RB Holley question?
02-21-08, 10:02 AM
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RB Holley question?
I have the RB 12a Holley SP setup w/ 465 holley.
Where have people hooked up the PCV vent to? Mine has one vac at the meetering block for the dist. And one at the intake for the brakes, that is all.
I do not want to T into the brake vac line because of oil chances.
I thought I could tap into the front intake runner or put a carb spacer with a tapped vac. What does everyone think?
Where have people hooked up the PCV vent to? Mine has one vac at the meetering block for the dist. And one at the intake for the brakes, that is all.
I do not want to T into the brake vac line because of oil chances.
I thought I could tap into the front intake runner or put a carb spacer with a tapped vac. What does everyone think?
02-21-08, 10:18 AM
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I read through a number of older posts and most said not to T into brake vac line because oil can get up the line. Thinking about it, how can oil travel up a 3 foot line when it is being pulled the other way.
02-21-08, 12:24 PM
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its the internet! its POSSIBLE that oil could get up there, but what are the chances?
02-21-08, 08:07 PM
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pcv line
Run the pcv line to the underside of your air-cleaner. This is what racing beat recomends. If you email racing beat they will send you the installation instructions. Or if you send me your email address I can forward you a copy I recived from racing beat.
02-22-08, 07:55 AM
#7
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You do NOT want to have oil going to your brake booster.
First of all, oil vaporizes like any other fluid when it becomes hot enough. The diaphragm on a brake booster was not designed to have hot oil vapor on the other side of it.
You do not need that much vacuum to purge the crank of water vapor, and water vapor is all you are trying to let out. The original (carbed) PCV line goes to the air horn on the carb, and is subject to only the slightest amount of vacuum. Tying it into a high vacuum line will draw oil vapor up along with the water vapor, and eventually it could get plugged with emulsified sludge if the circuit you're drawing from is too small in diameter.
First of all, oil vaporizes like any other fluid when it becomes hot enough. The diaphragm on a brake booster was not designed to have hot oil vapor on the other side of it.
You do not need that much vacuum to purge the crank of water vapor, and water vapor is all you are trying to let out. The original (carbed) PCV line goes to the air horn on the carb, and is subject to only the slightest amount of vacuum. Tying it into a high vacuum line will draw oil vapor up along with the water vapor, and eventually it could get plugged with emulsified sludge if the circuit you're drawing from is too small in diameter.
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03-28-08, 11:29 AM
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I've had this hooked up like RB recomends through the air cleaner and now I am getting lung butter.
I'm thinking of putting a T into the line for the brake booster. I thought I could put a second PCV valve after the T on the brake booster side so I don't get oil vapers in the booster.
Is this a good idea? Will I loose too much vacuum in the booster and cause the power brakes to not work right?
I'm thinking of putting a T into the line for the brake booster. I thought I could put a second PCV valve after the T on the brake booster side so I don't get oil vapers in the booster.
Is this a good idea? Will I loose too much vacuum in the booster and cause the power brakes to not work right?
03-29-08, 12:59 PM
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lung butter
Do not tee into the vac line going to the brakes. The "lung butter" you are seeing may simply be a matter of too much idling or not getting up to temperature. What temperature are you running at? Leave it the way it is connected take it for a good run get it up to temperature and see if you have any "lung butter". You need to get it up to temerature to burn off any condensation.
03-31-08, 09:45 AM
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The lung butter stays when it gets to temp. When it is warm the guage gets to about 1/4 the way but the car seems to be warmed up. I think part of the problem is the guage itself.
The motor is new, has about 775 miles on it. I will give the car its first oil change tomorrow and I will see if it goes away.
The motor is new, has about 775 miles on it. I will give the car its first oil change tomorrow and I will see if it goes away.
04-03-08, 09:18 PM
#15
no problems with the booster. the pcv allows a very small amount of vacuum to pass thu. with it in the line, u can barely feel it with ur finger. and since it's drawing towards the intake and not the booster, nothing gets to the booster. it's just drawing vapor from the "crank case" so to speak, not any real liquids.
05-06-08, 10:16 PM
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This is a Temp Fix for Lung Mustard RB Holley 465 SetUps.
And used by many Aftermarket Carb Experts? In the 12A-13B Fuel Delivery Delema
It's called a Catch Can...
I used it in My Idea for awhile until I found a Better Way.
There where many Posters here over the Years that made it go Away for Ever.
It's called do a search under LUNG MUSTARD or Lung Butter!!!
I know it hurts, (I Have Been There)......Ouch
On a better note {As soon I find the Best Way To Make It Work} By Me
Give me a couple of days to find it and I will Post It.
7 Engines later and it always worked.
Stop Barfing Down The Oil Spout
sgieldon
steve
And used by many Aftermarket Carb Experts? In the 12A-13B Fuel Delivery Delema
It's called a Catch Can...
I used it in My Idea for awhile until I found a Better Way.
There where many Posters here over the Years that made it go Away for Ever.
It's called do a search under LUNG MUSTARD or Lung Butter!!!
I know it hurts, (I Have Been There)......Ouch
On a better note {As soon I find the Best Way To Make It Work} By Me
Give me a couple of days to find it and I will Post It.
7 Engines later and it always worked.
Stop Barfing Down The Oil Spout
sgieldon
steve
05-30-08, 10:34 AM
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I have been having trouble with getting the car to idle below 1200 RPM. There is no vacuum leaks and I have a FPR. It almost seems like something is binding on the carb. I tried disconnecting the the throtle cable to see if that was it and it is not. If I loosen the idle screw to lower the idle it just goes compleately loose with no change in idle. Does anyone have any ideas? I'm going to try removing the choke today and see if that is the problem. The choke had caused the problem in the past and would not let the car go below 2k. There does not seem to be a problem on the side of the carb where the cable goes in. Has anyone ever had this problem?
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