vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

There's more to the science of weather than north/south, which can explain why some spots south of the boarder actually get colder than some spots north of the boarder (and vice versa with heat).

But yeah, last summer I biked to a friend's place in 80+ degree weather with heatstroke warnings in effect....

It does get hot here (like it also gets cold), just not mexico hot.

Jon

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Hmm...

Well it's now a good news/bad news thing.

I got the fan mounted to the rad
and the rad mounted in the car

But I apply 12v + and - to the fan directly from the fully charged battery and get.... nothing.

I'm going to try again tomorrow, I only tried quick before I packed up for the day, but it was disturbing to say the least. Especially after the 2 hrs it took me to get the thing mounted (I used a strip of weld steel cut into small lengths and drilled.. took forever). I *know* it worked when I bought it from another forum member over a year ago, but through two moves and a year of lying in my room, it has ceased working.

If it doesn't work I'll need to source a new one pronto. Anybody have any idea which kind of fan this is? There are no distinguishing markings on it that I can make out, and the guy I bought it from doesn't know.

Or does anyone know of a good 16" fan that sucks a TON of air, and wouldn't be hard to mount?

Jon

Edit: and for your viewing enjoyment, a pic of the fruit of today's labour.

rxtory

It looks good in there, I hope you get it workin tomorrow

$100T2

iTrader: (1)

The carpet is ******* ugly though.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

my tarus fan does the job really nice keeps the temp at 1/4 constent no mater what driving conditions i just wired a relay to the +on the trailing coil cause i forgot to turn my switch on a few times and almost cooked my baby lol

its looking really nice in there jon how many hours have you spent cleaning?did you hire a mexican?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Yup.. poop-brown indoor/outdoor carpeting layed on the cement in the basement before we ever moved in. The basement itself is finished, but it could really use some sort of floating floor to stop the floor from being so COLD.

Other potential setbacks for tomorrow still range back to that tube I broke. I've now received the new tube (it's in awesome shape) but I realized that I actually took the threaded connector right out of the engine! So the threaded connector is still attached to the part of the cut-off tube and I can't get them apart.

They're spending the night soaking in liquid wrench to loosen them up for morning. Hopefully then I'll be able to reinstall the threaded connector, install the tube, and get that beehive bolted securely into place.

If this one won't come apart from the rusty tube, I've got another one on the spare 12a in the background (it was a '79 with a front mount, but the connector is the same). I partially stripped it trying to get that one out today. Both of them seem to want to evade my attempts at removal. And the new tube was just the tube part, since Matt needed the connector when he went front-mount!

Hopefully I'll get one of the two

Jon

mr_ouija

This looks close...

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Also there's this one
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Wow, you found my fan, and in reading the pdf file on its installation, I also found the tempswitch that came with it!

And now I know how to properly wire the tempswitch!

Though according to the instructions, it should have powered right up the way I hooked it to the battery.

Well at least now I know where to get an exact replacement so that I don't have to make new mounting brackets

Jon

rOtAryIsbEttEr

i did like mr. kentsu and got the fan out of an 86 toyota mr2. it was kinda rusty so i sanded it down, painted everything black and it took me about fifteen mins to drill some holes in it and mount to the rad and about 30 mins to wire it up. With the flick of a switch it kept me runnin cool on a 95*day(yea, its hot down here in the south already)

mr_ouija

After you posted this thread initially, and since I was looking for a decent flowing E-Fan anyhow so your thread prompted me to start looking around. Those two looked close, and <$100 they looked good to me.

Whanrow

I fully admit to being unfamiliar with the e-fans, but is there any chance there's a relay involved here somewhere? Or is there simply a + an - wire and that's it.

On another subject, your underhood pic is the first time I've had a real good look at a beehive. Considering that when my car is warm I can't hold my hand on my factory front mount, I can't even imagine how hot that thing must get. I just can't see it doing anything close to the cooling job of a front mount.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Remember it's a *water to oil* exchanger.

Water can convey heat much more efficiently than air, it's thermodynamics.

However, the problem happens when the water isn't cool enough for any of the oil's heat to seep into it. Then you've got a problem.

The stock beehive cooler allows the exchange of heat from the oil into the water, which then gets cooled by the larger rad. So really, indirectly the oil gets cooled by the radiator, since it gives off all its heat to the water (which tends to be a little cooler than the oil).

It's not the *best* system in the world, but it is fine for stock. Looks can be deceiving. Dropping one tiny little ice cube into your boiling hot soup cools it a helluva lot quicker than 15 cfm worth of a desk fan does. The fan is bigger, and blows cubic *feet* of air, but because air is such a poor conductor of heat (compared to water) it doesn't do it as fast.

Yet if you were to look at the two, you'd think the fan would be quicker at cooling your soup.

Jon

(edit : for you chemist nuts out there, yes I *know* that the state change of water from a solid to a liquid absorbs more energy than just 0 degree C water would, but the idea holds)

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

And to answer your relay question, there are two ways you can hook up the fan.

There are only 2 wires coming out of the fan. Black (ground) and Blue (positive 12v).

You can
- Hook it to a switched 12v source (like a switch in the car or your car's switched ignition source)
or
- Hook it to a thermoswitch, which turns on-off the 12v source depending on the temperature of the water flowing through the upper coolant hose.

I'm opting for the second one, but to *test* the fan, you need only connect the wires
to a 12v source for a short period of time to see if it spins.

Here's the instruction sheet for the fan, from the first of the two summitracing sites shown above. It'll show you how to wire it up. Very simple.

http://static.summitracing.com/globa...ne%282%291.pdf

Jon

iceblue

hmm I just finished my fan shroud and two 10in fans setup. I was waiting for my thermostat controller to come in to take pics. So I will get pics tomarrow or something.

Hot to cold – The more distance the two property’s are away from each other the faster the molecular structure reacts to changing conditions compared to; two that were closer together.

For instance a cup of hot coffee in Alaska would freeze far faster then a room temp cup of coffer.

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

Every Canadian knows that one. You use warm/hot water when resurfacing your home rink, not cold.

Which of course means that since the temps of the water and oil aren't that far apart, the system is less efficient than it could be.

Jon

Whanrow

That's kind of what I was getting at. Its being cooled by something (water) that isn't all that much (relatively) cooler than the oil itself, therefor can't be as efficient as what is essentially a 2 core radiator thats about 10" x 24". Don't worry, I remember the high school chemistry and how many calories water absorbs lol.

The suggestion about the relay was simply because you've been working hard and very steady this week, with a few bad surprises thrown in. That's a perfect scenario for overlooking something simple. Ask me how I know....actually don't! Ok, I'll share the stupid award for today so everybody can have a laugh - I toasted my battery (which was "iffy" anyway) by leaving my new driving lights on. I ain't as young as I used to be, having to push start by myself wasn't easy!

bliffle

I don't understand why people convert from the OEM clutch fan. I am running 4 rotaries right now, 2 12As and 2 13Bs, and none of them overheat and none of them have slow warmup. I have, however, replaced 3 radiators, most of the rad hoses and heater hoses, and have installed OEM rad caps in all. I have an electronic timing light and have used it on each vehicle.

Though the weather is mild here, the very first FB I drove was a rental about 1980 with auto transmission in Savannah and Hilton Head Island. In July! It was blazing hot and the AC ran continuously and I never had an overheating problem.

blwfly

iTrader: (4)

i have a good reson
my clutch fan had sezed and was hard on the car at idel and creating a hella noise like a tornado

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

wrong thread...
________________________

Kentetsu

Those little fans really move some major air, don't they? I used a $18.00 adjustable thermostat controller when I installed mine and it works great (autozone). Couldn't ask for an easier installation either, eh?

vipernicus42

iTrader: (4)

I removed the clutch fan on mine not because of overheating concerns (on the contrary, even with the half-gutted rad the car still ran cool with it), but rather because I find it cleans up the front of the engine bay quite nicely and I knew my clutch would probably die at some point. Now if the clutch siezed shut, the fan would always be on and cooling wouldn't be a problem, though I want to be able to hear my engine at idle, not the fan. If it siezed open, cooling *might* become a problem, however doubtful.

Yeah, I know, that's not alot of reason to switch (for looks and preventative maintenance) but it works for me, and the e-fan was cheap. I kept the old fan and shroud so I can always go back.

Jon

rOtAryIsbEttEr

no i dont think you could. i paid 40 for mine but i think its worth every penny. i wired mine up to a switch and turn it on when im <30mph or so

iceblue

Ahh all my cameras broke other day and I am trying to get to my gf's for the weekend and borrow her camera to take pics for you like I said. However the car is eating coolant and I cant seem to seal it good enough "intake mani orings" so soon as I can get that working im off.

aussiesmg

iTrader: (1)

Nothing personal there...lol

Just compared to my home town which has Summer days in the 115 to 120 mark and nights over 90 Canada doesn't seem hot to me.

Hell our coldest day in Winter might be 60.

I ran my RX3 with 13B BP, 3 core, and no shroud, with an electric fan, but wouldn't let it idle at the race track, usually pushed it onto the start line, was fine at speed but didn't trust it without flowing air. This was no street car either.

Steve

iceblue

Got mine runing drove it around and it is staying cool and doing good. Besides the float getting stuck and fixing that a few min ago. Taking the 60mi trip to see my gf and get pics.

Oh yea I converted because my clutch fan was engauged all the time and noisy as crap.