1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Rats nest removed, RB intake and exhuast installed... no imrovement?

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Old 03-22-20 | 04:15 PM
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Zenobia K'ael's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
If you take that off your secondaries won't open when they're supposed to. I drove my car all the way from Providence RI to Philly when I bought it and didn't know why it didn't have any power on the highway. Looked at it more closely the next morning and found that little thingy hanging loose. Put it back on and Vroom Vroom, burnout time!
Took mine off and... Vroom vroom. Its a fuckton better. It wasnt all the way down when i looked at it at first today. Is there way to properly set it?
Old 03-22-20 | 04:27 PM
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I just edited my post and added a pic of where mine worked best.
Old 03-22-20 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxwedge
I just edited my post and added a pic of where mine worked best.
O_O has mine been in the wrong place this whole time! Ever since ive owned it its been UNDER that lever pushing up it! No wonder! XD

Last edited by Zenobia K'ael; 03-22-20 at 05:23 PM.
Old 03-22-20 | 06:00 PM
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That thing is an emergency return spring. If your main return spring fails, engine vacuum can pull the primaries open. The emergency spring is there to prevent that.
Old 04-04-20 | 04:20 PM
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Ok so i put my spring back in the right place and it helped for awhile. but now its back to its BS again albiet to a lesser degree. (64mph on the benchmark instead of the 66.5 when "everything is working as it shoud?") and its staying at the 64mph and i can definetly feel that its not opening the secondaries as much as it should. so a couple of questions.

1. Is there a way to tell if they ARE working as they should and im misdiagnosing it? like an official diagnosis guide for them?

2. after i check to see if that is the problem i plan i doing mechanical secondaries.. to hell with this crap... so my question is, does anyone have any pictures of the "arms" they added the linkage too? also a picture or even better, guide on what to do with te accelerator pump? where is it?
Old 04-05-20 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Zenobia K'ael
1. Is there a way to tell if they ARE working as they should and im misdiagnosing it? like an official diagnosis guide for them?
Official? you would disable them and make a run/drive. with all the cars i've had you can feel them open, so i'm not sure exactly how you would do it. possibly you go the other way, and take the spring out of the vacuum diaphragm and then the secondaries basically can open all the time
Old 04-05-20 | 10:31 AM
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There is valuable information here Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals that you can download if you haven't already done so.
Old 04-05-20 | 02:25 PM
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The secondary linkage can be wire-tied together for testing purposes. Can be easily removed. I think a small ziptie might also work.

Study the way it works and the solution will present itself. In other words, it would take a thousand words to describe a picture, and I'm too lazy to go out and snap one for you.
Old 04-06-20 | 10:04 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Zenobia K'ael
Ok so i put my spring back in the right place and it helped for awhile. but now its back to its BS again albiet to a lesser degree. (64mph on the benchmark instead of the 66.5 when "everything is working as it shoud?") and its staying at the 64mph and i can definetly feel that its not opening the secondaries as much as it should. so a couple of questions.

1. Is there a way to tell if they ARE working as they should and im misdiagnosing it? like an official diagnosis guide for them?

2. after i check to see if that is the problem i plan i doing mechanical secondaries.. to hell with this crap... so my question is, does anyone have any pictures of the "arms" they added the linkage too? also a picture or even better, guide on what to do with te accelerator pump? where is it?
Did it pop off again?
Old 04-06-20 | 12:48 PM
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If it popped off again, you might be able to adjust it some. It is on a threaded rod. Try unscrewing it a bit, to reduce tension on the bracket. Just turn it counterclockwise by a few threads and put it back in place.
Old 04-06-20 | 07:51 PM
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Its still there, i took my intake manifold off and

A: completly forgot coolant runs through it... opps.
B: answered a question ive had before about where the coolant on TOP of my intake manifold was coming from, i think those o rings tore inside and were spewing coolant into places it shouldn't be and it pooled on top of the intake manifold

I did this to remove the flap on the shutter valve after the screws decided coming out the easy way wasnt going to happen. once i get the new gasket made and find a way to take that trouble some flap off i will do another trial run and see if it helps, i did all this becuase i noticed its natural resting position was keeping it at around 80% open with the shutter valve's vacuum capped off.

In regards to posts above, i can feel them open, but it doesnt seem to be giving me the ompf it should, when the carb decides to work right you can FEEL it! it actually figures out WTF torque is and delivers some in the form of Butt dyno numbers.
Old 04-07-20 | 11:16 AM
  #37  
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In regards to the mechanical secondaries and 'extra arms bit' yes, that is one way to do it, although it's definitely not the most common or straightforward. Usually people go either the welding route (to permanently affix it) or the wire-tie route (more often temporary although it doesn't have to be). I went the unnecessary route of making a new arm for the whole thing that adds a throttle stop as well as arms for mechanical secondaries. Reason was I didn't trust a wire-tie and didn't want to have it welded forever, in addition to the fact that I needed/wanted a throttle stop anyway and was already making other new linkages.

I also get your 'wow, this actually feels quick for once' situation; I've been chasing it for so long that I finally think I know what it is, but that's not for here or now - it's not a carb issue, I'll say that. Totally understand how annoying it can be when the car underperforms 90% of the time and then taunts you every once in a while with some good power.

Have you checked the secondary vacuum diaphragm? To me that seems like something that should have been checked a while ago if it hasn't already - just don't tear it during removal, I believe they are nla but don't quote me. Otherwise try the wire-tie mech secondaries and see if that changes things, although if you're timing stuff try to open them around 4k to simulate their natural opening time. The car might actually be slower overall with mech secondaries if you use them as though they are vacuum operated because the primaries won't be fully opened until you have the secondaries fully open too, just something to keep in mind.


Old 04-16-20 | 11:15 PM
  #38  
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Ok, update. I removed that POS shutter valve and it is behaving MUCH better. got a new best on my benchmakr at 67

Just posting this as an update for future thread readers.
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