muffler, with silencers inline. I was reading about guys who wrap their headers, but I've got a LOT of pipe to contend with, and don't think that my exhaust will see the 500-deg temps needed to cure the header wrap paint after 8-feet of radiating. Should I have them ceramic coated, nickel coated (like new RB headers) or stick with wrapping? On a related note, the muffler on the car does nothing to quiet things down - is there any muffler that would provide a softer tone than others? I'm also looking to add 02 sensors to each of the primaries since I'm on an IDA carb (one rotor can run lean while the other's rich) and the junction doesn't happen 'til I get to the axle. What nut do I need to find to weld onto the header for these two bungs?
In Summary :
1.) What's a good way to treat the headers; wrap, ceramic, nickel, other....
2.) What would it cost to do what you think (header wrap is $80, and I'd need two packs)
3.) Mellow(er) muffler??? maybe???
4.) 02 Sensor Bung Thread
In Summary :
1.) What's a good way to treat the headers; wrap, ceramic, nickel, other....
2.) What would it cost to do what you think (header wrap is $80, and I'd need two packs)
3.) Mellow(er) muffler??? maybe???
4.) 02 Sensor Bung Thread
#2
Ceramic coat the headers only, make sure it's done inside and out, leave the rest of the system as it is.
Header wrap can lead to early metal failure on a rotory. I wouldn't use it for the long term.
Check with your local exhaust shop, they may have the plugs to go in the bungs. If you are buying a wideband, I know the Innovative one comes with a bung and plug and you can order more from them.
For the muffler, i can't help with that one.
Header wrap can lead to early metal failure on a rotory. I wouldn't use it for the long term.
Check with your local exhaust shop, they may have the plugs to go in the bungs. If you are buying a wideband, I know the Innovative one comes with a bung and plug and you can order more from them.
For the muffler, i can't help with that one.
#3
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Yeah, I've heard bad things about header wrap. If your going to do anything with an exhaust system that costs that much to replace, I'd only do it right. Ceremic coat it if you can afford it, and it should last forever...
#4
No distributor? No thanks
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Well, the header itself is the normal 3-foot length, but there's then a 5-foot segment that bolts up behind it that carries the silencers. Should I treat the whole system up to the collector, or jusr the first 3 or first 8 feet? Any idea what mufflers are quieter than others (RB Power Pulse isn't an option)? Also, is ceramic coating usually something that can be done locally, or is a mail-away thing? Any idea what it costs?
Last edited by Crit; 05-15-05 at 11:45 PM.
#6
No distributor? No thanks
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Yeah..... there are no heat shields and I don't know where I'd find any. I'll have to get some 16-ga aluminum sheet and get to shearin, I guess.
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#8
magnaflow 4" round x 18" long with 2.25 in/out for presilencers ($70 or so ea.) on each primary (they have a 2.5" inch core). I have a Thermal R&D muffler in back, sounds nice and deep and still muffling after 2 yrs. magnaflows in back are also good.
#9
magnaflow 4" round x 18" long with 2.25 in/out for presilencers ($70 or so ea.) on each primary (they have a 2.5" inch core). I have a Thermal R&D muffler in back, sounds nice and deep and still muffling after 2 yrs. magnaflows in back are also good. Aussies use rotoflo's (available online I believe but kinda pricey)
Last edited by Jaime Enriquez; 05-16-05 at 12:31 AM.
#10
No distributor? No thanks
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Is ceramic coating common enough that it can be done locally? Any idea what it costs to coat one rotary header? Any recommendations on who to go with?
#11
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Crit - Did not hear from you on Thursday.
On your questions - Header wrap will kill the headers in about a month at the most. You need to coat them. Call Miller's Powder Coat in Lilburn. Ask for Billy Jr. - tell em I sent you.
Muffler - I have a little secret, call me before you buy anything.
On the bung, I can make some if you can not find any. I can weld them on as well - if you don't have welder access anymore.
-billy
On your questions - Header wrap will kill the headers in about a month at the most. You need to coat them. Call Miller's Powder Coat in Lilburn. Ask for Billy Jr. - tell em I sent you.
Muffler - I have a little secret, call me before you buy anything.
On the bung, I can make some if you can not find any. I can weld them on as well - if you don't have welder access anymore.
-billy
#12
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Thanks. I was gonna add 2 O2 sensors with a double-throw toggle switch so I can monitor one or the other with the A/F Meter. I'll check on the powder coating. I'm looking to yank the engine next weekend, but not ONE SINGLE shop has called me back, and I've tried all of them three times. Sorry for not getting back, but there just hasn't been anything to tell. If I coat the primary header, what should I do with the "midpipe" that has the parallel silencers?
#13
I think you'll find powdercoat will just bake off a header. I powdercoated the REST of my system, but my coating guy refused to do my RB header. Jet-Hot coatings (.com) does exhaust headers, but they told me the standard ceramic (1300 degrees) won't stick long to a rotary and recommended the black coating (2000 degrees). About $150 plus shipping. I've heard the shiney coating ne RB headers come with doesn't last long either...
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
Stu Aull
80 GS
Alaska
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